Is it possible to switch a side mount 8N block to a front mount setup?

[steveh1155]

Excellent! You got the knack.
Rebuilding the oil pump too?
Cutting valve seats?

Yeah, I've thought about the oil pump. When I grabbed the gear on the pump, I noticed it has a slight wobble. I'll have to take it apart to see if I have the large or the small gear, I think the rebuild kits are different somehow. As to the valves, I have a Neway cutter with the 3 angled cutters, so I'll cut the valve seats. Looks like plenty of meat left on the seat inserts.

 

[soaked]

Yeah, I've thought about the oil pump. When I grabbed the gear on the pump, I noticed it has a slight wobble. I'll have to take it apart to see if I have the large or the small gear, I think the rebuild kits are different somehow. As to the valves, I have a Neway cutter with the 3 angled cutters, so I'll cut the valve seats. Looks like plenty of meat left on the seat inserts.

If getting new gears, make sure the new ones are not too short.
Early pumps have 9/16" gears, and later 8ns have 3/4" gears.( actual dimension should be .724"-.725")

Neway=is the goodway.

Took a look at two sidemount flywheels.
Noticed that a diameter going through two bolt holes, happens to pass between one set of clutch mounting bolts. ( same on both ) Measures 8 ° on the stamped timing marks. So its 7/8" back to 0°, and 1 1/4" to the 20° mark.
The red tube caps mark the two dowel peg locations. Steel ruler is balanced on the 8° line, centered on the 12 and 6 oclock bolts, and pilot hole.
The sidemount is on the right, and it appears to me, that the unmarked front mount flywheel on the left shares the same 8°diameter.

Maybe this can corroborate a tdc reading on yours.

 

[R Geiger]

I have a 8N with a industrial engine in it. It is a side dist block with a magneto ignition system.

 

[Kirk -NJ]

Converted this '48 8n from front mount to side mount so don't see why you couldn't do the reverse. More trouble than it's worth IMO

 

[steveh1155]

Since I'm swapping the camshaft out of the front mount engine into the newer side mount engine to accommodate the front mount distributor, does this require align boring the camshaft on the new block? I think I'm okay on the crankshaft since its original to that side mount engine and all the bearing shells looked to still be in decent shape.

 

[soaked]

Since I'm swapping the camshaft out of the front mount engine into the newer side mount engine to accommodate the front mount distributor, does this require align boring the camshaft on the new block? I think I'm okay on the crankshaft since its original to that side mount engine and all the bearing shells looked to still be in decent shape.

Don't need to align bore/hone the block for a cam swap.
Ive heard of guys machining the camshaft bearing surface on the BLOCK, then adding replaceable bearing shells...
When an oil pump body gets ruined, putting in a new pump/main cap does require an align bore/hone job.

 

[steveh1155]

Progress finally made. It took me all of just a few minutes to unbolt the engine from the bell housing. I was planning on getting a new clutch kit and I see the one available on this website is about the cheapest available anywhere. Anybody ever have any issues with the kits from YT? The old pressure plate with that red paint makes me think it an OEM Ford part, but I'm guessing those aren't available anywhere anymore. One difference I see is that the old pressure plate has adjustable fingers that screw in and out whereas the replacement doesn't, at least not the 9-inch clutch.

 

[8NChris]

The way things are with parts these days you might be better off having your clutch rebuilt. Set up a dial caliper on the block where you can rotate the three fingers underneath it to set for a smooth operating clutch.

 

[soaked]

The last clutch I bought here worked just fine. Was about 3 years ago. Didnt have adjustable finger bolts.
Just a suggestion, dont change the eyebolt screw ajustment on the outside of the belhousing. Doing so could help the new clutch to not fully release. Wait to see if it works.
Edit:
Take note of the clutch hub before taking apart. If the clutch disk is put in backwards. The clutch wont release. Take pics before and after.

 

[steveh1155]

I got the clutch and flywheel off yesterday, that flywheel is heavy! I noticed the flywheel surface is smooth, no grooves, however the flywheel surface has a mirror finish on it. Not going to have it ground, I don't think it needs it, but I am thinking maybe it's best to take some emery cloth and get rid of that shiny glaze. I found a source for the clutch pressure plates with the adjustable fingers and after I get it mounted, I'll take the suggestion of using my dial indicator with a mag base and verify they're all at the same height.

 

[Kondoge]

I got the clutch and flywheel off yesterday, that flywheel is heavy! I noticed the flywheel surface is smooth, no grooves, however the flywheel surface has a mirror finish on it. Not going to have it ground, I don't think it needs it, but I am thinking maybe it's best to take some emery cloth and get rid of that shiny glaze. I found a source for the clutch pressure plates with the adjustable fingers and after I get it mounted, I'll take the suggestion of using my dial indicator with a mag base and verify they're all at the same height.

if shiny is bad I'm starting to think my bellhousing full of chunks of flaking rust and goop ain't that bad.

