John Deere 60 propane filter head and body removal while engine assembled

Hello, I have managed to get myself in quite the situation with a John Deere 60 propane and I am looking for any advice I can find. Long story short I bought a 60 propane a couple years ago as a "running" project tractor. Yes it did run at the time but what a project it has become. It locked up when I picked it up and locked up a couple times after. Ended up getting s complete rebuild-crank, cam, oil pump, rods, everything. There's more of a salvaged 60 in this then the original 60 I started with. Ever since the rebuild I have had zero oil pressure (my dad made a post a couple weeks ago but I have since found new issues) and I have went through everything to find out why I don't have pressure. Between the last two days I have dropped the oil pump gears back out and everything looked fine then I went to pull the filter out and all the filter cap does is spin. I can hear the stud/bolt turning inside the filter houseing, i had an issue getting it tight when I put a new filter on but didnt think much of it. The filter houseing and valve body is the only part I did not remove when rebuilding. I have to remove the filter head and houseing to fix the stud and hopefully find if the head is cracked and maybe thats where im losing all my oil pressure at. The IT book says it is possible to remove the filter assembly out the bottom of the tractor while the block and everything is assembled, has anyone tried this? Or have any tips or tricks to get the assembly out? I know im probably going to have to cut down some wrenches. Even if I dont have to remove to fix the stud im hopeing if I remove it I can find my pressure issue being a Crack or that gasket that I see in the parts book. Id like to try anyway I can not have to tear the motor back down to do it. I know this was a long winded story but this 60 has been beating me for 2 years now and im trying to finally get it done. Thanks for any help or ideas-Jacob
 
You only need to remove the top of the filter assy. Remove your lines and 3- 5/16 bolts and the top with the long bolt will come out. Maybe on the 60 you will need to come up from the bottom. If so, you will need to take the oil filter outlet out of the cast head that you are going to remove. I use a needle nose vicegrip to remove that outlet. Then there are 2 bolts to remove to take the top off.
 
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You have to remove # 36 from the bottom of the filter assembly first, then remove the 3 bolts #25 that hold the head on. Also remove the oil lines and you can remove the top that the bolt goes into. Put good gaskets #15 and 23 back in and don't over tighten the stud bolt. To get #36 out if you bend a 1/4" rod into a U shape with 2 hooks about 1/4 -3/8 long on the ends of the U and pry down on the loop in the U shape it will pop out. There are 2 holes in the tube that the hooks go in to pull down on.
 

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I have done a filter head on a late "B" and I did it from the top. Had to massage a few wrenches to get all the oil lines off but it is doable. Should be very similar on the 60 except you should have a bit more room.

Sam
 
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