Looking at buying a New Holland TL100A advice needed

[racer765]

Hello everyone,
Local dealer has a New Holland TL100A for sale that I looked at over the weekend. The tractor ran good started right up virtually no smoke (faint white smoke that dissipated quickly at what I would guestimate to be around 1200 rpm steady, no smoke before or after that range (temperature didn't matter hot or cold engine same, possible range when turbo is spooling up) and shifted through all of the gears fine, PTO seemed to turn on/off ok. Tractor was well used and not barn kept (faded hood and yellow/broken headlights). Before I spend $24k on a 22 yr old tractor I wanted some advice. Issues below:

1. Hours are unknown. Instrument cluster is inoperative for the tachometer and hours and other portions of the cluster do not illuminate. Instrumentation lights like the parking brake, flashers, diff lock etc. all illuminated normally along with the clock. Definitely electrical issues (supported below).
2. No power at all with the ignition key. Turn the key on and nothing illuminates, no crank etc. like a completely dead battery. They hooked up a jump box to the starter to get the cluster to illuminate and for it to start with the key. Likely why the cluster doesn't function properly. I'm not that worried about electrical issues as automotive electrical diag is what I specialize in and a tractor is much more basic than what I normally diag. I'm more worried at the unknown hours and later finding it has a ton once I do get it working.
3. No brakes, no mineral oil in the brake reservoir it was empty. I did notice some dampness around the rear wheel ends at the tires but no drips, more of a weeping. Dealer said brakes just needed fluid and to be bled which they would do before delivery. Auto mechanic stating the obvious me says if there are no external leaks with an empty reservoir the wet brake seals are leaking inside the differential. I'm worried they will add conventional brake fluid to swell the seals as a temporary fix or just add fluid and bleed which will eventually leak out instead of replacing the seals. Am I correct in that assumption? Although technically capable of doing that job myself, I'd rather have that fixed than deal with it in the near future. I'll be having that discussion with them this week.
4. Diesel fluid leak on the return side (fuel constantly dripping while running) and multiple hydraulic leaks on the lines underneath. I wasn't sure if it's coming from the fittings or from the valvebody because it was all wet. They said they would fix the diesel fuel leak and the hydraulic leaks. I'm not that worried about leaks as most are easily fixed and fairly common on older tractors. I'd be more worried if its leaking from the valvebody which is around $1,200.
5. Tires. All of the tires showed pretty decent bulges in the sidewall under every tread. Some dry rot but no crazy cracks. It looked like a sidewall of a car driven with a flat tire. I could flex them in and out by hand, diameter roughly that of a mini basketball. Dealer said that's completely normal for Goodyear tires and they all do that with nothing to worry about. This would be my first experience with metric tractor tires. None of my older tractors have bulges like that in the sidewalls. I'm not sure if the normal statement is accurate?
6. A/C compressor issues. Turn the A/C compressor on and belt squeels like a locked up compressor. However, I can turn the compressor clutch by hand without much resistance with the engine off. I'm thinking a belt issue but it felt tight with little flex which has me on the fence with that opinion. A/C will be a big deal for me farming hay fields in the summer with a full cab.

I know it's a lot to unpack, I tried to not be too wordy. Price point ok with the above issues or way off base? New farmer just getting into farming if it wasn't obvious . Thank you for your help.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Sounds like typical issues for a 100A. Scary part is that most tractors don't have all of them at the same time. Depending on transmission options, the value is still in question. The more electronics involved the more problems down the road and it seems to have plenty already. Not hard to guess why it was traded in. Your choice, but my suggestion is pass on it.

 

[MARK ROBKE]

Sounds like a hard pass, unless it is VERY cheap. Mark.

 

[racer765]

Sounds like a hard pass, unless it is VERY cheap. Mark.

Hi Mark, I'm new to this new and this size of a tractor. Most of my stuff is older (MF 165 with perkins diesel type vintage). What price range would be considered very cheap? Thank you.

 

[wh]

As the movie said - run forest, run! Sounds like a money pit.

 

[MARK ROBKE]

Hi Mark, I'm new to this new and this size of a tractor. Most of my stuff is older (MF 165 with perkins diesel type vintage). What price range would be considered very cheap? Thank you.

I am unfamiliar with that model. I usually check various sites for prices before ever considering any major purchase. But, we had a local Ford/New Holland dealer who gave up on them, because of the warranty issues, and became a Kubota dealer. Mark.

 

[showcrop]

The clutch packs, as well as hydraulic pump could be very high on wear, and be unable to make/hold pressure once the oil gets hot. Both could need complete over haul/replace to the tune of $15,000-$20,000.

 

[Stan Coryell]

The fact that the dealership hasn't invested money in it would make me skeptical.

 

[Tx Jim]

Sounds high to me. I didn't see where you stated tractor was a MFWD or had a frt end loader

 

[racer765]

Sounds high to me. I didn't see where you stated tractor was a MFWD or had a frt end loader

Hi Jim, It is MFWD and does have a 52L loader. Manual shift also not electronic.

 

[wh]

I would think if all those issues were simple that dealer would fix. Is dealer offering any warranty or as is where is? Run forest, run!!!!

 

[racer765]

I would think if all those issues were simple that dealer would fix. Is dealer offering any warranty or as is where is? Run forest, run!!!!

Offered as is where is. Dealer said they would fix the fuel and hydraulic leaks as well as the no power with the ignition. As far as the brakes, they said they would add fluid and bleed the brakes to get them working. Unless these wet brake systems normally leak a little fluid requiring fluid to be added periodically I think that would only be temporary (I'm not that familiar with the NH wet brake systems). I suspect the seals in the differential are leaking the fluid and will likely need to be replaced.

