Ford 7000 3pt Lift Cover

[Tweeter]

Ford 7000 3pt drifts down with nothing attached after about 1-2 hours. Going to pull lift cover off and go through the cylinder. Is there anything special to know about removing lift cover on the 7000 with load monitor?

 

[Bern]

Ford 7000 3pt drifts down with nothing attached after about 1-2 hours. Going to pull lift cover off and go through the cylinder. Is there anything special to know about removing lift cover on the 7000 with load monitor?

Just ahead of the oil filter is a large cap nut. Remove this nut and then unscrew threaded sleeve with an allen wrench. Also, don't forget the hold down bolt directly underneath the RH lift arm - it's easy to miss. Once you start lifting the cover up a few inches, disconnect the load monitor linkage before completely removing.

 

[Tweeter]

The 3pth arms still drift down quite fast after I did the following:
1. Replaced piston seal with new oring and nylon backer. The old backer was pretty much nonexistent oring was intact and looked ok. Cylinder bore seemed clean and smooth.
2. Replaced all orings between cylinder and top cover.
3. Replaced all orings between top cover and remote valve body.
4. Pulled plug and made sure unloader valve was free moving.
5. Pulled control valve and made sure it wasnt stuck and free moving.
6. Replaced oring on tube through rear end housing to external spin on filter.
7. Replaced oring and gasket between rear end housing and top cover.

Arms drop within minutes half way with no implements attached. If I watch closely I can see them drop. Aside from it still drifting down, when raised all the way up and running, the 3pth arms jerk up ever few seconds.

What could be causing all of this?

 

[showcrop]

I don't know about the 7000 but on the hundreds and XX1s the unloader valve is not supposed to move freely. It is supposed move only with significant push. It is also recommended to get the O-ring from CNH because it needs to be the correct hardness.

 

[Bern]

I don't know about the 7000 but on the hundreds and XX1s the unloader valve is not supposed to move freely. It is supposed move only with significant push. It is also recommended to get the O-ring from CNH because it needs to be the correct hardness.

Yours and his understanding of "significant push" are likely different. There needs to be some resistance to movement on that spool, but not a lot.

 

[Bern]

The 3pth arms still drift down quite fast after I did the following:
1. Replaced piston seal with new oring and nylon backer. The old backer was pretty much nonexistent oring was intact and looked ok. Cylinder bore seemed clean and smooth.
2. Replaced all orings between cylinder and top cover.
3. Replaced all orings between top cover and remote valve body.
4. Pulled plug and made sure unloader valve was free moving.
5. Pulled control valve and made sure it wasnt stuck and free moving.
6. Replaced oring on tube through rear end housing to external spin on filter.
7. Replaced oring and gasket between rear end housing and top cover.

Arms drop within minutes half way with no implements attached. If I watch closely I can see them drop. Aside from it still drifting down, when raised all the way up and running, the 3pth arms jerk up ever few seconds.

What could be causing all of this?

Let's troubleshoot this rather than shooting from the hip. Raise the arms, shut off the engine, and pull out the ASC valve, which is the big black knob on the RH front of the lift cover. Post back with the results.

 

[Tweeter]

Let's troubleshoot this rather than shooting from the hip. Raise the arms, shut off the engine, and pull out the ASC valve, which is the big black knob on the RH front of the lift cover. Post back with the results.

After going through some archive posts, I saw one you posted Bern about the ASC position testing on I think a 5000. I guess I should have mentioned that the ASC spool on this tractor is broken where it couples to the black knob inside the cover. I have no idea how that would have happened. When I was inside I did move the ASC spool back and forth to see if it was free and then left it in the "pushed in" position. So I cannot easily perform this test at the moment but I am now thinking maybe the spool is in a position to allow passage of fluid. Could that be the problem here?

The unloader valve on this 7000 slides when I push on it with a screwdriver from one end and with my finger from the other end. Its not like if I were to hold the cylinder upright the valve would drop to the bottom side. Something more than gravity needs to act on it to move it. It does NOT have a rubber oring on it just a metal split ring type seal.

 

[Bern]

After going through some archive posts, I saw one you posted Bern about the ASC position testing on I think a 5000. I guess I should have mentioned that the ASC spool on this tractor is broken where it couples to the black knob inside the cover. I have no idea how that would have happened. When I was inside I did move the ASC spool back and forth to see if it was free and then left it in the "pushed in" position. So I cannot easily perform this test at the moment but I am now thinking maybe the spool is in a position to allow passage of fluid. Could that be the problem here?

The unloader valve on this 7000 slides when I push on it with a screwdriver from one end and with my finger from the other end. Its not like if I were to hold the cylinder upright the valve would drop to the bottom side. Something more than gravity needs to act on it to move it. It does NOT have a rubber oring on it just a metal split ring type seal.

I'm glad that you found my archived post. Since the 5000 and 7000 covers are pretty much the same, it will save me from having to type the same process again. Let me know if it doesn't make any sense, and reply back with a link to said post so I can review it again.

The ASC valve spool should either be fully in or fully out. It is not designed to be halfway. I've never tried it halfway, but I suppose this could be causing your problem if it's not fully seated one way or the other. If memory serves me correctly, you should be able to grab the end of that spool with a needle nose vice grips to pull the spool in and out and conduct the test. Make sure when you do that you can feel the detent action.

 

[Tweeter]

I'm glad that you found my archived post. Since the 5000 and 7000 covers are pretty much the same, it will save me from having to type the same process again. Let me know if it doesn't make any sense, and reply back with a link to said post so I can review it again.

The ASC valve spool should either be fully in or fully out. It is not designed to be halfway. I've never tried it halfway, but I suppose this could be causing your problem if it's not fully seated one way or the other. If memory serves me correctly, you should be able to grab the end of that spool with a needle nose vice grips to pull the spool in and out and conduct the test. Make sure when you do that you can feel the detent action.

Bern - I think I'll have to remove the top cover again and figure the spool out first before doing your test. The end of spool is what is broken not the black knob end. The spool end when looking through the knob hole is basically flat and flush with the interior housing with nothin to grab.

Can you tell me what your thinking is regarding the ASC in or out?

 

[Bern]

Bern - I think I'll have to remove the top cover again and figure the spool out first before doing your test. The end of spool is what is broken not the black knob end. The spool end when looking through the knob hole is basically flat and flush with the interior housing with nothin to grab.

Can you tell me what your thinking is regarding the ASC in or out?

Pulling out the ASC valve splits the circuit into two sections and helps isolate where the leak is. The details should be in the archived post of mine that you said you found. Can you dig it back up and attach the link?

 

[Tweeter]

Pulling out the ASC valve splits the circuit into two sections and helps isolate where the leak is. The details should be in the archived post of mine that you said you found. Can you dig it back up and attach the link?

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/threads/3-point-jerks-surges.1521893/

 

[Bern]

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/threads/3-point-jerks-surges.1521893/

Well, I guess that wasn't very helpful, as the guy never reported back.

See attached image. If you lift a heavy load, shut the engine off, and pull out the ASC valve, everything shown in green is isolated. If it still leaks down quickly, the problem is most likely a leaking piston seal or cylinder safety valve. If it holds, you most likely have a worn control valve.