6610 oil leak from clutch rod hole

6610 II has begun leaking oil (a lot) from the clutch rod hole. Everything is working, but lost several gallons of UTF fluid in a small stream just pouring out, Rear axle dipstick showed barely in "Add" range so filled up to "Safe", disconnected mower and it all ran back out. Anybody got perspective on this? Thanks.
 
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6610 II has begun leaking oil (a lot) from the clutch rod hole. Everything is working, but lost several gallons of UTF fluid in a small stream just pouring out, Rear axle dipstick showed barely in "Add" range so filled up to "Safe", disconnected mower and it all ran back out. Anybody got perspective on this? Thanks.
If it doesn't have a cab, you can take off the 4X5 rubber plug on the right side and take a look in the clutch housing. I just had one split for a small leak in the same area, was an oring on the line that the prementioned rubber plug goes over and into the front of the transmission. The oring could be fixed through that 4X5 hole if no cab. There is a 3/16 hole in the bottom of the clutch housing that must be plugged, oil should be leaking there also. If it has a cab time to split.
 
If it doesn't have a cab, you can take off the 4X5 rubber plug on the right side and take a look in the clutch housing. I just had one split for a small leak in the same area, was an oring on the line that the prementioned rubber plug goes over and into the front of the transmission. The oring could be fixed through that 4X5 hole if no cab. There is a 3/16 hole in the bottom of the clutch housing that must be plugged, oil should be leaking there also. If it has a cab time to split.
No cab. Looked into that 4x5 opening, was pretty clean in there...no obvious oil spray...also cotter pin drain was functioning and no drips there..curious actually if that 4x5 rubber cap piece is available anywhere, it's still intact but definitely showing wear...will look in there again after running a bit more. Have to admit a misdiagnosis earlier, after getting into it I realized it was the BRAKE rod going into the rear axle housing, not the clutch rod which actually leads forward to a lever on the side of the transmission. Anyway, changed the boot on that side which was essentially in pieces except for the part you could see, Added UTF and drove around for a bit, it was dripping maybe once every 5 seconds. Adjusted the turnbuckle for the brake rod at first to tighten, which made it worse. Reversed that process, expanding the brake rod, and it seemed to stop. Left a pan underneath so we'll see in the morning. Thanks for reading and answering, I'll update if anything else ends up being required. FYI if you change those boots you can make a custom press out of a couple of big washers and a bushing, then use the nut on the rod to seat the boot and the retainer ring too. Tighter fit than I expected.
 
I replaced the boot on the rear axles with just my hands, had to do 2 tractors. Also resealed the brake through shaft while there. Havn't worked on these tractors a lot just recently. So will help with what I can. That rubber 4x5 plug is available, the one tractor was missing it.
 
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