Help John Deere 1020 gas wont start once hot

[Sdr424]

I have a John Deere 1020 gas that will start right up and run great when it’s cold. The problem is, once it gets warmed up and I shut it off, it will not restart. If I let it cool down for a few hours, it starts right back up and runs great again.

The only thing I can think of that has changed is that I installed a PerTronix electronic ignition kit this past winter. The kit came with everything, including the rotor and other components.

I’m wondering if the PerTronix ignition could be causing a heat-related problem. Has anyone else experienced this with a 1020 or another John Deere after installing a PerTronix kit? I have been doing a ton of research, so I need to add a new wire from my ignition to my coil?

What would you check first? Any advice or troubleshooting tips would be appreciated.
Thanks

 

[560Dennis]

What’s the temperature of the ignition coil when this happens? Burning hot ?
Start doing this after you installed the Petronix ?
Something in the Petronix set up about what wire set is needed.

 

[Russ from MN]

I guess the first thing I would do is put the old ignition system back on it, I hope you saved it!

 

[used red MN]

The only thing I can think of that has changed is that I installed a PerTronix electronic ignition kit this past winter. The kit came with everything, including the rotor and other components.

Hello Sdr.. welcome to YT! Whoa are those that live in the realm of the unknown!! I’m taking a guess but it’s an “educated guess” you likely unknowingly removed a system from your tractor that was installed in it at the factory to help eliminate the problem you’re having. Your tractor originally was equipped with a coil with a 1.5 ohm primary circuit which is a 6 volt coil. Then the wire that feeds the coil from the ignition switch was made of a small diameter wire to act as a resistor to drop the voltage fed to the coil to approximately 6 volts. In actuality it adds another 1.5 ohms of resistance to make the primary ignition coil circuit 3 ohms, which is what a coil designed to work on 12 volts has. Then when you started the tractor a wire was energized by the starter solenoid that also feeds the coil. This wire is a normal gauge and provides full 12 volts to the coil when you are cranking it. (You can see it in your photo it is the blue wire) So remember your tractor originally had a 6 volt coil, and bambo, when you cranking the engine originally the 6 volt coil was getting 12 volts to provide a hotter spark. Now what to do? Maybe what Russ said is the best idea.

 

[the tractior vet]

I have a John Deere 1020 gas that will start right up and run great when it’s cold. The problem is, once it gets warmed up and I shut it off, it will not restart. If I let it cool down for a few hours, it starts right back up and runs great again.

The only thing I can think of that has changed is that I installed a PerTronix electronic ignition kit this past winter. The kit came with everything, including the rotor and other components.

I’m wondering if the PerTronix ignition could be causing a heat-related problem. Has anyone else experienced this with a 1020 or another John Deere after installing a PerTronix kit? I have been doing a ton of research, so I need to add a new wire from my ignition to my coil?

What would you check first? Any advice or troubleshooting tips would be appreciated.
Thanks

When they first came out we installed several and they failed , one was on a pulling tractor that we had built with my Accountant , we ran it in four classes with four different drivers . The first TWO pulls it went screaming out the gate and won the classes , then it was my turn in the 6500 lb class , we had just enough time between classes to throw on a 1000 lbs go weigh and go hook , tractor NEVER SHUT off . I hook to the sled and take off i feel the shudder where she hooked to the track and layed into it and i was flyen around 250 feet the ft. end lifted around a foot and the tractor was running flat up against the gov at 19 25 RPM in forth gear when it just shut down dead , nose dropped and the sled hit me hard shoven me another five to ten feet . I was Pizzes , this should not happen this should have been and out the gate shot NOT DOA on the track requiring a TOW off the track . We get it back to my truck and having a really bad temper that dist. came off and the ORG . Dist . went on the one with the OLD FASHIONED POINTS and CONDENSER went in the one i had done the recurve on and while i was doing the work the guys were throwing weights i was getting the timing set ,Then my accountant took it down to weigh and go make his pull that went out the gate like it was suppose to do and layed 75 feet on the closest to him like the other two . We ran that tractor for two years and NOBODY could even sniff it's rear in all four classes . Ya can keep your modern add ons OLD school will never leave ya stranded as long as you know how to file a set of points , have a screw driver and a old fashioned match book cover a folded dollar bill in you pocket . And a pocket knife . So check your coil first it ya can't touch it it is scrap . and if ya can the SCRAP the new tech and go back to OLD SCHOOL as it has worked more then likely longer they you have been on this earth.

 

[Sdr424]

The coil is very hot to the point you can’t hold your hand on it. So probably try a new coil first? Thanks for the help!