Still no spark Ferguson TEA20

[mikeysgarage]

Hi everyone, gathered a lot of info and help here on this platform and am looking for some more!
I've been slowly restoring an old tea20 tractor that has been sitting 10+ years. I've come down to having rewired a lot of it and am finding I have no spark.
Coil has good primary and secondary readings, I just replaced the points and condenser, gapped to 0.015 and have a new distributor head and plug leads. I had a test light on the negative feed as we cranked over the engine the test light was blinking so I know the points are working properly. I took the coil wire out and tested it 1/4" from ground but had no spark, does anyone have any ideas on what I could try next or what might be causing the issue?
My only thought is that maybe the little insulator screw attached to the points and condenser are grounding out as the top hat insulator was pretty malformed, but would this issue have allowed for the test light to blink when I tested the points?
Thanks again for all the knowledge!

 

[Jim.ME]

If it was grounded at the insulator in the side of the distributor it would not blink the test light.

 

[Gambles]

Of course, none of us here can properly troubleshoot your tractor because we are not there. But I’m almost suspecting the coil. Or maybe an open coil wire.
Got a known good coil you can substitute in?

 

[a49deere]

where did you try to test 1/4" spark? Was it the same "Negative feed"? Could you have ground at one spot and not the other?

 

[mikeysgarage]

No, no spare coils around. I tried testing the coil plug wire out of the distributor side 1/4" from ground, I found a good ground with my test light and used that. I've been thinking more about it and I think I'm not getting sufficient voltage to the coil from ignition. Most of the wiring on the tractor was dusted and I must have wired something wrong if everything spark related tests that its operating correctly

 

[Brown David]

Test your coil.

"To test the coil connect the ohmeter's two test leads to the coils primary terminals (+ and -). Most coils should read between 0.4 and 2 ohms. Zero resistance would indicate a shorted coil while a high resistance reading would indicate and open coil.

Secondary resistance is measured between the positive (+) terminal and high voltage output terminal. Newer coils with segmented core construction typically read 6,000 to 8,000 ohms, while others can read as high as 15,000 ohms."


From one of the many sources of the above info.

https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=49802

 

[mikeysgarage]

Yeah my coil read fine, it was about 1.8 on the primary and around 11k on the secondary but no spark came from the coil wire when I tried it

 

[matthies]

Try a different condenser. A new customer of mine fought with a no start jubilee ford for a while, had multiple people look at it. I finally made it to him and found it had no spark, asked for another condenser, put it on and it ran.

 

[T@G]

I had a similiar situation while ago with my TED20. My coil said its seen enough. I thougth to replace whole ignition at once what was a mistake. Parts shop supplied Sparex-branded parts.
I bought new coil, obviously, new plug and coil wires, plugs, rotator and cap, condenser, points.

Long story short. New condenser was faulty from get go. Excessive sparking at points. Bought OE Bosch condenser meant for Volvo Amazon and whatever. Easy to add on original spot. No more sparking at points.

Still no ignite-> also the new rotator was faulty. Despite it showing infinite resistance ( only 9 volts at multimeter), it was porous/ thin enough casting, that the spark from coil grounded through distributor shaft; therefore never providing spark via plugs.

But in your situation, and from what youve told, id vote for condenser aswell.