 

[scootergmc]

Offered as is where is. Dealer said they would fix the fuel and hydraulic leaks as well as the no power with the ignition. As far as the brakes, they said they would add fluid and bleed the brakes to get them working.

Sounds like exactly what the sales department would say without first talking to the service department. I'm betting there's more to those leaks and the brakes than meets their eyes.

 

[Harry in Ky]

As I see it, you came here (and elsewhere) asking for advice concerning this tractor. So far the replies all favor staying away from it. I get the feeling you don't agree. Your choice.

 

[ss55]

Hi Mark, I'm new to this new and this size of a tractor. Most of my stuff is older (MF 165 with perkins diesel type vintage). What price range would be considered very cheap? Thank you.

Any pictures?

Sounds like this twenty year old tractor might have had a hard life on a large dairy farm or a cattle feedlot. If this needs to be a working tractor that you need to rely on, free might be too expensive to consider taking it home. If you are looking for a challenging restoration project and have money to burn, go for it.

This tractor should still have some value as a parts tractor or to a salvage yard, plus the value of the loader. The condition of the coolant, hydraulic oil and the loader should be a good indicator of the condition of the rest of the tractor. Sounds like the dealer does not want to try making it field ready, they have already determined that would be a money pit. Eventually the dealer will most likely dispose of it at an auction.

 

[racer765]

As I see it, you came here (and elsewhere) asking for advice concerning this tractor. So far the replies all favor staying away from it. I get the feeling you don't agree. Your choice.

Hi Harry, trust me I appreciate the general consensus and advice. I was hoping there might be someone with first hand experience with the New Hollands to help add some more insight. The general consensus though is pretty well spoken. I know farming and budget don't usually fall into the same categories. The problem I run into is budget and wanting to "save" every piece of equipment I come across. There are some redeeming qualities to the tractor such as filters with dates showing some maintenance was performed in the past (oil filter was 2024) and the operation of the tractor in general seeming to run ok. Although, lot driving and field testing are two completely different things. The question I struggle with is do all of the other issues negate the redeeming qualities. The responses lean against that. I have a 100 acre farm that is more of a homestead than a money generating machine. Budget is tight which pushes me towards the lower end of the cost spectrum. I find myself buying equipment that needs work which I can do but at what point is it no longer worth it. On this particular tractor, it's the unknown high cost pitfalls that worry me. I can fix just about anything, but the general consensus with everything going on with it and what damage could be hidden lurking internally from the previous owner ignoring the leaks etc. would be more than what the tractor is worth. I was looking at the TL100A's online today and it looks like they average $39k-50k depending on hours and condition. Those were much nicer than this one which explains the lower price point. Which brings the question is there a price that would be low enough to be worth the risk? Most 100hp tractors are well outside of my budget which is why I think I keep trying to talk myself into this one.

 

[Harry in Ky]

In fact I have that experience. I was with a New Holland dealership when those tractors were sold new. I saw plenty of them. The TL series weren't bad tractors as long as you didn't get into the power shift/power shuttle machines. The TLA versions were a different story. They were a pile from the get go. The only saving grace from my perspective would be that it's still better than the TSA.

Even if you do all the repairs yourself, the cost of parts involved might be a disappointment. Assuming it's 4WD I would be questioning the condition of the front drive shaft coupler and pinion shaft spline condition. The overall condition you describe leans one to doubt the front axle pivot bushings ever saw much grease. Then how far from the top of pedal travel does the clutch engage?

The CNH Cummins engine would be about the best feature of the tractor. The only exception to that might be the particular version of injection pump used. The rest of the machine is a project in the making. The initial cost might be within budget constraints, but that will catch up down the road.

You might look again for a TL90 or TL100 and let the A model go by.

 

[scootergmc]

Hi Harry, trust me I appreciate the general consensus and advice. I was hoping there might be someone with first hand experience with the New Hollands to help add some more insight. The general consensus though is pretty well spoken.

I have a friend who was a NH field tech for a couple of decades before recently changing jobs. He has a gaggle of experience on these. I've always asked him about the tractors when these threads get posted, except for this one, mostly because I don't need to. Aside from whatever model specific issues (probably the stuff mentioned by Harry) they had, in the condition in which you describe it he would laugh at me and tell me to just light the money on fire, or take to the casino and at least get some entertainment before it's gone. The only positive I can think he would mention is it's pre-def, etc.

It sounds like this tractor was parked after it broke down, it sat long enough (probably a couple years at least) to have the tires go flat, all the seals rot, and then was traded in for something else. Dealer then inflates the tires, mechanics get it going, lot boy pressure washes it, and they list it for sale, then worry about anything else if they get someone on the hook.

Where's it located? Does the dealer have it listed online? I mean maybe it is fair, but the $24k price point certainly suggests it probably needs at least $10k in parts and labor at the outset.

Edit: This one sure matches your description (but I can't see it too well)-----> https://www.donstractorsales.com/default.asp?page=xPreOwnedInventoryDetail&id=18743094&p=1&s=(Sort By)&d=D&sq=TL100A&fr=xPreOwnedInventory

 

[Welding man]

RUN -don't walk. Blue Paint don't make a Ford. I had a TL 90 set in a bay of my shop for 13 months trying to get the parts to fix the wonderful Iveco engine. I will no longer work on New Hollands. Just my experience. It's your choice.

 

[racer765]

Scooter, that's the one. Tires look good in the pictures, they don't show the bulges in the sidewalls that you see in person. I had to do a double take in when I looked at it to make sure it was the same one.