Proud owner of a Case 830 CK DOM

The temperature light red wire should be connected to your light switch, the black wire would be for ground. In Case color coding, blue wires are for fuel and the gauge should have one hot wire and one going to the tank sending unit. Not sure what the green wire would be. I'll look in my books today to see if my "older model" books can give a clue.
Thanks TG. The dark green wire is connected to the starter switch on my tractor. The blue wire was connected to that and one of the poles on the fuel gauge. There is another lighter green wire thati have no idea where it's supposed to go, it was just taped over. Before I disassembled the gas tank there was a red and black wire connected to a ground and to the sending unit.

Gene
 
This diagram is for a pre comfort king model, hope the color codes are of help.
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Well so far so good. I have the dash installed, the dash lights come on and are pretty bright, thanks John Saeli. I put the key in the ignition and it turned over but it looks like I have a wire connection wrong on the fuel gauge as it says it's full when I haven't put and gas in the tank yet. Looks like it will be some trial and error to find out which wire I have crossed. I noticed the light down by the brakes hadn't lit up is that's because it's not grounded to the dash, I'm not sure. It's not that important right now.

Gene
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Is there some sort of trick to help stop the sediment bulb from leaking? I used the same gasket that was with the tractor when I bought it and it didn't leak before I disassembled, but now after getting everything back together I've had tried the cork gasket and rubber ones. Both have either leaked or if I get the bulb to fit and open the shut off valve it barely dribbles like it's vapor locked. I did buy a new screen and rubber gasket hoping that was the issue but that leaked as well. I'm sure it's something simple but it's just frustrating being so close to finding out of my other efforts paid off to work.

Gene
 
Is there some sort of trick to help stop the sediment bulb from leaking? I used the same gasket that was with the tractor when I bought it and it didn't leak before I disassembled, but now after getting everything back together I've had tried the cork gasket and rubber ones. Both have either leaked or if I get the bulb to fit and open the shut off valve it barely dribbles like it's vapor locked. I did buy a new screen and rubber gasket hoping that was the issue but that leaked as well. I'm sure it's something simple but it's just frustrating being so close to finding out of my other efforts paid off to work.

Gene
Those sediment bowl gaskets can be tricky on anything. I had success with one by using 2 gaskets.
 
I am not sure if the 830 gas uses a vented gas cap or not, could be the problem. One of the experts will chime in on that as they will know.
 
I'm not sure if the gas cap is vented either, but when I had the new gasket installed I had the cap off just in case it leaked so I could pour the gas from the bulb back in the tank. I'll try again in the morning.
 
I finally got the gasket to seal for the sediment bulb and was able to start the tractor, letting it run for about 5 minutes wide open. Then took it down the road to test it. It run continuously without issue. Before I did all that and got it running I checked the spark plugs, they were pretty nasty looking, one of the wires didn't have a good connection. So I'll definitely need to get new plugs and wires. Got the 830 back into the yard and seen the temp gauge was over 220 which I thought was a bit warm. I'll need to flush and fill the radiator and maybe get a new thermostat. Stop need to figure out the wiring for the fuel sending unit. For now I'm happy it's running again just need to gradually update/upgrade things.

Gene
 

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Nice! I have a 66 830 ck com. From some reading on this site that temp seems high. My diesel runs about 180 degrees. Gas I am thinking should be the same but there are lots of varying ideas on where it should run but 220 seems hot. It might be the sender or gage also malfunctioning. Worth a check. If you have a digital heat gun you might shoot it at the block where the sender goes in and up by the thermostat housing to be sure its a thermostat, radiator or gage malfunction. Best of luck. Sound like you are doing a fine job of restoration and repair. Nick
 
I finally got the gasket to seal for the sediment bulb and was able to start the tractor, letting it run for about 5 minutes wide open. Then took it down the road to test it. It run continuously without issue. Before I did all that and got it running I checked the spark plugs, they were pretty nasty looking, one of the wires didn't have a good connection. So I'll definitely need to get new plugs and wires. Got the 830 back into the yard and seen the temp gauge was over 220 which I thought was a bit warm. I'll need to flush and fill the radiator and maybe get a new thermostat. Stop need to figure out the wiring for the fuel sending unit. For now I'm happy it's running again just need to gradually update/upgrade things.

Gene
Here's a couple videos I took of it running. Had to post on the other YT (YouTube) to get the videos to load.

Case 830 pt. 1

Case 830 pt. 2

Nick, I'm not sure I'm doing that great a job with the repair but I'm doing my best. My uncle felt that it was running high as well at 220. I need to flush and fill the radiator with fresh coolant and check again. I'll also be doing an oil change and if I feel brave enough changing the trans/hydro oil/filter.

Thanks to everyone else who offered advice and diagrams while I worked on this. I still have a ways to go getting it cleaned and the gas tank lined to keep the rust out.

Gene
 
Trans and hydraulic is easy. Well within your ability. Report back on the temp issue please. That's one you want to get solved before any damage occurs if it is actually reading that high.
 
You might want to check 2 simple, easy causes.
First, on a dark day or in the shop, put a trouble light in behind the radiator, next to the fan blades. Make sure you can see light from the grill side. If you can't, your core is plugged and needs to be washed out. You can use a pressure washer if you hit the fins straight on so they don't get bent. Lower pressure is advised.
Second, try to turn the fan by hand. If the fan turns easily, the belt is not gripping. Belt can be glazed or loose. When you run the engine WOT, the fan should make a roaring sound.
Good Luck!
 
You might want to check 2 simple, easy causes.
First, on a dark day or in the shop, put a trouble light in behind the radiator, next to the fan blades. Make sure you can see light from the grill side. If you can't, your core is plugged and needs to be washed out. You can use a pressure washer if you hit the fins straight on so they don't get bent. Lower pressure is advised.
Second, try to turn the fan by hand. If the fan turns easily, the belt is not gripping. Belt can be glazed or loose. When you run the engine WOT, the fan should make a roaring sound.
Good Luck!
WOT, the fan should make a roaring sound.
Yes, at WOT the air coming off the radiator fan should blow the grass over a bit as you drive past.
 
I'm not sure if the gas cap is vented either, but when I had the new gasket installed I had the cap off just in case it leaked so I could pour the gas from the bulb back in the tank. I'll try again in the morning.
My Dad got overzealous about making a gasket out of flat shoe leather, guess what, few days later tractor would starve for fuel,
I discovered this after changing fuel filters, I ran the cap little loose for awhile. I think the vent is curled up under the rim of these
Fuel caps.
 
My attempt to clean the gas tank using soda wash and battery charger (electrolysis method) didn't work as good as I thought. Saturday I used it for a half hour to an hour with no issues, come Sunday morning after putting another 6 gallons of gas in the tank and was driving it to my Grandma's house it started chugging again. It stalled out several times before I finally got to my Grandma's yard. The bulb had quite a bit of rust sediment in it. I let it sit for a while visiting with my Grandma then when it came time to head home it acted up again. Luckily I had a 1/4" hose attached to my radiator drain and I used that to blow the gunk out of the tank neck going to the fuel line. That worked up until I was about 50 yards from my home driveway. The temp was steady on the gauge at about 230 or so, which I know is high but I'm getting fluids tomorrow and draining the radiator, crankcase so there will be fresh oil and coolant. I might wait on doing the hydraulic/transmission for another time.
When I had the radiator off to get repaired I completely spaced it that I should've blown/washed it of the dust that was in the fins. Some were bent and I did my best to straighten them out. I've got my weekend project lined up again.

Gene
 
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