Ok. What oil to use in tranny and rearend on 52 tea 20?

GSW

Member
I know this has been floating around for months on here.
I have 21 liters of universal trans and hydraulic oil. Can I use it in my tractor? Will it hurt anything?
I didn't want to buy all that 15 40 oil...that some suggest. I want to change it soon,it's like a brown milkshake. Some say they use it,some say too thin,will leak.
Give me the scuttlebut.
 
HF TO 20 and TEA20 take 24 qts. of mineral oil, SAE80 oil <50°F, and SAE 90 >50°F. Use this reference PDF (pg 7) but remove the space in the web address.
https://www.n tractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Ferguson%20TO-20%20-%20Operation%20and%20Maintenance.pdf
 
HF TO 20 and TEA20 take 24 qts. of mineral oil, SAE80 oil <50°F, and SAE 90 >50°F. Use this reference PDF (pg 7) but remove the space in the web address.
https://www.n tractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Ferguson%20TO-20%20-%20Operation%20and%20Maintenance.pdf
So thats definate? No universal trans hydro oil?
 
Couldn't open link
remove the space between the n and t, after copying the link into a new tab. For some reason the YT software doesn't like that web address, so I have to insert a space in order to show the address.
 
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I know this has been floating around for months on here.
I have 21 liters of universal trans and hydraulic oil. Can I use it in my tractor? Will it hurt anything?
I didn't want to buy all that 15 40 oil...that some suggest. I want to change it soon,it's like a brown milkshake. Some say they use it,some say too thin,will leak.
Give me the scuttlebut.
You have asked the question which draws some of the strongest opinions at this site.

"Can I use it in my tractor?" - Yes. All you have to do is pour it in and you'll be using it.

"Will it hurt anything?" IMO, no. Indeed, the manual calls for 80w/90w depending on temperature. When the tractor was manufactured and the manual was written modern UTF was not available. Would they have specified UTF if it had been? We can only speculate.

I have three TO-30's which play dedicated roles on my small fruit farm. One has 90w, one has UTF, and one I'm not sure (oil looks good, I've not changed it since I purchased the tractor 3 years ago). I am not plowing 40 acres with any of them.

Some practical considerations. UTF is thinner, if there is any leaks, particularly in the hydraulic system, they will be exacerbated. If the cylinder leaks you'll find it bounce up and down more frequently. If you have external leaks, you should fix them anyway. You'll find the hydraulic system noticeably quicker, especially as the temperature drops. When cold, you'll find the hydraulic system demands noticeably less power.

80-90w demands a lot more engine power to operate the hydraulic system and turn the transmission as the temperature goes down. Below freezing you'll want to have the engine well warmed up before engaging the clutch or the hydraulic pump, and then you'll find the action quite slow. As a practical matter, I am not changing oil between 90w and 80w twice a year as the seasons change.

That's my experience with the hydraulics. What about bearing/gear lubrication, the other function the oil provides? Practically, the way I use these tractors, I am confident that either type of oil will work fine. I feel that if UTF is specified/adequate in more modern, higher HP tractors, how can it not be adequate in our 30 HP machines?

I don't follow the manual instructions on single weight engine oil and change it depending on temperature, almost everything gets modern multi-grade engine oil. In the same regard, I don't think it necessary to follow the manual on transmission/hydraulic/differential oil either. We are out of the warranty period....

Others may have differing opinions.
 
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You have asked the question which draws some of the strongest opinions at this site.

"Can I use it in my tractor?" - Yes. All you have to do is pour it in and you'll be using it.

"Will it hurt anything?" IMO, no. Indeed, the manual calls for 80w/90w depending on temperature. When the tractor was manufactured and the manual was written modern UTF was not available. Would they have specified UTF if it had been? We can only speculate.

I have three TO-30's which play dedicated roles on my small fruit farm. One has 90w, one has UTF, and one I'm not sure (oil looks good, I've not changed it since I purchased the tractor 3 years ago). I am not plowing 40 acres with any of them.

Some practical considerations. UTF is thinner, if there is any leaks, particularly in the hydraulic system, they will be exacerbated. If the cylinder leaks you'll find it bounce up and down more frequently. If you have external leaks, you should fix them anyway. You'll find the hydraulic system noticeably quicker, especially as the temperature drops. When cold, you'll find the hydraulic system demands noticeably less power.

80-90w demands a lot more engine power to operate the hydraulic system and turn the transmission as the temperature goes down. Below freezing you'll want to have the engine well warmed up before engaging the clutch or the hydraulic pump, and then you'll find the action quite slow. As a practical matter, I am not changing oil between 90w and 80w twice a year as the seasons change.

That's my experience with the hydraulics. What about bearing lubrication, the other function the oil provides? Practically, the way I use these tractors, I am confident that either type of oil will work fine. I feel that if UTF is specified/adequate in more modern, higher HP tractors, how can it not be adequate in our 30 HP machines?

I don't follow the manual instructions on single weight engine oil and change it depending on temperature, almost everything gets modern multi-grade engine oil. In the same regard, I don't think it necessary to follow the manual on transmission/hydraulic/differential oil either. We are out of the warranty period....

Others may have differing opinions.
Well that gives.me my answer. Hydro/ trans its going to get. I have to chage it soon...its milky. Thanks !!!
 
Well that gives.me my answer. Hydro/ trans its going to get. I have to chage it soon...its milky. Thanks !!!
"...It's milky..."

Be sure the boot on the gear shift lever is in good condition. It's the most common place for water infiltration.
 
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