9n retrofitting o-ring for stand pipe between lift lid and housing

Back history. I have a ford 9n i restored and during the restoration i set it up with a front engine driven hydraulic pump, pulled the eccentrics and pistons out of my stock pump so it would just operate as a control valve for the 3 point, ran two sets of Aux hydraulics front and to the rear, ( can operate my hydraulic snow plow and hydraulic top link) connected everything with stainless hard lines and included a check valve to prevent bleed down. the system has its original pressure relief valve blocked off and i use the adjustable one built into my spool valves for the Aux hydraulics. i made a few posts on here while working the bugs out and i have. the system has been working flawlessly. the Front pump is capable of 11gpm controlled by an adjustable flow bypass valve. the pump can also handle excessive pressures after i installed a reinforced high pressure seal and a backing washer to prevent pressure blow out.

this gives me full live hydraulics everywhere and and an independent PTO i regulaley lift 1200lb loggs the far end of my boom pole. using my plow set up as a counter weight.

This all worked great untill the other day i was installing a fence and was on my 12th hole and my Auger got stuck on some shale. couldn't back it out with a pipe wrench it was stuck hard.

So i did the only thing i could think of which was to crank my hydraulic bypass valve to full flow and close my pressure release valve. had the front end of the tractor in the air with its snow plow setup attached attached i use for a counter weight and was bouncing the dammed thing up and down. I figured ill either get it out or ill break something doing so.

Well i did both; auger popped out of the ground pulling up the shale with it and at the same time i blew the top lid gasket at the hydraulic stand pipe.

Ive got it torn down and the lift lid off and a new paper gasket on the way but im thinking maybe i should counter bore for a dowery hydraulic sealing washer at top lid, the lift cylinder, and the pump housing to lower part of the stand pipe to make sure she can handle higher pressures if needed.

Has anyone done this before and if so did you go about it a different way than using a dowery washer?

Thanks,
Derek G.
 
Hi Derek,
Glad your 9 has been running good!
I gave up on gravity down 3 point angers in rocky, or hardpan soils. Dug with 1 ft wide backhoe bucket on L48 Kubota.

Maybe its a good thing only the gasket blew, and maybe that blowing is a lesser of evils.😀
Guys have broke the lift piston just from carrying a heavy 3 point load, then hitting a bump, and bouncing the load. The dog bone pushes a hole right through the head of the piston.
Look at the "Erratic Lifting" section FO-4 Manual
9262.jpg

John
 
Hi Derek,
Glad your 9 has been running good!
I gave up on gravity down 3 point angers in rocky, or hardpan soils. Dug with 1 ft wide backhoe bucket on L48 Kubota.

Maybe its a good thing only the gasket blew, and maybe that blowing is a lesser of evils.😀
Guys have broke the lift piston just from carrying a heavy 3 point load, then hitting a bump, and bouncing the load. The dog bone pushes a hole right through the head of the piston.
Look at the "Erratic Lifting" section FO-4 Manual
View attachment 157253
John
John, thanks for that wish i had it when i was trouble shooting it a few mounths ago.

This time around she was working fine and lifting fine she would just lift the tractor becouse of how stuck j had the auger. I sualy set the realf so that it will bipass to tank right as the tractor front end started getting light / lifts with the plow on it. But for this case incranked that shut sl get as much lift as possible.
 
Hundred series uses a gasket and a o-ring, you would need the top cover machined to fit the o-ring to.
Yea ill probably get a counterbor with a smoth pilot and boor a recess for the dowery washer to fit. The top lid is thin their so ill probaly set up a mag drill on a 1/2” steel plate and mechine the housing for it and the pump i think theirs enough meet to mechine the pump housing itself.i figure i have it apart any ways might as well do it now.
 
Yea ill probably get a counterbor with a smoth pilot and boor a recess for the dowery washer to fit. The top lid is thin their so ill probaly set up a mag drill on a 1/2” steel plate and mechine the housing for it and the pump i think theirs enough meet to mechine the pump housing itself.i figure i have it apart any ways might as well do it now.
Thats not an application for a dowty washer.. Use a .750 x .080 counterbore for a standard -113 o-ring.

Or better - leave things alone.

TOH
 
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