Long 350 won’t start

[catldavis]

Hello all,

I’ve acquired a Long 350 from an estate sale that has been sitting outside for many years. I’m new to tractors, but put a battery in it. I tried the key, nothing. The solenoid is getting +12V. The tractor rolls free in neutral. What’s the recommendation for getting it running?

 

[rrlund]

Hello all,

I’ve acquired a Long 350 from an estate sale that has been sitting outside for many years. I’m new to tractors, but put a battery in it. I tried the key, nothing. The solenoid is getting +12V. The tractor rolls free in neutral. What’s the recommendation for getting it running?

If it's like the other branded versions of that tractor, they don't start with the key. The key is the light switch. There might be another switch on the dash that rotates that activates the starter. The key has to be on to the first click for that switch to work.

 

[JimB2]

There is probably a clutch and possibly transmission neutral safety switch in series with the Start position on the ignition switch.
The clutch pedal has to be held down and the transmission gear shifts in Neutral.
As a test, you could bypass directly from Start term on Ignition switch to the S-Terminal on the starter solenoid.
Also verify the battery has a good -VE ground cable and good connection to the tractor frame.

I did an AI search, see below:
Link to Long Neutral Switch on Amazon:

Amazon.com : ACTIVLIFE for Long Tractor TX14833 Neutral Safety Start Switch 2610 350 360 445DT 560 610DTE : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com : ACTIVLIFE for Long Tractor TX14833 Neutral Safety Start Switch 2610 350 360 445DT 560 610DTE : Patio, Lawn & Garden

www.amazon.com

AI says the Long 350 only has a transmission Neutral Switch on the Hi/Lo Range shifter.

AI Mode Conversation: Is there a clutch and transmission safety switch on a Long 350 tractor​

Is there a clutch and transmission safety switch on a Long 350 tractor












Yes, the Long 350 tractor features a transmission neutral safety switch to prevent the engine from cranking while the tractor is in gear. [1, 2]

Key Details & Operation

• The Switch Type: It uses a dedicated Neutral Safety Switch (OEM Part Number: TX14833) rather than a modern clutch-pedal-activated switch. [1, 2]
• How It Works: The switch serves as a circuit interrupter between the ignition key switch and the starter solenoid. The circuit only completes when the transmission shifter (specifically the high/low range selector lever) is physically placed in the Neutral position. [1, 2]
• Location: The switch is generally located on top of the transmission housing or integrated directly into the transmission shift linkage assembly. [1]

Troubleshooting a No-Start Condition
If your Long 350 won't crank and you suspect the safety switch is the issue:

• Wiggle the Shifter: Try gently wiggling or firmly reseating the high/low gear range lever while turning the key to see if the contacts are misaligned. [1, 2]
• Check the Wires: Look under the transmission tunnel cover/housing area to ensure the two wires running to the switch haven't been unplugged or corroded. [1, 2]
• Test Continuity: Disconnect the wires and use a multimeter to check for electrical continuity across the switch pins only when the shifter is in neutral. [1, 2]

Are you currently troubleshooting a starting issue on your Long 350, or are you looking to replace/bypass a failing switch?

 

[rrlund]

I forgot about that, but ya, it has to have the high low shift in neutral.

 

[Jim in NC]

All our family's Long tractors require the transmisson to be in neutral. The clutch.pedal does not need to be pushed down. I recently acquired a 460 that had been parked for over 3 years. The starter solenoid would click but would not engage the starter. I had a rebuilt starter on hand and will work on the other one this winter. As others have said the OEM key switch will not engage the starter. There is a lever type switch moumted on the left dash top beside the steering wheel that is pushed for starting.

 

[used red MN]

I’ve acquired a Long 350 from an estate sale that has been sitting outside for many years.

Is this a different tractor then the one in your thread from November of 2025?
Previous Long 350 start trouble thread

 

[catldavis]

Is this a different tractor then the one in your thread from November of 2025?
Previous Long 350 start trouble thread

Yes! I remember you were a great help with my starter issue in the other tractor.

 

[catldavis]

All our family's Long tractors require the transmisson to be in neutral. The clutch.pedal does not need to be pushed down. I recently acquired a 460 that had been parked for over 3 years. The starter solenoid would click but would not engage the starter. I had a rebuilt starter on hand and will work on the other one this winter. As others have said the OEM key switch will not engage the starter. There is a lever type switch moumted on the left dash top beside the steering wheel that is pushed for starting.

Thank you, this was very helpful. The other Long 350 I had was changed to a push button start where the key is. I was able to get it to try and start a couple times - it was more a thud when the starter hit the flywheel but it wouldn’t turn over - but it melted the positive battery cable in two.

 

[used red MN]

Yes! I remember you were a great help with my starter issue in the other tractor.