 

[steveh1155]

I finally got the engine re-assembled and all the parts from the old front mount engine fit on this newer side mount block just fine! The only differences I can see between the two are that the side mount block has the oil fill tube a few inches further back, and there are the two studs on the block for the generator mount. Neither of these differences interfere with anything. I'm reusing the original cylinder head so the oil filter canister will be in its original location the way it was on the older front mount block, that way all the old oil lines will be the correct length. I'm also reusing the original generator, VR, front timing cover and all the old front mount ignition parts.

It's hard to tell if the input shaft seal back toward the transmission is seeping a little or not. How much of a pain is it to change that seal and gasket?

 

[steveh1155]

I have everything put back together and hooked up the battery. I spun the engine with the starter a few times to check if there was any oil pressure and after 5 or 6 seconds the gauge was reading about 5 -8 lbs with just the starter spinning the motor. Doesn't seem like much but I'm thinking any oil pressure at all at such a low RPM is probably normal. Two issues I have to address before actually firing it up. I noticed an oil leak at the oil pressure gauge adapter fitting. It's a brass fitting and split in 2 places. Ugh, another week for that part to arrive. Also, water leaking at where the pump is mounted to the block. I should have known better than to depend on an almost wispy thin gasket provided in the kit to seal that! I'll fix it with some RTV. Other than that, I think the bulk of the work is behind me now. Ha, plenty of wood here to knock on!

 

[Kondoge]

I have everything put back together and hooked up the battery. I spun the engine with the starter a few times to check if there was any oil pressure and after 5 or 6 seconds the gauge was reading about 5 -8 lbs with just the starter spinning the motor. Doesn't seem like much but I'm thinking any oil pressure at all at such a low RPM is probably normal. Two issues I have to address before actually firing it up. I noticed an oil leak at the oil pressure gauge adapter fitting. It's a brass fitting and split in 2 places. Ugh, another week for that part to arrive. Also, water leaking at where the pump is mounted to the block. I should have known better than to depend on an almost wispy thin gasket provided in the kit to seal that! I'll fix it with some RTV. Other than that, I think the bulk of the work is behind me now. Ha, plenty of wood here to knock on!

OOH boy 5-8psi ain't bad at all for starter cranking speed now you wanna talk about low, mines low mine can barely make 20psi at full wide open throttle, and the gauge drops below 5 at hot idle. these engines are fine on low oil pressure, if you want more rebuild the oil pump or use a thicker oil Please don't RTV stuff, it is just gonna be a pain later, use gasket sealer and a good gasket. RTV has on the same teir of redneck fixing as duct tape and bailing wire I swear. BTW good job you've now got quite a story to share on that engine, repair stories make good conversation starter.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I have everything put back together and hooked up the battery. I spun the engine with the starter a few times to check if there was any oil pressure and after 5 or 6 seconds the gauge was reading about 5 -8 lbs with just the starter spinning the motor. Doesn't seem like much but I'm thinking any oil pressure at all at such a low RPM is probably normal. Two issues I have to address before actually firing it up. I noticed an oil leak at the oil pressure gauge adapter fitting. It's a brass fitting and split in 2 places. Ugh, another week for that part to arrive. Also, water leaking at where the pump is mounted to the block. I should have known better than to depend on an almost wispy thin gasket provided in the kit to seal that! I'll fix it with some RTV. Other than that, I think the bulk of the work is behind me now. Ha, plenty of wood here to knock on!

View attachment 160682View attachment 160683

Those two water pump gaskets pump to plate, plate to block have got me also, apply a very lite coat of RTV to both sides.

 

[Hobo,NC]

OOH boy 5-8psi ain't bad at all for starter cranking speed now you wanna talk about low, mines low mine can barely make 20psi at full wide open throttle, and the gauge drops below 5 at hot idle. these engines are fine on low oil pressure, if you want more rebuild the oil pump or use a thicker oil Please don't RTV stuff, it is just gonna be a pain later, use gasket sealer and a good gasket. RTV has on the same teir of redneck fixing as duct tape and bailing wire I swear. BTW good job you've now got quite a story to share on that engine, repair stories make good conversation starter.

The sooner you get some of what you said out of yer gourd the better you will be.

RTV is here to stay learn how to apply it.
Unless he's using pizz for oil the thicker oil theory will last about 5 min.

 

[Kondoge]

The sooner you get some of what you said out of yer gourd the better you will be.

RTV is here to stay learn how to apply it.
Unless he's using pizz for oil the thicker oil theory will last about 5 min.

Fair enough when applied right RTV stays on just as any gasket sealer, I didn’t say RTV was horrible I was saying it’s frequently found on customer states or seen in the hands of a redneck hence “it’s on the same level as duct tape and bailing wire”

 

[Kondoge]

Can I point out the sheer amount of views this post has..

 

[Jim.ME]

Can I point out the sheer amount of views this post has..

It might be correct but there have been questions as to the accuracy of the view counter. web bots doing searches may be a number of those views, not real people reading the thread.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Goober and his gaskets sealer
What ACDELCO has to say about RTV and gasket paper on a water pump.