1970 ford 4000 coil / no spark

[swattley]

I got passed the no crank solenoid chatter. Replace ground cable. But question to forum is what coil go is on this 70 4000, still has generator Blue streak points cap & roter in good shape I think. Cloud only on points face. Test light flash when crank. No spark at plug with light tester. Order the plug wires here, ground cable, and want to replace coil. The 12v feed is the shrink wrapped original wire I believe so I sure it is the resistor wire. Do I order the 12volt coil or 6 volt since I plan to stay with points.

 

[Jim.ME]

I got passed the no crank solenoid chatter. Replace ground cable. But question to forum is what coil go is on this 70 4000, still has generator Blue streak points cap & roter in good shape I think. Cloud only on points face. Test light flash when crank. No spark at plug with light tester. Order the plug wires here, ground cable, and want to replace coil. The 12v feed is the shrink wrapped original wire I believe so I sure it is the resistor wire. Do I order the 12volt coil or 6 volt since I plan to stay with points.

Order the correct original replacement. Some 6-volt coils are marked and sold as "12-volt use with external resistor", because they were installed in a 12-volt system.

D5TE12029AB crosses to a Standard FD 471X (Blue Streak) or FD 471T (trade grade)

 

[Sean in PA]

It depends on whether it has an external resistance of some sort. The original configuration used a resistor wire in line with the primary of the coil, and most of those have been replaced with a ceramic ballast resistor, but a number of them have gotten rid of the external resistance altogether and on those the coil has been replaced with a 12 volt coil that does not require an external resistance. So you need to determine whether the original resistor wire is still there, or if it has been replaced by a ceramic resistor. If either of those is the case then you can use the ones that Jim.ME suggested. If there is no external resistance, then you need to use a coil that is designed for 12 volts with no external resistor.

 

[Jim.ME]

It depends on whether it has an external resistance of some sort. The original configuration used a resistor wire in line with the primary of the coil, and most of those have been replaced with a ceramic ballast resistor, but a number of them have gotten rid of the external resistance altogether and on those the coil has been replaced with a 12 volt coil that does not require an external resistance. So you need to determine whether the original resistor wire is still there, or if it has been replaced by a ceramic resistor. If either of those is the case then you can use the ones that Jim.ME suggested. If there is no external resistance, then you need to use a coil that is designed for 12 volts with no external resistor.

I went by his first post where he said he was sure it was the resistor wire. Just using the given info.

 

[swattley]

It depends on whether it has an external resistance of some sort. The original configuration used a resistor wire in line with the primary of the coil, and most of those have been replaced with a ceramic ballast resistor, but a number of them have gotten rid of the external resistance altogether and on those the coil has been replaced with a 12 volt coil that does not require an external resistance. So you need to determine whether the original resistor wire is still there, or if it has been replaced by a ceramic resistor. If either of those is the case then you can use the ones that Jim.ME suggested. If there is no external resistance, then you need to use a coil that is designed for 12 volts with no external resistor.

Mine still has the original ford wire. Is in like a black tube like shrink wrap not heated.

 

[swattley]

I went by his first post where he said he was sure it was the resistor wire. Just using the given info.

I like this coil. I have had great luck with blue streak points in my boat. The ford has them and all Standard IGN items cap, rotor. They out last the china version.

 

[swattley]

ok got my parts from this site. i see something i may have overlooked. i order the dust cap for the distributor. mine was cracked w/ big hole. when i was testing try to start i left the dust cover off. now i see there is some fiber washer and a large star washer in the center portion where the rotor sits. it is in my old one as well. could this be the problem that the dust cover push the rotor up just enough to touch the terminals in the cap?
maybe there is nothing wrong except not know what the dust cover actually does. / any one else here have a 1970 gasser with this dust cover that might have seen this before.

