Cost 0f 3600 repair

[Farmer66]

I have a 3 cylinder diesel that has a knock in the lower end. Rod bearings looked very good. Next to last main bearing had worn so copper was showing. It measured 0.0005 inch wear. I can't get to last main but assume it is worn quite a bit more. Tractor is an old family friend so would like to save it. Starts easily and does not smoke.
What would I expect the cost to be if the only the bearings needed to be replaced?

 

[Welding man]

They sell them on this site. Are you talking parts only or parts and labor if you hire someone to do it? You may have a wrist pin bushing worn out.

 

[Texasmark]

I have a 3 cylinder diesel that has a knock in the lower end. Rod bearings looked very good. Next to last main bearing had worn so copper was showing. It measured 0.0005 inch wear. I can't get to last main but assume it is worn quite a bit more. Tractor is an old family friend so would like to save it. Starts easily and does not smoke.
What would I expect the cost to be if the only the bearings needed to be replaced?

Decades (3 at least) ago I did an inflame on the 3600 predecessor, my 3000 3 cyl. a short time after I (absentmindedly) purchased it. The problem was that the PO had run the tractor in a very hazardous environment with the hose between the inlet air filter and the intake manifold missing. The upper part of the engine was a disaster but I had easy access to do the job with new pistons and all that, head to machine shop for valve job and all. I honed the block and put standard dimension parts back in....$1k worth of parts including head work.

I got to the bottom and could remove main and rod caps except for the rear. As I saw it, to get to the rear main to remove it would require the engine to be removed from the tractor. All the bottom elements I removed were still in great shape....I think I was able to replace the rear main seal due to the way it was designed. So I figured the rear main should be in great shape too (no knocking) put the bottom back together and fixed the top end. I still use that tractor and it still runs, starts like it should. On startup I get a little smoke but it clears right up using 15W-40 Dino oil and it uses a little but not much.

HTH

 

[Duner Wi]

Farmer66, What would I expect the cost to be if the only the bearings needed to be replaced?

Mains brgs $78.00 and Rods brgs $30.00 for 3 from this site.
Pan gasket and rear main would be extra.

 

[Farmer66]

What i really wanted to do was replace the main bearings, specifically the last one. I had previously asked if I could split the tractor and get to it from the bottom. From the parts list it looked possible. When I remove the flywheel seems like I can remove the seal and remove the bearing cap. Then maybe I can weasel the top bearing half out. Texamark commented above he replaced the seal, but could not replace the bearing. Could i get a comment from Texamark or others if this is possible. At 78 i feel uncomfortable removing the engine.

 

[ErnieD]

What i really wanted to do was replace the main bearings, specifically the last one. I had previously asked if I could split the tractor and get to it from the bottom. From the parts list it looked possible. When I remove the flywheel seems like I can remove the seal and remove the bearing cap. Then maybe I can weasel the top bearing half out. Texamark commented above he replaced the seal, but could not replace the bearing. Could i get a comment from Texamark or others if this is possible. At 78 i feel uncomfortable removing the engine.

bend a cotter pin and flatten the head. Insert in crank oil hole and ease the crank to back the upper shell out. Have the connecting rod big ends checked for out of round and straightness. Plastigauge new bearings for clearance; too much clearance and you will be disappointed with hot oil pressure. too little and it all hafta come apart.

 

[Welding man]

I have been working on these old tractors for many years and I have a motto: Do not start something that you are not willing or cannot afford to fix right. I have a 3000 Ford diesel in my shop right now for a complete overhaul. Sent the block to be bored, head reworked and the crank checked. Crank looked perfect with the naked eye but I did not like the wear pattern on the tops of the main bearings. I sent the crank too, Crank grinder called me today and said you were right. We had to straighten it and grind it. It was bent, not bad but enough to wear main bearings. How or why it was bent, who knows but it did not knock. I feel you have other problems.

 

[Texasmark]

What i really wanted to do was replace the main bearings, specifically the last one. I had previously asked if I could split the tractor and get to it from the bottom. From the parts list it looked possible. When I remove the flywheel seems like I can remove the seal and remove the bearing cap. Then maybe I can weasel the top bearing half out. Texamark commented above he replaced the seal, but could not replace the bearing. Could i get a comment from Texamark or others if this is possible. At 78 i feel uncomfortable removing the engine.

What else can I say? I didn't want to split the tractor, or lift the engine out or whatever it would take to get at the rear main.........when It didn't look like it needed replacing and operation over the years proved it didn't.

 

[Farmer66]

Texasmark, I assumed you had split the tractor if you replaced the seal. Looking at the parts list shows a one-piece seal. ErnieD describes how to remove the upper half. Anyone know if the back journal has a lube hole that I can use? I had assumed it would not. I had not thought of a bent crank. I can split the tractor but not take the engine out. Any idea what it would cost to have someone take the engine out and replace the bottom bearings, maybe grind the crank? It starts fine and doesn't smoke so no upper end work. I won't live long enough to use it much!
Thanks for the help. I appreciate the opinions.

 

[Texasmark]

Texasmark, I assumed you had split the tractor if you replaced the seal. Looking at the parts list shows a one-piece seal. ErnieD describes how to remove the upper half. Anyone know if the back journal has a lube hole that I can use? I had assumed it would not. I had not thought of a bent crank. I can split the tractor but not take the engine out. Any idea what it would cost to have someone take the engine out and replace the bottom bearings, maybe grind the crank? It starts fine and doesn't smoke so no upper end work. I won't live long enough to use it much!
Thanks for the help. I appreciate the opinions.

No Idea but probably pricy considering what's involved. I don't remember the makeup of the rear seal. It may have been 2 piece. I do recall replacing a 2 piece seal on an engine of some sort. Rotating the crankshaft with the lower half out, and maybe a little coaxing with a piece of wire to help things along is how I got the upper half out. Reverse to get the upper half on top so I could attach the bottom half. On another instance it was a rope seal and the same thing with rotating the crank to help in getting it out.....but those operations have been in the very distant past.