TO-30 clogging sediment bowl

@Ray,IN

"Tank removal involves 2 front bolts and 2 rear bolts, however the fly in the ointment is under the tank, there is a spring-tension hook on the tank bottom with a loop mounted to the valve cover."

My curiosity is aroused. Can you tell me more about this spring? Any pictures?

I don't have a TO 30 but I can't find any evidence of this spring from tank to valve cover anywhere.

I've removed tanks on TEA 20s/MF 35/135's, no sign of any such spring on those tractors.

According to this site the same tank fits tractor models TEA20, TE20, TO20, TO30.

Where is this spring and what does it do?
 
I was skeptical about the fuel tank sealant kits. But - I had two tractors with icky tanks, and the repl cost on one of them was pretty high. So - I bit the bullet and bought the POR-15 fuel tank sealant quart per tank.

Take the tank off, clean it three times with water, and if you have a couple ball bearings toss those in and slosh it all around. Start with as clean as possible inside tank. Remove the ball ball bearings. Pour 1/3 of the can in, and slosh it all around. End to end, top to bottom, keep sloshing so the whole interior tank surface is covered. Let it sit overnight. Put in another 1/3 material in and slosh it again. Let it sit for a full day, 23 hours. put some gas in and see how it comes out. I had to do a Ford tank a third time to cover everything inside.

So far, after 2 years, both tanks stay good and clean gas comes out. Seems to have taken care of my bad tank issues. YMMV
 
Once the tank is removed you have easy access to the rocker cover . This can be opened and the engine valves' ; intake and exhaust , clearances can be adjusted . It may sound complicated but is a fairly straightforward process . Adjusting these clearances can restore power , allow the engine to run smoothly , contribute to better fuel economy and prevent burnt valves or excessive engine wear .
Ignoring these adjustments is what contributes to many engine failures .
There are many You Tube tutorials on this subject , I would recommend looking at those by the Australian ' Bundy Bear ' .
Okay, interesting. I will take a look. A good running engine is important. We'd like to put a mower/rotary cutter on this tractor, so I'll need all the ponies there are to run well!
 
I was skeptical about the fuel tank sealant kits. But - I had two tractors with icky tanks, and the repl cost on one of them was pretty high. So - I bit the bullet and bought the POR-15 fuel tank sealant quart per tank.

Take the tank off, clean it three times with water, and if you have a couple ball bearings toss those in and slosh it all around. Start with as clean as possible inside tank. Remove the ball ball bearings. Pour 1/3 of the can in, and slosh it all around. End to end, top to bottom, keep sloshing so the whole interior tank surface is covered. Let it sit overnight. Put in another 1/3 material in and slosh it again. Let it sit for a full day, 23 hours. put some gas in and see how it comes out. I had to do a Ford tank a third time to cover everything inside.

So far, after 2 years, both tanks stay good and clean gas comes out. Seems to have taken care of my bad tank issues. YMMV
Good description. Thank you for this.
I'm going to find a mirror and look inside more. I'm hoping it doesn't need to be sealed.
 
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