 

[wore out]

ok got my parts from this site. i see something i may have overlooked. i order the dust cap for the distributor. mine was cracked w/ big hole. when i was testing try to start i left the dust cover off. now i see there is some fiber washer and a large star washer in the center portion where the rotor sits. it is in my old one as well. could this be the problem that the dust cover push the rotor up just enough to touch the terminals in the cap?
maybe there is nothing wrong except not know what the dust cover actually does. / any one else here have a 1970 gasser with this dust cover that might have seen this before.

What is the issue, is the rotor contacting the terminals in the cap and breaking /if NOT, I'm not sure what you are worrying about in that area?

 

[Jim.ME]

ok got my parts from this site. i see something i may have overlooked. i order the dust cap for the distributor. mine was cracked w/ big hole. when i was testing try to start i left the dust cover off. now i see there is some fiber washer and a large star washer in the center portion where the rotor sits. it is in my old one as well. could this be the problem that the dust cover push the rotor up just enough to touch the terminals in the cap?
maybe there is nothing wrong except not know what the dust cover actually does. / any one else here have a 1970 gasser with this dust cover that might have seen this before.

The rotor is not supposed to touch the spark plug terminals inside the cap; bad things can happen if it does. The center spring leaf on the top of the rotor should touch the center (coil) terminal in the cap.

The dust cover helps keep the inside of the distributor clean. It likely has a tab on it that locates into a notch in the distributor housing and one for the cap to locate into. These maintain the cap in the same position all the time. Some caps can move around some if the dust cover is not in place.

 

[swattley]

What is the issue, is the rotor contacting the terminals in the cap and breaking /if NOT, I'm not sure what you are worrying about in that area?

I guess I always assumed the router end would touch the plug terminals or be very close. The big problem is the tractor is up in the mountains 2 hrs from here. And try to prepare everything and have correct sucks.

 

[swattley]

The rotor is not supposed to touch the spark plug terminals inside the cap; bad things can happen if it does. The center spring leaf on the top of the rotor should touch the center (coil) terminal in the cap.

The dust cover helps keep the inside of the distributor clean. It likely has a tab on it that locates into a notch in the distributor housing and one for the cap to locate into. These maintain the cap in the same position all the time. Some caps can move around some if the dust cover is not in place.

Yes it is does have the tab to lock in place. I was just surprised to see the fiber washer and star washer to fit under the rotor inside the top of the dust cap round top. Hope I explained correctly.

 

[Jim.ME]

Yes it is does have the tab to lock in place. I was just surprised to see the fiber washer and star washer to fit under the rotor inside the top of the dust cap round top. Hope I explained correctly.

The fiber washer (some dust caps have felt washers) held by the star washer is the "seal" around the distributor shaft it is not intended as a support for the rotor, at least on the ones I have seen.

 

[Btzj02]

Yes it is does have the tab to lock in place. I was just surprised to see the fiber washer and star washer to fit under the rotor inside the top of the dust cap round top. Hope I explained correctly.

The fiber washer and star washer came from the old dust cover. A new star washer and dust seal comes with the new dust cover. Bring a sheet of sandpaper with you to fine tune the fit of the new dust cover. It should be a snug fit but sometimes they are just a hair too big seat down tightly.

 

[swattley]

The fiber washer and star washer came from the old dust cover. A new star washer and dust seal comes with the new dust cover. Bring a sheet of sandpaper with you to fine tune the fit of the new dust cover. It should be a snug fit but sometimes they are just a hair too big seat down tightly.

THE STAR WASHER DOES NOT FIT INTO THE HOLE FOR THE ROTOR. IT IS SLIGHT TOO BIG AND WILL NOT LAY FLAT. PURCHASD HERE.

