How to add gear oil to steering case if steering wheel is welded to the steering column?

[icehose]

I was recently gifted a 1952 Ford 8N, Ser. # 410,998, that was last started more than 30 years ago. Biggest issue, so far, was the 6"-8" steering wheel backlash. Pulled left-side sector cover plate of the steering gear housing, expecting a slosh of old gear oil ... got about 1/2 cup of greasy water, no oil, and some nasty brownish sludge. Managed to flush out the sludge with mineral spirits. Reinstalled the cover plate (after figuring out how to reconnect the sector adjusting screw to the notch in the gear shaft) and adjusted the backlast down to an acceptable 1"-2" per the FO-4 manual.

Now, to fill the gear box with good Amsoil 85-90 gear lube - Oops ... cannot find the small Fillister-head screw supposedly located somewhere in the upper region of the steering column "tube and cover" (8N3509B?). In part, access to the steering tube appears to require removal of the instrument panel (and, perhaps, the "Support assy, Instrument Panel to Hood"). Unfortunately, at some now-indeterminable time in the long distant past, "someone" managed to lose the steering wheel cap nut, and, rather than find a suitable replacement nut, "someone" decided to just WELD the steering wheel to the steering shaft! Since the steering wheel cannot be pulled, the instrument panel cannot be pulled; since that panel cannot be pulled, there is no obvious way (at least to me) to fill the steering housing with gear oil.

Of course, I do realize that one option is simply to grind off the weld sufficiently so as to enable me to pull the steering wheel. As far as I can determine, that will require me to replace the entire steering column, including replacing bearings/seals/shims, and, perhaps, rebuilding the ball nut assembly. I am hoping that someone out there in forum-land knows of some esoteric trick to get that oil into that housing without incurring all of that expense and time.

 

[soaked]

Hi icehose, welcome aboard!
Bummer the wheel is welded on.
First 52 serial # is 442035
Filister screw was added @ 452913
Looks like yours is a 51
Filister is here

This is the bolt to take out to fill

Its slow to fill without the filister taken out, cause there isn't any other vent.
At the end of the bolt threads is a passage straight down to the sump that may need a bent wire to poke open due to grime/crud buildup.
John

 

[jdeere562]

Cornhead grease? Local JD dealer would have that.

 

[Tgrasher]

Welcome to YT, you will find a variety of help/opinions from a group who also have suffered from quick fixes on tractors. I have filled steering sectors only to see the gear oil oozing out continually afterwards. The grease mentioned can be put in a grease gun and pumped into that small fill easily with a grease needle. This of course, can be your second option if the reservoir won't hold gear oil.

 

[icehose]

Hi icehose, welcome aboard!
Bummer the wheel is welded on.
First 52 serial # is 442035
Filister screw was added @ 452913
Looks like yours is a 51
Filister is here
View attachment 157502
This is the bolt to take out to fill
View attachment 157503
Its slow to fill without the filister taken out, cause there isn't any other vent.
At the end of the bolt threads is a passage straight down to the sump that may need a bent wire to poke open due to grime/crud buildup.
John

J: I've pulled the rusted-out Proofmeter (and already have a replacement from YT) and can see this bolt. I'll remove it and use a bore light to check for gunk blockage. I have several small squeeze bottles with long, bent spouts that, I hope, will allow me to sloooowly squirt in the 85-90 gear lube.

Any thoughts on drilling/tapping the steering column sleeve, and installing a screw like this fillister? I do realize that there would be a distinct possibility (probability?) of some of the cuttings dropping down into the tube, and, if so, potentially (further) damaging the steering shaft bearings/seals. However, in addition to facilitating oil filling, this "improvement" would allow the oil better to lubricate all of the bearings/seals tucked inside the tube.

Perhaps you can educate me on when the 8N's went to the unified center casings that can all be filled from the tranny fill port. When I drained the tranny section, I got only a quart or two of ugly, cloudy reddish slush. Then, when I pulled the drain plug of the hydraulic section, I got a great gush of very black oil, followed by the standard clear, reddish oil. However, when I pulled the drain plug just rearward of the hydraulic section drain plug, I got not a drop - I suspect that this may not be the plug of the PTO section; manual says it's directly under rhe diff - will check next time I get a bit of time to work on "Ole Chug".

And thanks for correcting the misinformation I had received on the vintage of this 8N. This means that I was only 5 years old when "she" was built.

 

[soaked]

Squeeze bottle tip opening can't be too big, and have to hold it clear of the bolt hole a bit so it can burp air.
This is the top part of a steering box, (just sitting on the rear end of the tractor) the blue line shows the passege

Drilling slow with gease on the bit may help catch spirals. Never tried to magnetize a drill bit, maybe work?
The rear of the trans has a hole to let fluid mingle with the center section.

The pipe plug drain under the rear end may need poking to clear a coagulated blob.

 

[icehose]

Thanks, again, for sharing your hard-earned wisdom! Your last hint is especially enlightening.

 

[soaked]

You're welcome!
There is a 9n 2n 8n forum here, and its true I have owned many 8ns, but learned from the gurus there, just passing it forward.

 

[560Dennis]

Use vacuum to fill it .

 

[icehose]

Sounds interesting, but not sure where/how to hook up the suction hose from my shopvac. Can you provide details?