Ferguson Tea20 starter solenoid?

[mikeysgarage]

Hi all, I've recently started working on my Grandpa's old 1955 Tea20, its been sitting for a while (maybe 10-15 years) it looks decent under the hood but looks like he was messing with the carb before he quit. I removed the battery and found a lot of rust beneath the tray including this little piece that was hooked up to the wiring and battery cable but can't seem to find it in any service manuals. Looking it up says its a starter solenoid, I can't seem to find any OEM number so can't find anything comparable. Gonna test if it works first but it's appearance is not promising and am assuming it'll need replacing. Does anyone have experience with this piece or a crossover they've used? It's a 6v battery so assuming a 6v system still. Going to try turning it over this weekend wirh new battery and cleaned carb.

 

[mikeysgarage]

I agree, you're posts will no doubt help me in my restoration! Thank you for the bell housing info and the 12 volts, I live in Ontario Canada, there is a place around that I've found has parts for the air cleaner thats missing I can get delivered in, this site has a Canadian equivalent luckily. I'll try starting it up tomorrow and let you know how it goes

 

[Texasmark]

They are not hard to fix either, usually just have to be taken out and cleaned. New ones are also available.


https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ferguson-TE20_Starter-Switch-Gear-Stick-Operated_829960M91.html


Absolutely no need for a solenoid on these tractors.

I have taken several Ford solenoids apart and reversed the contacts. Drill out the rivets holding them together, turn the input/output pitted posts around to the smooth side, polish off the pitted center conductor (that moves), and put them back together with screws and nuts.

 

[mikeysgarage]

Thanks all for the advice! I decided since the solenoid looked really rusted anyways that I would reset everything and get a new starter switch and bring it back to how it originally should be. During my reconfiguring I found the selector rails were seized and ended up taking off the steering column and managed to get them moving again. Now the Fergie is cranking over but not completely starting. I've checked and the spark plugs all have spark, I've cleaned the carb but may have some choke issues as the choked likes to spring back into closed position and won't stay open. I've taken a video of it trying to crank but not catching but can't upload it. I'm going to try a new carb (buying an amazon one to use its parts hopefully)and to see if a temp new carb solves my issues. Any other ideas or suggestions? Thankd again!

 

[John Deere D]

What is the "Earth / Ground" connection from your battery to the Engine.....++++ or -----?
Below info is as per factory original wiring,electrical system

When a Ferguson TEA-20 has a positive ground system, the positive (+) terminal of the ignition coil connects to the ignition distributor, and the negative (-) terminal connects to the ignition switch

 

[mikeysgarage]

What is the "Earth / Ground" connection from your battery to the Engine.....++++ or -----?
Below info is as per factory original wiring,electrical system

When a Ferguson TEA-20 has a positive ground system, the positive (+) terminal of the ignition coil connects to the ignition distributor, and the negative (-) terminal connects to the ignition switch

Mine is definitely a negative ground, the negative cable was attached to the back of the instrument panel. It also has an alternator (attached a pic cuz I've been wrong before)

 

[Brown David]

Mine is definitely a negative ground, the negative cable was attached to the back of the instrument panel. It also has an alternator (attached a pic cuz I've been wrong before)

Mopar alternator, don't see those used too often. Looks like the early one field wire one.

(Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth if you don't know what Mopar is.)

 

[olddavid]

Mopar alternator, don't see those used too often. Looks like the early one field wire one.

(Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth if you don't know what Mopar is.)

Years ago, I used a Mopar alternator to convert my '61 Chevy half ton 235 over. I used the solid-state regulator as well and it work fine. It wasn't too difficult to mount, and it was already 12 volt. I had the Mopar available and the wiring harness so that's what I used. I think it might have inspired Dad to some extent to convert his tractors over.

 

[Brown David]

Years ago, I used a Mopar alternator to convert my '61 Chevy half ton 235 over. I used the solid-state regulator as well and it work fine. It wasn't too difficult to mount, and it was already 12 volt. I had the Mopar available and the wiring harness so that's what I used. I think it might have inspired Dad to some extent to convert his tractors over.

Yep, dirt simple to connect even without the factory harness.

Just as reliable as any other alternator, the only thing I've ever had go wrong was the brushes wore out and in most cases they can be changed without removing the alternator.

Even in the later vehicles when the voltage regulator in the PCM failed you could easily connect the older solid state regulator to the alternator and save the cost of a new PCM.

I drove nothing but Mopars for years until the only ones available were the Daimler and so forth abominations.

 

[used red MN]

It also has an alternator (attached a pic cuz I've been wrong before)

Just FYI, with that alternator it needs to remain negative ground or you’ll smoke the alternator or the wiring. Just make sure the coil negative terminal is connected to the distributor lead. It will start and run either way but optimal spark is obtained with correct polarity.