John Deere 50 Rear Wheel adjustment

[JD60Standard]

I tried hauling my new model 50 today and found that the rear tread is set to wide to fit on my trailer. Could someone point me in the right direction about adjusting the rear tread width?

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Lift tractor.

Take the bolts out of the collets and put them in the threaded holes after soaking everything down with penetrating oil carefully snug them up and see if it comes apart(likely it won’t mine had some wax paper in from the last guy being nice) then a tube over the axle and smack with a sledge hammer to try to pop the collets off

And the same hammer to move it where you want grandpa used that hammer a lot they used to move the g wheels for plowing.

Be nice to the next poor guy and put the wax paper back where the collet grips

Oh and if you go for the 60 to get to 30 inch rows they will get there you do have to flip the tires from side to side.

 

[Paul_IN]

I tried hauling my new model 50 today

Fixingfarmer’s reply seems to be for a model B with splined axles.

Start with axle rotated with rack teeth up. Loosen the 3 larger bolts and back off 3/8 inch. Turn the 2 smaller bolts in. These are the push bolts that move the lower wheel wedge. Tighten them evenly, you may have to get them quite tight. If no luck in moving wedge try hitting the end of the axle a good sharp square lick with a heavy sledge. See if the push bolts turn a little more. Repeat the axle strike if needed. Once you get the wedge broke free then raise the tractor so tire is off ground. Turn push bolts in some more and if wedge is moving well you can tap it on inward by hitting the heads of the three larger bolts.

The cross bolt above the rack turns a pinion gear to move the wheel. It may be stuck or hard to turn. Hopefully you can turn it and move the wheel inward.

 

[Loosehandle]

I tried hauling my new model 50 today and found that the rear tread is set to wide to fit on my trailer. Could someone point me in the right direction about adjusting the rear tread width?

Are you already using the outer rim bevel?

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Fixingfarmer’s reply seems to be for a model B with splined axles.

Start with axle rotated with rack teeth up. Loosen the 3 larger bolts and back off 3/8 inch. Turn the 2 smaller bolts in. These are the push bolts that move the lower wheel wedge. Tighten them evenly, you may have to get them quite tight. If no luck in moving wedge try hitting the end of the axle a good sharp square lick with a heavy sledge. See if the push bolts turn a little more. Repeat the axle strike if needed. Once you get the wedge broke free then raise the tractor so tire is off ground. Turn push bolts in some more and if wedge is moving well you can tap it on inward by hitting the heads of the three larger bolts.

The cross bolt above the rack turns a pinion gear to move the wheel. It may be stuck or hard to turn. Hopefully you can turn it and move the wheel inward.

I had forgotten they had an adjustment rack on the number series you are correct I’m not sure why I think of new generation and beyond when you say that type of axle.

The change will be the tube method won’t work on most you can get an air hammer on that wedge or smack it directly is still best. A punch in the right spot. Grandpas method smacking out in the cast is still a last resort it will require a paint touch up and is not ideal but quite effective at loosening.

 

[Mark-Ia]

Might need to smack the end of the axle with a sledge hammer to help loosen things.

 

[Paul_IN]

Are you already using the outer rim bevel?

The photo in JD60Standard’s other post about his tractor shows the rims are already set for minimum tread so not possible to try and shift the rim if wedges won’t come loose.

 

[JD60Standard]

Thank you everyone for your advice, hopefully the wedge won’t be too stubborn