The thing about a tractor setting for a while particularly one that has the exhaust sticking up in the air is that they can get rain water down into the engine and rust the pistons tight in the cylinder locking the engine. Even from normal weather change in temperature and humidity can cause condensation in the cylinders doing the same thing. So even though the tractor “rolls free” that has nothing to do with whether the engine can turn or not.
Make sure that the transmission is in neutral and take a screwdriver and touch it across the two terminals in the photo with the red line between them and see if that turns the engine.
After I wrote that above I see this.

I was able to get it to try and start a couple times, but it melted the positive battery cable in two.

In this reply you are talking about your second tractor that is the subject of this thread? If so that must mean the engine turned when you engaged the starter? Very confusing reply.

 

[catldavis]

The thing about a tractor setting for a while particularly one that has the exhaust sticking up in the air is that they can get rain water down into the engine and rust the pistons tight in the cylinder locking the engine. Even from normal weather change in temperature and humidity can cause condensation in the cylinders doing the same thing. So even though the tractor “rolls free” that has nothing to do with whether the engine can turn or not.
Make sure that the transmission is in neutral and take a screwdriver and touch it across the two terminals in the photo with the red line between them and see if that turns the engine.
After I wrote that above I see this.

In this reply you are talking about your second tractor that is the subject of this thread? If so that must mean the engine turned when you engaged the starter? Very confusing reply.
View attachment 161566

Sorry for the confusion

This is the same model tractor, but a different tractor from my previous post. I have just acquired this tractor.

The engine attempted to crank in the sense I can hear the starter attempt to turn the fly wheel - almost a thud if you will - but it wasn’t turning it so I let off of the cranking lever when it was evident it wasn’t going to start. I did this a couple times, and saw smoke from the front of the tractor and saw that the positive battery cable was melted completely in two.

The tractor’s exhaust was removed. Therefore, no water was going directly in to the engine as the exhaust manifold opening faces downward. However, your comment about the change of temps causing moisture is well founded in Florida.

 

[used red MN]

Sorry for the confusion

This is the same model tractor, but a different tractor from my previous post. I have just acquired this tractor.

The engine attempted to crank in the sense I can hear the starter attempt to turn the fly wheel - almost a thud if you will - but it wasn’t turning it so I let off of the cranking lever when it was evident it wasn’t going to start. I did this a couple times, and saw smoke from the front of the tractor and saw that the positive battery cable was melted completely in two.

The tractor’s exhaust was removed. Therefore, no water was going directly in to the engine as the exhaust manifold opening faces downward. However, your comment about the change of temps causing moisture is well founded in Florida.

With the tractor on a hard/semi hard surface place the transmission in the highest gear (road speed). Rock the tractor back and forth with all you got by pushing/pulling on the top lugs of the rear tire, watch the engine fan while doing this to see if it/ the engine turns or moves.

 

[catldavis]

Here’s a video with tractor in 6th gear and me rocking it as hard as my 200 lbs will rock it. As you can see, nothing bulged:

 

[used red MN]

Here’s a video with tractor in 6th gear and me rocking it as hard as my 200 lbs will rock it. As you can see, nothing bulged:


View attachment 161569
View attachment 161569

Now you’re going to have to decide how monetarily deep and how much labor you want to commit to making this a running machine. Might as well come clean an reveal what you paid for it. In all honesty my thinking is all you have there is a parts tractor. In this attached thread is an example of what you might run into when the engine is opened up. Past rusted and stuck piston thread Granted that’s a severe case where rain water was likely known to be getting in the engine.
Does the radiator have any coolant in it? Loosen the engine oil drain plug and see if water/antifreeze/coolant drips out, if so drain it and see how much. The engine may have had a head gasket problem when parked. Then coolant leaked into a cylinder and provided your result.

 

[catldavis]

I don’t see any rust when I open the fill cap on the valve cover. In addition, the oil is all black without any signs of water.

I’m thinking remove the injectors and pour vinegar in it and let it soak for a couple days and then try to crank it again.

 

[used red MN]

I don’t see any rust when I open the fill cap on the valve cover. In addition, the oil is all black without any signs of water.

I’m thinking remove the injectors and pour vinegar in it and let it soak for a couple days and then try to crank it again.

Suit yourself, worth a try. I however am less then hopeful that you will have any positive results. You can buy small diameter flexible endoscopes for less than $30 that connect to your phone which would allow you to look in the cylinders once the injector is out. Mine is a DBpower brand.

 

[used red MN]

One thing to remember is once you pour something that is more water based in the cylinder like vinegar any kind of lubrication or penetrating oil you put in there is going to float on top and will not be of any assistance as a lubricant where it is needed.

 

[Jimmydog]

I'm going to second what red MN said. Both posts. I would go with automatic transmission fluid. When you mentioned vinegar I thought yeah that might be a novel way to remove any rust but Red makes a good point. Tranny fluid tends to really infiltrate every crack and crevice (ever get any in your hair?) residual water might impede that. Let the tranny fluid soak for a couple days and put it in high gear and give it a gentle tug or two with your other tractor. Oh and let us know how things turn out.

Those borescopes really are the bees knees. The first time I used mine I found a wholly intact yellow jacket in a stuck engine cylinder.