JD 350 hay rake - need a new tooth pipe

awhitva

New User
Location
Missouri
I broke a tooth pipe on my JD 350 hay rake - it snaped in two while raking. My local salvage guy in Conway, MO says he only currently has JD 640 and 650 rakes to pull from. Does anyone know if the tooth pipes are the same? I know the diameter is the same, but I am concerned about the length.
 
I will probably have to drive over there and measure myself, which I can do. I am still scratching my head, wondering why the bar (tooth pipe) snapped in the first place. Everything turns freely and was well greased at the time.
 
Time , vibration, fatigue and loads take their toll.
Sources at salvage may be left or right hand delivery.
Believe you need left hand parts.
 
They can be fixed. Weld a shaft inside,or a sleeve outside. Even if you loose a hole,it will work for a long time.I have an IH#35 rake that was fixed like that when I bought it over 20 years ago. Seen others fixed the same.
 
They can be fixed. Weld a shaft inside,or a sleeve outside. Even if you loose a hole,it will work for a long time.I have an IH#35 rake that was fixed like that when I bought it over 20 years ago. Seen others fixed the same.
Thanks - I am going to take it off and take it to my welder and ask him to beef it up - that is probably the easiest fix!
 
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Rake update: the tooth pipe and a few other parts are the same on a JD 894 rake. I found a place online with salvage parts from an 894 rake and some NOS parts. The salvage tooth pipe and a replacement knuckle joint came today - see photos.
 

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Rake update part 2: I figured out why the tooth pipe broke in the first place - the weld on this shaft to the front reel broke and caused the reel to wobble and get off balance. The NOS replacement part just arrived!
 

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While it's good to hear yoy found one, I'm not sure I would have gone to the trouble of finding one myself. Have welded several over the years. With a pipe sleeve welded over top, the repair would be stronger than new. Deere, NH, and IH also used standard sched pipe for their tooth bars (all them used 1-1/4" sched pipe if I remember right - which is about 1-5/8" O.D.), so if you really needed one you could get some sched 80 pipe and make one. The Massey rakes used larger (and heavier wall) pipe, which is one of the reasons we found the Massey rakes to be superior to the Deeres and NH's we had.

I suspect the reason that reel mount bracket (and thus the bar) broke in yours is because - like all three point bar rakes - they don't have any counterbalance springs like the pull-types do. Most three point bar rakes you see are rather beat to heck because of that: You have te whole weight of the basket crashing into every lump and bump. Whereas the pull-types all had balance springs. Not many folks appreciate the effect of the balance springs on bar rakes and how much they reduce the impact load when you hit a rock/bump. For that first inch or two of spring travel the spring is taking 75% of the basket weight, so it's a much lighter impact. And not many people realize how important it is to check and adjust the balance springs on trail-type bar rakes.
 
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