Anyone re-skin a 1950's shop?

I can't decide what to do with my 40'x80' old timey shop. I've owned it less than 10 years, came with 4 acres and an old farmhouse. The Texas wildfire in 2023 blazed through all the land and spared the shop and house. The lawsuit paid me what I paid for the place. So, it's built from oilfield pipe which seems to be in very good condition, but all the exterior metal needs to be replaced. I should have bought the new metal first off after the purchase. I think we'll break a record of days above 100 degrees here, so the idea of working on the roof isn't at the top of my to-do list. I've done all the power from the pole into the shop (the wire was sitting above ground). If your smaller than a Bobcat you can get into the shop. I ran new water lines a few years ago, but one hydrant has the top nut seal leaking so that needs redone. There's been a lot of old metal in the ground I keep tripping over also (7) 13ft pre-cast pipe 14" in diameter in the field. It's 105 degrees inside now with all the fans and two evaporative coolers blasting. In the winter heaters need to run constantly, and I don't like noise like that.
 

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Is it leaking?
Doesn't look like it needs replaced as much as just tightening up with screws or nails
Yes, it leaks from the roof. I want it insulated so new metal is a must. Both top rail 16'x16' sliding doors need to be replaced. It would probably be cheaper to start all over but only if I could do all the work. It's an hour from my home so no popping in for an hours work etc.
 
If you can take the tin down without tearing it up I would try to save it. The rust could be treated and the metal painted. Only the metal rusted through would need to be replaced. Perhaps recycle some of the roof tin for the walls and put some new tin on the roof. Usually with a metal building the leaks are around the fasteners. It pulls at the fasteners as the metal expands and contracts. The easiest insulation you could put up is metal building insulation. It comes in a roll 4 and 5 feet wide with white vinyl on one side.
 
If you can take the tin down without tearing it up I would try to save it. The rust could be treated and the metal painted. Only the metal rusted through would need to be replaced. Perhaps recycle some of the roof tin for the walls and put some new tin on the roof. Usually with a metal building the leaks are around the fasteners. It pulls at the fasteners as the metal expands and contracts. The easiest insulation you could put up is metal building insulation. It comes in a roll 4 and 5 feet wide with white vinyl on one side.
I looked at one of the 2x6's roof purlins, it has 22 nails in one board. I'd have Popeyes arms removing all those nails. No free lunch on this project. I have the money but not the time, one quote was $60K. I'd try to re- sell to old tin, some roof panels are damaged and don't over hang past the side wall.
 
Another option is overlay it
Strapping boards to fasten the new steel to
Foam board insulation between the Strapping

This could be an as you have time amd weather project cause the building would never be left open to the elements as you progressed
 
I can't decide what to do with my 40'x80' old timey shop. I've owned it less than 10 years, came with 4 acres and an old farmhouse. The Texas wildfire in 2023 blazed through all the land and spared the shop and house. The lawsuit paid me what I paid for the place. So, it's built from oilfield pipe which seems to be in very good condition, but all the exterior metal needs to be replaced. I should have bought the new metal first off after the purchase. I think we'll break a record of days above 100 degrees here, so the idea of working on the roof isn't at the top of my to-do list. I've done all the power from the pole into the shop (the wire was sitting above ground). If your smaller than a Bobcat you can get into the shop. I ran new water lines a few years ago, but one hydrant has the top nut seal leaking so that needs redone. There's been a lot of old metal in the ground I keep tripping over also (7) 13ft pre-cast pipe 14" in diameter in the field. It's 105 degrees inside now with all the fans and two evaporative coolers blasting. In the winter heaters need to run constantly, and I don't like noise like that.
And your question is? Permission to replace tin?
 
The Mennonites buy places here all the time and reskin the buildings. They look like new.

If you saw what the neighbor did with two old open sided beef barns, it'd give you a goal. One houses his combine and all of his semis, the other is half heated shop, large enough to get two semis in, the other half is enclosed toolshed.
 
Honestly I don't see the need to re-side it. That old Strongbarn is far tougher stuff than whatever you'll replace it with. Paint the outside, spray foam the inside and it will be good for another seventy years. Of course it will take some prep to get paint to stick to that rusty/galvanized siding. Ospho is one product you can use on the rust.
 
