Ford 3910 bringing back to life.

Jsat150

New User
I recently purchased a ford 3910 that was neglected and wasn’t used for 8 years. I went through it, fixed all leaks, re-sealed injection pump and many other items. The rear tires are showing some pretty good dry rot but are a weird size I can’t find. 14.9-32… I found some Petlas 12.4-32, would those work? Also, the tractor runs great but takes roughly 8-10 seconds of cranking to start, I plan on pulling the injection pump strainer, replacing and trying again. I’ve already bled from filter to pump to injectors so that isn’t causing long crank time. Thanks for any help.
 

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I recently purchased a ford 3910 that was neglected and wasn’t used for 8 years. I went through it, fixed all leaks, re-sealed injection pump and many other items. The rear tires are showing some pretty good dry rot but are a weird size I can’t find. 14.9-32… I found some Petlas 12.4-32, would those work? Also, the tractor runs great but takes roughly 8-10 seconds of cranking to start, I plan on pulling the injection pump strainer, replacing and trying again. I’ve already bled from filter to pump to injectors so that isn’t causing long crank time. Thanks for any help.
I’m also looking at a loader that came off a different 3910. It supposedly comes with the brackets and bucket, but I have never had a tractor with a loader and do not know how to tie it into the hydraulics. I have a John Deer 40 tricycle Johnny popper, MF135 and this 3910, but have never had a loader.
 
I’m also looking at a loader that came off a different 3910. It supposedly comes with the brackets and bucket, but I have never had a tractor with a loader and do not know how to tie it into the hydraulics. I have a John Deer 40 tricycle Johnny popper, MF135 and this 3910, but have never had a loader
 
Normally pretty easy to hook loader up to hydraulic. They normally have three hoses that, two of then hook up to the remotes on rear of tractor and the third is a return to the top of the rear end. From your picture it looks as if you're missing one rear remote!
 
Normally pretty easy to hook loader up to hydraulic. They normally have three hoses that, two of then hook up to the remotes on rear of tractor and the third is a return to the top of the rear end. From your picture it looks as if you're missing one rear remote!
Would this be where the second line would hook up?
 

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You can go with whatever advice you choose, but if I were installing a loader on that tractor I would go with a sandwich block under the existing remote valve. Then using a standard open center power beyond loader valve connect all three lines from the valve to the block. That gives the loader live oil and leaves the existing remote valve free for other uses.

 
Thank you all for the advice.

Has anyone seen 14.9-32 rear tires before? Seems odd to me.

Any idea on extended crank time other than the strainer in the inlet for the pump?
 
The owners and parts manuals list a 10x32 rim size and 12.4-32 tire option for the 3610, 3910, 4110 models, these were more commonly found on the European models
It’s possible the tractor is a European model that got imported to the US
The outside stabilizer chains without inside stay chains is also more of a European thing
The tractor has aftermarket power steering and non original hood and exhaust. The hood and exhaust are for the 65-75 thousand series tractors
I also noticed it doesn’t have a bottom draw bar
 
The owners and parts manuals list a 10x32 rim size and 12.4-32 tire option for the 3610, 3910, 4110 models, these were more commonly found on the European models
It’s possible the tractor is a European model that got imported to the US
The outside stabilizer chains without inside stay chains is also more of a European thing
The tractor has aftermarket power steering and non original hood and exhaust. The hood and exhaust are for the 65-75 thousand series tractors
I also noticed it doesn’t have a bottom draw bar
I did not realize the exhaust position until you mentioned it. Exhaust doesn’t have an offset pipe to push it forward.
 

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