Oliver 1850 Steering Motor Hydraulic Lines

[farmersamm]

Does anybody know where to find these lines. The soft lines going directly to the steering motor. I don't believe I can have these fabricated........very convoluted bends on the hard line part.

The steering motor is the original Saginaw motor. Not the Cessna retrofit.

 

[scootergmc]

If I remember correctly, I don't believe anyone is reproducing them, but I've been wrong today.

 

[farmersamm]

I called over to Kims International in Tulsa. The bender guy said he can bend 3/8 to a minimum 1.5" radius, which ought to do it. Then they can crimp the rubber line segment to the hard line. THANK GOD

Thanks Man

I sure appreciate you taking the time to reply.

 

[farmersamm]

These are doozy to get to.

I'd like to bypass the hard bends, but I'm afraid going straight with an all rubber line might lead to some abrasion problems.

 

[rrlund]

Cut the steel lines off as long as you can get them, as near the crimp on the rubber as you can, then get new hoses made with compression fittings on them. Slide the compression fitting over the steel line and tighten the nut. Simple as that. That's what the rest of us have doing for years to repair them.

 

[farmersamm]

Cut the steel lines off as long as you can get them, as near the crimp on the rubber as you can, then get new hoses made with compression fittings on them. Slide the compression fitting over the steel line and tighten the nut. Simple as that. That's what the rest of us have doing for years to repair them.

I've used steel line-to steel line compression fittings with some success. Are you talking about having a rubber hose with a stub steel line on the end?

 

[farmersamm]

I guess I don't know what you're talking about.................gotta pic??

 

[rrlund]

Anywhere that you get hoses made, they should have ends to crimp on that have compression fittings instead of whatever male or female threaded end you would normally have crimped on.

 

[farmersamm]

Cool.................I'll ask them about it.

 

[oliverkid]

You can cut the ends off the hoses. Have the cut end of the tube flared to a standard 37 degree JIC with a tube nut. Then you just have to have a straight male 37 degree JIC fitting crimped on the hose and everything becomes standard easy to source parts. That’s what we do on both the 50 and 55 series steering motors since they both use goofy hard bend ends. It looks nice and clean that way.

 

[farmersamm]

You can cut the ends off the hoses. Have the cut end of the tube flared to a standard 37 degree JIC with a tube nut. Then you just have to have a straight male 37 degree JIC fitting crimped on the hose and everything becomes standard easy to source parts. That’s what we do on both the 50 and 55 series steering motors since they both use goofy hard bend ends. It looks nice and clean that way.

I believe I'd prefer that. Although I've used them..........I'm not fond of compression fittings on hard line.

 

[oliverkid]

I believe I'd prefer that. Although I've used them..........I'm not fond of compression fittings on hard line.

On some of the shorter ones you do have to straighten the bend out slightly to get it in a flare machine. Then you can stick an appropriate sized punch back in the tube and put the full bend back in it.

 

[farmersamm]

Or, taking the easy option.............I could just bypass the whole bend thing with a rubber line. Don't care how it looks, it's behind a ton of sheet metal. But I worry about abrasion, and vibration...........which seems to be the reason they built the thing like this in the first place.

At 70, I'm not particularly worried about long time fixes.............although...........you're dead in the water when these hoses go bad. Suck to be in the field, and have it happen. It's an in situ repair.

 

[oliverkid]

Or, taking the easy option.............I could just bypass the whole bend thing with a rubber line. Don't care how it looks, it's behind a ton of sheet metal. But I worry about abrasion, and vibration...........which seems to be the reason they built the thing like this in the first place.

At 70, I'm not particularly worried about long time fixes.............although...........you're dead in the water when these hoses go bad. Suck to be in the field, and have it happen. It's an in situ repair.

Hydraulic hose won’t make that kind of bend. You would run into clearance issues because you would need more room in pretty much every direction to get multiple hoses stuffed up in there. Plus hose being larger OD it won’t go back in the clamps. Not saying it can’t be done. But it won’t be fun to put it back together and it will fail in short order if you do much with the tractor.

 

[farmersamm]

Hydraulic hose won’t make that kind of bend. You would run into clearance issues because you would need more room in pretty much every direction to get multiple hoses stuffed up in there. Plus hose being larger OD it won’t go back in the clamps. Not saying it can’t be done. But it won’t be fun to put it back together and it will fail in short order if you do much with the tractor.

Wouldn't be worried about the bend. A straight rubber line from the point of origin would bypass the bracket. But I do agree with you in principle. It's better to go back with what's already there. I was just dreaming of an easier fix

You do that when you get old, and tired.

 

[rrlund]

Wouldn't be worried about the bend. A straight rubber line from the point of origin would bypass the bracket. But I do agree with you in principle. It's better to go back with what's already there. I was just dreaming of an easier fixView attachment 161090 You do that when you get old, and tired.

If you think it's work to use compression fittings, you're way overthinking this whole thing. You cut the steel line, have the hoses made, tighten the flare nut and you're done. Everything goes right back where it was, the end.

 

[farmersamm]

If you think it's work to use compression fittings, you're way overthinking this whole thing. You cut the steel line, have the hoses made, tighten the flare nut and you're done. Everything goes right back where it was, the end.

I'll get back with y'all when it's done. Both of you guys have been really good about advice............REALLY.

I have a distrust of compression fittings, always have. It's not a matter of the work right now...........it's a matter of having to repeat the work when a fitting fails. It's just me........don't sweat it. I tend to trust archaic systems.

 

[rrlund]

I'll get back with y'all when it's done. Both of you guys have been really good about advice............REALLY.

I have a distrust of compression fittings, always have. It's not a matter of the work right now...........it's a matter of having to repeat the work when a fitting fails. It's just me........don't sweat it. I tend to trust archaic systems.

I can't even tell you how many I've had made. I never had one fail. You don't even have to take the line off the hydramotor. Cut it off, clean the surface with sand paper and put it together. The fittings are steel, they'll hold up as long as the rest of the tractor is capable of being used. Like I said, don't overthink it. It's an in the field repair. Nothing hard or complicated about it.

 

[farmersamm]

I had to fight for an inch of space to get a wrench on the fitting on the steering motor. I really can't see how you'd get a tube cutter, or zip wheel, in there to cut the hard line at the top of the motor. I seriously can't believe you could do this without removing the fitting at the motor, let alone where the hard line comes off the bracket down below.

 

[farmersamm]

Got my wallet cleaned, and oiled..............................see what they say at the hydraulic place. I hope they treat me gently

Doggone thing only lasted 63yrs