D-17 Series 3 Power Director Not Hooked up?

[RTR]

New to working on Allis Tractors and about to start refurbishing (2) D-17 tractors. These questions are regarding a D-17 series 3 I recently bought and got it running. Clutch pedal grabs at the end of the travel so I’m sure I need a clutch but 3 other things Ive noticed that need attention:

(1) Brakes act like they are rusted and binding up. Is this common? How hard is the repair? Band replacement I’m sure

(2) the gear shifter is very stiff and hard to shift into gears. There isn’t a prominent detent like on my series 4

(3) the TA / Piwer Director isn’t working but not only isn’t it working, it feels like there isn’t anything hooked up to the lever. No resistance on the lever and it just moves loosely to each position

 

[DrAllis]

It's been sitting around and the internal brake linkage inside is probably rusted up solid if the pedals are hard to move. If the pedals move OK and no stopping power the band lining is probably gone. Pull both axles/final drives to repair. 6 hrs flat rate for both sides. The Power Director is probably been run waaaay low on hydraulic oil and the brass shifting collar is destroyed. Is there even hyd oil in it ?? Gearshift is identical to your other tractor and should work exactly the same. Is the rubber boot gone??? Maybe all rusted up inside.

 

[RTR]

It was just making a lot of noise and being very clunky/grinding while moving in gear and with the clutch pushed in - which made me think the brakes were trying to lock up due to being stuck/rusted on the bands. I haven't checked the hydraulic oil on it but the power steering is not working like it should so I'm sure it is very low. I hate to buy a $150 bucket of oil and dump in it just to test out and have it leak back out. Any suggestions on what I can use in it for testing purposes before I'm ready to fix it? I have access to good used Kubota Hydraulic Oil (Super UDT) at work but not sure how it would work in the Allis. I know only that will work in Kubotas or you'll burn out the clutch packs. I only ran the tractor for about 10 min tops just to go through all gears.

 

[DrAllis]

Power steering oil is ahead of the radiator takes 5 quarts. Hydraulic/Power Director clutch is to the LEFT of the gearshift. Unthread the dipstick and if seriously low recheck several times as it takes a while to spread out. BUT, if the setscrew is tight on the hand lever, there has to be a bad failure inside on the brass shifter collar. ANY type of hydraulic oil will work for this, new or used. If you split the tractor to fix it, you'll have much metal shavings to clean up anyway, and throw away any oil that's in there.

 

[RTR]

Approximate cost to fix the power director ? I can figure out pricing the clutch stuff and brake stuff.

 

[DrAllis]

No idea. Until you pull off the RH side cover and actually look inside and verify what I think the problem is....you don't know. No new parts these days. So, you're looking at good used, which shouldn't be an issue. Be sure to use a legit 3/4" line wrench in that cover area. I'd remove the brake rods to swing the pedals down out of the way and probably remove the platform too.

 

[RTR]

No idea. Until you pull off the RH side cover and actually look inside and verify what I think the problem is....you don't know. No new parts these days. So, you're looking at good used, which shouldn't be an issue. Be sure to use a legit 3/4" line wrench in that cover area. I'd remove the brake rods to swing the pedals down out of the way and probably remove the platform too.

Sounds good. Not following all the way since I'm not familiar with them and not currently looking at it but when I get around it I will read again and I'm sure I'll see. Glad there is a side cover rather than having to split to find out. You can't get new rebuild parts for them??

 

[DrAllis]

Some parts yes. What I think is wrong with yours.....I don't think so. But, I could be wrong.

 

[RTR]

Some parts yes. What I think is wrong with yours.....I don't think so. But, I could be wrong.

ok.