What plans do you have for the building? It's so big anything beyond patch, prep and paint would cost a fortune with little payback.
Shop is full of vintage tools, three phase equipment, restored 1954 travel trailer, my Ford tractor etc. If I can't control the building heat issue it's just uncomfortable storage.
 
I've found, at least when I'm inside, having garage doors on opposite ends allows for a nice breeze. White roof can't hurt.
If the building can support it, a ceiling makes heating possible for short periods.
 
My son is putting up a new shop right now. He's having a black roof put on that. The Mennonites building that rolled out some kind of insulation blanket under it that they said reduced the heat on the inside by 90%. Might look in to that.
 
I'd be looking around at other quotes, and maybe start with just the roof. $60k sounds stupidly high. There are some cheaper options you could consider too.

Around here, if you go to the regular 'Roof Mart' or Home Depot type places or ask many roofing-specific contractors, they'll gouge you for steel. But around here there are a few Mennonite roofing manufacturers that make quality steel for a fraction of the price. Usually between $1.20 and $1.80 (CAD) per square foot, depending on gauge and paint vs. galv. Making some assumptions on overhang and slope, that's about $5,500 to $6,000 for the roof steel on yours. Even with the amount of nails you describe, two guys and a man lift should have no problem doing that roof in a day or two (at most).

I'd try and find some local chap with a man lift to hire if you don't have one and don't feel like crawling up there on ladders and hauling sheeting up there yourself. My Uncle just hired a local father/son duo with a manlift around the corner to re-side one of our barns. I was away, we don't have a lift at that farm, and he decided (rightfully so) that it was worth paying someone rather than hauling ladders and siding around himself. In one day working with my uncle on the ground cutting and handing pieces up, those guys re-sided one full barn, and had lots of daylight left over so my uncle asked them if they'd do some repair work on another barn with wood siding. They re-fastened all the boards on two sides of that second barn where the nails had all started to pull out, fixed a ridge cap that had started to blow off, and did a quick patch in one corned of that steel roof as well. They only asked for $1200 for the day (though my uncle paid them a little more as they definitely deserved it). All parties very pleased at the end of the day.

I realize prices for steel, labor, etc. can vary significantly from place to place. But the $60k you were quoted sounds rather crazy, even if that is for the siding as well. If you find a local chap with a man lift, you could even go cheaper and just hire them for a day to replace all the nails with proper roofing screws. That roof on yours may not look new, but with all the seams and fastener holes sealed up, it'd probably last another 20-30 years.
 
There is a factory here that has moved two or three buildings from one side of the river to the other side . They sold the old siding and replaced it with new. Yes the Amish do most of their building repairs .
 
I can't decide what to do with my 40'x80' old timey shop. I've owned it less than 10 years, came with 4 acres and an old farmhouse. The Texas wildfire in 2023 blazed through all the land and spared the shop and house. The lawsuit paid me what I paid for the place. So, it's built from oilfield pipe which seems to be in very good condition, but all the exterior metal needs to be replaced. I should have bought the new metal first off after the purchase. I think we'll break a record of days above 100 degrees here, so the idea of working on the roof isn't at the top of my to-do list. I've done all the power from the pole into the shop (the wire was sitting above ground). If your smaller than a Bobcat you can get into the shop. I ran new water lines a few years ago, but one hydrant has the top nut seal leaking so that needs redone. There's been a lot of old metal in the ground I keep tripping over also (7) 13ft pre-cast pipe 14" in diameter in the field. It's 105 degrees inside now with all the fans and two evaporative coolers blasting. In the winter heaters need to run constantly, and I don't like noise like that.
Building a new smaller workshop and leaving the old shed as storage might be a lower cost option.

In cold climates it is popular to build an insulated workshop inside pole sheds. The smaller space is much easier to heat and cool, mini/split heat pumps reduce costs too. A storage loft over the workshop recovers some space.

In the Midwest old vacant farm houses are a liability, they usually are torn down shortly after a property is sold.
 
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