 

[swattley]

Still not running after all this time. Working in the mountains 3 hr from home just not productive. Seems like the top screw for point gap has a wood type thread screw, it will hold the points if I continue that Route.
But I am thinking to go and try pertronics ignition (maybe this be better that horrible winter environment) let me ask 2 questions. How hard is it to replace the top plate in this distributor? (This is a tractor with loader installed) not easy to get in here between manifold and loader frame rail. Maybe I try thread locker, this would be for the first plate counter sink screw on the pertronics kit. Does anyone have an exploded view of this distributor for the later version 4000. I like to see how the wires come out for points to pertronics conversion.
Work I done so far: new plug wires, brew out all the crushed acorn in spark plug cavity 3 holes, new distributor cap, rotor,
Next concern are my nice plug wires I got on this site with that sealed boot going to work if I go pertronics?
Hope somebody see this post know the pertronics conversion. Everyone has been such a big help over the years. Now own 2 classic tractors, now hope my ford can run as amazing as it did 2 years ago. Please try to find me exploded view of the later version this distributor 1970 to 75

 

[pomester]

Still not running after all this time. Working in the mountains 3 hr from home just not productive. Seems like the top screw for point gap has a wood type thread screw, it will hold the points if I continue that Route.
But I am thinking to go and try pertronics ignition (maybe this be better that horrible winter environment) let me ask 2 questions. How hard is it to replace the top plate in this distributor? (This is a tractor with loader installed) not easy to get in here between manifold and loader frame rail. Maybe I try thread locker, this would be for the first plate counter sink screw on the pertronics kit. Does anyone have an exploded view of this distributor for the later version 4000. I like to see how the wires come out for points to pertronics conversion.
Work I done so far: new plug wires, brew out all the crushed acorn in spark plug cavity 3 holes, new distributor cap, rotor,
Next concern are my nice plug wires I got on this site with that sealed boot going to work if I go pertronics?
Hope somebody see this post know the pertronics conversion. Everyone has been such a big help over the years. Now own 2 classic tractors, now hope my ford can run as amazing as it did 2 years ago. Please try to find me exploded view of the later version this distributor 1970 to 75

I don't have a factory exploded diagram, perhaps someone else will. Here's a rebuild on a 3 cylinder distributor I did a few years ago with the parts cleaned and ready for reassembly. Bottom photo is before removal.

Your tractor should run just fine on points and I'd suggest you get it running before switching to electronic ignition if that's your decision. Oxidized points are the most common issue in my experience. Wood screw holding the points sounds less than optimum. Access to the distributor is not great even without the loader, I find it easier to pull the distributor and work on it on the bench. Take a picture of the rotor position so you can replace it in the same orientation. Scratch a mark on the housing/retainer to keep the timing.

 

[swattley]

John Deere 650 currently pics . This tractor is a 650 w/ 2000 HRS front loader, 4x4, turf tires, power steering option, front PTO option.

I don't have a factory exploded diagram, perhaps someone else will. Here's a rebuild on a 3 cylinder distributor I did a few years ago with the parts cleaned and ready for reassembly. Bottom photo is before removal.

Your tractor should run just fine on points and I'd suggest you get it running before switching to electronic ignition if that's your decision. Oxidized points are the most common issue in my experience. Wood screw holding the points sounds less than optimum. Access to the distributor is not great even without the loader, I find it easier to pull the distributor and work on it on the bench. Take a picture of the rotor position so you can replace it in the same orientation. Scratch a mark on the housing/retainer to keep the timing.
View attachment 160356

View attachment 160357

That look just like mine in inside. What year tractor was this. Thanks for the picture it helps a lot

 

[pomester]

The distributor in my pictures is from a 1965 4500. In your picture I see a screw resting outside the housing to the left which would appear to be the proper screw to hold your points. You could do a lot of cleaning with some brake cleaner and compressed air. A few drops of oil in the top of the shaft to lubricate the centrifugal advance mechanism would be a good idea. I don't have my manual handy but I believe the points should be gapped at .025. If I'm in a 'no spark' situation I fold up a small piece of 400 grit auto body sandpaper, snap the points shut on it and pull a few times to clean off oxidation.

I don't know exactly what's involved with an electronic conversion, but I wouldn't just slap something on top of what's pictured. Pull the distributor, clean and lubricate everything, make sure all is in top condition.