Bushing Adapter for Drawbar

mml373

Member
Maybe an easy question...

I have a Cat II tractor (Workmaster 120) that may have to help pull hay duty, but my balers are Cat I units (old Massey 12s). Is there an adapter that would fit my Cat II drawbar hole to reduce it down to more of a Cat I diameter? I don't want these Cat I pins ovaling out my drawbar hole. Thank you.
 
I’ve seen bushings for the big 300+ tractors for such a thing. I suppose they are out there for your application.

I’ll be the first of many to say it isn’t really going to be a problem in your lifetime, but maybe it will help with the rocking of a baler so might be worth looking into.
 
I’ve seen bushings for the big 300+ tractors for such a thing. I suppose they are out there for your application.

I’ll be the first of many to say it isn’t really going to be a problem in your lifetime, but maybe it will help with the rocking of a baler so might be worth looking into.
Heh. My Cat 1 tractor and these old implements already are showing signs of ovaling. Mainly just prefer a good, tight fit for the reason you mention. Help stabilize and reduce extra motion of equipment.
 
This is the stuff I see. Not sure I see a smaller version.

There was something for some JD models from Worthington but appears to be discontinued.

Paul
 

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I've never seen anyone try to bush the hole in a drawbar. You'd have to bale for years to see any wear in the hole.
AaronSEIA
Darn the German in me wanting everything to be perfect.

My primary tractor and implements are pushing 70 years old. Ovaled. The new tractor...not so much.
 
A Cat one to two top link bushing will work. As said,for occasional use you wont live long enough to get any wear.I converted my baler(CIH 8530) to a ball hitch several years ago. There is zero slop and no movement. The only way to go!
 
Maybe an easy question...

I have a Cat II tractor (Workmaster 120) that may have to help pull hay duty, but my balers are Cat I units (old Massey 12s). Is there an adapter that would fit my Cat II drawbar hole to reduce it down to more of a Cat I diameter? I don't want these Cat I pins ovaling out my drawbar hole. Thank you.
I had no idea fixed drawbars had category ratings? Had initially thought you were talking about a drawbar that goes between the lift arms.

Which got me to thinking.....

You could get one of those drawbars in CAT I & use the CAT II adapter bushings to keep everything tight in their holes. Just adjust your stabilizer arms to prevent swaying & check & correct PTO length & height on the baler if necessary.

Mike
 
A Cat one to two top link bushing will work. As said,for occasional use you wont live long enough to get any wear.I converted my baler(CIH 8530) to a ball hitch several years ago. There is zero slop and no movement. The only way to go!
Ha. You have me thinking about doing the same...
 
Sending this picture. Looks to me like maybe the big hole is a for a hitch ball. The 2 smaller holes are for implements (?) but they're so far up my baler hole won't reach them due to the configuration of the baler connection. Probably missing something simple...I never have used the "big tractor" for any hay work...trying to justify NOT spending money on a second smaller open-station tractor.

db.jpeg
 
I’ve never given the drawbar pin much consideration. If the pin goes through the hole in the tractor and the implement I’m good to go. You don’t want it too tight, you want some give there so it doesn’t bind going over rough ground.

I’m sure your 70 year old tractors do have some drawbar wear, they are 70 years old. It takes a very long time to oval a drawbar, even if the pin doesn’t fit perfect.
 
Sending this picture. Looks to me like maybe the big hole is a for a hitch ball. The 2 smaller holes are for implements (?) but they're so far up my baler hole won't reach them due to the configuration of the baler connection.View attachment 157197
You are over thinking it, just pin it to the end hole and go to work.
The 2 smaller holes on the drawbar are for a “hammer strap”, a piece of steel that bolts there to have a clevis type hitch on the tractor.
 
You are over thinking it, just pin it to the end hole and go to work.
The 2 smaller holes on the drawbar are for a “hammer strap”, a piece of steel that bolts there to have a clevis type hitch on the tractor.
This hit the nail on the head...found a YouTube video about this, searching for "hammer strap" and learned a lot there. Namely, you want some slop in the mix so that things don't break if you have a hilly/uneven field.

Thanks, guys. Newbie stuff...
 
When I was a teen ager dad sent me to the neighbor with the manure spreader, for the manure hauling party. We had 3-4 neighbors with beef pack manure piles, hairless them out in august on oats or wheat stubble. Went faster and more fun if the owner leaded, and the other 3 neighbors hauled.

I used a big pin so I wouldn’t break one, you know manure spreaders are heavy when loaded. This was an IHC 300 and Minnesota brand manure spreader back in the day.

Went over the bridge on the ditch and the hitch broke off. The pin was too tight. No room to flex.

Had to drag my tail home that day. Anther learning lesson.

Don’t over think it too much.

The extra holes are for a hammer strap, as mentioned.

If you really need a tight fit hitch, one company called BullPull makes bolt and weld on hitches that have a socket like a 3pt hitch to convert your implement, it makes a tight hitch but the ball allows movement.

Paul
 
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