Adding a oil filter to my VAC

gmccool

Well-known Member
Location
Minden Iowa
My 1946 VAC doesn't have a oil filter but it has the plate on the side of the block where the filter bracket or base bolts to. I know where there is a VAC parts tractor that I could buy the oil filter base that bolts to the block. Surely there's more to the filter system than bolting the filter base on my block. Somebody fill me in on what's all involved on adding a filter to my tractor. Or am I worrying about something that I don't need to worry about. It's made it 80 years without a filter so I suppose it will run a while longer without a filter. Thanks Gerald
 
The oil filter system is the by-pass (shunt) type designed to bypass 10 - 15% of the oil pump capacity through the filter and directly back to the sump. Make sure the stem tube is still in there as they are just lightly pressed into the socket and can pull if the filter is cocked when removed and will end up in the garage along with the old filter. If the stem tube is missing post back and one of us will advise on making another one.

The filter will bypass some of the oil so when you get it installed idle the engine at op temp with the valve cover off. You need enough oil to lube the running gear and run off the top deck down through the pushrod holes to help lube the lifters, cam lobes, etc.

This is a list of filters that fit. List is old some may not all be available now. Last I bought was Wix on Amazon. I have seem them at Napa later which is a rebranded Wix filter.
Wix 57011, Napa 7011 (Wix), Baldwin T300-M, Fram C-159
 

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So if I'm seeing this diagram correctly I just bolt the oil filter base to my engine block and the internal oil pressure will force a certain amount of the oil threw the filter. No additional oil lines are needed. Correct?????????? My manual shows 10-12 lbs of oil pressure is normal. I'm running 11 lbs cold and 9-10 at operating temp.
 
kenbob I'm guessing the tube you are referring to is the tube that goes up from the filter base up threw the center of the oil filter. Correct??? The one in the third picture with the red arrow pointing to it. Correct???

Thanks for all your replies. This is the tractor that I told everyone about a couple weeks ago. My grand dad bought it new in 1946 and I had been following it for the last 35 years or so and finally got a chance to buy it.
 
Yes, that tube. I did the beginners mistake and threw it away with the oil filter, not realizing it was in there. It was easy enough to make a new tube out of copper. I am careful now when I change the filter.
 
The stem tube directs the incoming oil to the top of the filter. The media in the filter acts as the restriction that limits the oil volume passing through back to the crankcase. If the tube is missing oil just enters the filter base inlet and passes to the outlet back to the crankcase without going through the filter media. This is a by-pass system, oil enters the filter from the engine oil galley on the left side of the engine, passes through the filter and drops back into the crankcase. It is just to filter oil in the crankcase, not an inline filter.
That's why I wrote to check the quantity of oil to the top deck after installing a filter after not having one. The top deck is the end point of the oil pressure system. You're pump appears to be in decent shape, it will need to handle another 10-15% volume to support the filter and still maintain sufficient engine lubrication.
 
Thanks Joe (WA) That makes sense plus looking at the oil flow diagram I can see how it works. Are the push rods hollow or does the oil run down the side of the push rod to get down to the lifter.
 
Where I wrote [top deck oil run off down through the pushrod holes] I am referring to the the holes and tubes in the cylinder head that contain the pushrods. That's where the oil drains off the top of the head. As Klyde states the pushrod are not hollow.
 
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