Ford 841 Diesel Project

Well, it's time to get this tractor restored. The engine is disassembled and the cart tipped over and broke at least two pistons. I know nothing about the engine so I'm not sure where to start. I've done business with a local machine shop so a call to them is probably in order.
 

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Do you have a service manual? Below is a picture of the one I use. It does a very good job of going through the disassembly, assembly, inspection, specification limits, various procedures etc.
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Well, it's time to get this tractor restored. The engine is disassembled and the cart tipped over and broke at least two pistons. I know nothing about the engine so I'm not sure where to start. I've done business with a local machine shop so a call to them is probably in order.
Your tractor looks like about a 1960 841 , do you have a legible serial number to post , is the casting number on the right hand side of the block B9NN6015C ? There is two different Balancer Designs that are completely different as is the setup of them . I hope you have the later design . Do you have any engine building experience ? While these engine are not that complicated they do require special machine work to overcome common problems if you want them to survive .
 
Your tractor looks like about a 1960 841 , do you have a legible serial number to post , is the casting number on the right hand side of the block B9NN6015C ? There is two different Balancer Designs that are completely different as is the setup of them . I hope you have the later design . Do you have any engine building experience ? While these engine are not that complicated they do require special machine work to overcome common problems if you want them to survive .
 

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Where did you order the manual from? I need to get one and an operators manual but I want good ones that are printed well
I found a printed one on ebay, also there available as a download -

Farm Manuals Fast. I probably got the wrong one as I see a 641 series one also? Ford 611 621 631 641 651 661 671 Tractor Service Repair Shop Manual Gas & Diesel on ebay.​

 
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Where did you order the manual from? I need to get one and an operators manual but I want good ones that are printed well
If you're looking for the manual I depicted, which I believe is the "terminal" manual for the For Hundred, Hundred-One, and 4-CYL Thousand Series the part number may help which is 40060090. Search for Ford 40060090 which seems to bring up many choices.
 
Your tractor looks like about a 1960 841 , do you have a legible serial number to post , is the casting number on the right hand side of the block B9NN6015C ? There is two different Balancer Designs that are completely different as is the setup of them . I hope you have the later design . Do you have any engine building experience ? While these engine are not that complicated they do require special machine work to overcome common problems if you want them to survive .
B9NN6015B from the side of the block
 
I just dropped the engine off at the machine shop.
Hey Dreamer , What did you tell the machine shop to do ? 1) the block , the crank , all 4 rods and the head should be checked for cracks . 2) make sure the connecting rod bushings and the connecting rod bolts get replaced. 3) the crank , the rods , the pistons , the flywheel all should be balanced regardless of having the balancer on the engine . 4) the bearings in the balancer are all going to need to be replaced . 5) .0015 is the maximum clearance for the main and rod bearings . 6) make sure you use the later Gear Rotor oil pump not the old style gear to gear oil pump . 7) make sure the crankshaft bore is true and straight . 8) make both the head and the block get resurfaced . If you want it to last more than 200 hours that’s the minimum you need to do . These engine are notorious for breaking crankshafts because of cracking problems , the connecting rod bolts break because they are same ones used in gas engines and are not heavy duty enough for diesel usage . The crankshaft can be reground up to .020 NO MORE ! They were Tufftride coated at the factory . The coating is .027 to .030 thick . Once it’s gone it’s no good for use in a diesel anymore . Do it right the first time and spend the money otherwise you will be doing it again when it blows up .
 
Hey Dreamer , What did you tell the machine shop to do ? 1) the block , the crank , all 4 rods and the head should be checked for cracks . 2) make sure the connecting rod bushings and the connecting rod bolts get replaced. 3) the crank , the rods , the pistons , the flywheel all should be balanced regardless of having the balancer on the engine . 4) the bearings in the balancer are all going to need to be replaced . 5) .0015 is the maximum clearance for the main and rod bearings . 6) make sure you use the later Gear Rotor oil pump not the old style gear to gear oil pump . 7) make sure the crankshaft bore is true and straight . 8) make both the head and the block get resurfaced . If you want it to last more than 200 hours that’s the minimum you need to do . These engine are notorious for breaking crankshafts because of cracking problems , the connecting rod bolts break because they are same ones used in gas engines and are not heavy duty enough for diesel usage . The crankshaft can be reground up to .020 NO MORE ! They were Tufftride coated at the factory . The coating is .027 to .030 thick . Once it’s gone it’s no good for use in a diesel anymore . Do it right the first time and spend the money otherwise you will be doing it again when it blows up
i'LL RUN THIS LIST BY THE MACHINE SHOP. Sorry caps were on.
 
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