JD 3010 Hot Wire to Turn Engine Without Key

[kinglouie]

I have a 3010 with a hydraulic fluid leak somewhere up by the cooler / radiator but it won't leak unless the engine is turning. I have nobody to help me and turn the key so I was trying to figure out a way to turn the engine over using wires from the starter / solenoid. I'd prefer to use little jumper wires on some of the little terminals but I could use booster cables on the large terminals too I suppose. I've tried a bit both ways and I just haven't gotten it to turn. I keep the keep in the run position.

In the pictures every terminal except the big one at the top of the solenoid with the connected small one with the blue wire are 24V. The big one on the top and the blue wire go straight to the negative terminal of a battery. The other big solenoid terminal is 24V, the yellow wire terminal is 24V the big terminal on the side of the starter is 24V, the big terminal at the back of the starter is 24V and the little terminal in the back with the white coiled wire is 24V (of course because it's connected right to the large terminal at the back of the starter).

Any ideas? Thanks a million, fellas. You guys have been a lifesaver!

PS: I'm sorry some pictures came out sideways. I don't know how to fix that.

 

[MM-TX]

Harbor Freight has one on sale right now. Pretty handy. Remote starter button.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1224v-remote-starter-switch-70597.html

One wire connects to the starter solenoid's S-terminal (the small start signal post), and the other wire connects to the positive (+) battery terminal

 

[kinglouie]

Harbor Freight has one on sale right now. Pretty handy. Remote starter button.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1224v-remote-starter-switch-70597.html

Hey thanks. Would you have any idea which terminals I should clamp the red and black to?

 

[MM-TX]

Hey thanks. Would you have any idea which terminals I should clamp the red and black to?

One wire connects to the starter solenoid's S-terminal (the small start signal post), and the other wire connects to the positive (+) battery terminal. Disconnect the coil wire and it can't start start.

 

[Tx Jim]

Shown in photo below are the starter solenoid posts that remote starter switch should be attached to that other members mentioned. Which color lead to which post is immaterial because switch will operate attached either method. Be sure trans is in neutral position!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Fixingfarmer]

If 24 volt it would be a diesel no coil

is the starter solenoid wire going to want 12v or 24v? When you press the start button what does that wire have id check with a multimeter to see if it’s 12 I can’t remember. 24 volt is easy like Jim shows 12 you would put one wire of the remote switch on the correct battery post

 

[Tx Jim]

3010 diesel starter solenoid requires 24 volts to energize it. See parts photo below of 3010 starter Correct 3010 starter solenoid will be marked 24 V

 

[kinglouie]

Shown in photo below are the starter solenoid posts that remote starter switch should be attached to that other members mentioned. Which color lead to which post is immaterial because switch will operate attached either method. Be sure trans is in neutral position!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good morning and hello again, you've been a good help multiple times in the past so thanks a million. This is great information. I'm going to give this a try this morning. I hope I remember to tell you how it goes but if I forget I'd just like to thank you for taking some time to help me.

 

[Tx Jim]

You're welcome.
I think my answering questions concerning tractor/equipment problems helps keep my aging brain functioning a little better. BUT have no fear ""AI will take the slack"' when my time is up on God's Earth!!

 

[kinglouie]

3010 diesel starter solenoid requires 24 volts to energize it. See parts photo below of 3010 starter Correct 3010 starter solenoid will be marked 24 V

Hi Jim. Well I finally saw where the leak was. It was a torn o-ring on one of the pump fittings but the way the oil was shooting out it was pretty hidden and it was shooting upward do it was pretty deceiving and seemed like the oil cooler was the issue. I finally got it all stitched up again. Thanks for the help once again.

Now I've got to get hydraulic fluid back into it. The internet says it takes about 9 gallons to fill it. Now this tractor does pretty light duty usually but lately I've been running a saw off of the PTO and run it at 1300 rpm and usually the engine doesn't seem to even notice the load on it while I'm cutting the wood. Up until now I haven't been particular about what I put in it with regards to hydraulic/transmission fluid and have been putting in low cost stuff. But now while reading posts on here I've been introduced to wet brakes and I've read people cautioning about cheap hydraulic fluid and so I'd like to upgrade my fluid choice but when I've been shopping locally for a higher specification oil I haven't found a type that's both relatively inexpensive and also up to J20 spec. I found some that's J20C for about $100 Canadian a pail, so then that'll be about $230 when it's all said and done as opposed to about double that for the low viscosity hy-gard John Deere stuff or the equivalent. There's no J20D, low viscosity availability locally from what I can see of the $100 stuff. The chances of me running this tractor in the winter is low, but if I was in a scenario where I wanted the tractor in the winter would J20C be out of the question? If I wanted it in the winter I could do what I've done in the past which is to enclose the tractor with tarps and heat underneath with a propane heater to soften up the oil. Do you think I could get away with using the $100 J20C fluid?

I hope your having a nice day. Your knowledge and experience is gratefully appreciated here. Bye for now.