Restoring a Massey Ferguson 200-4

destari

New User
Location
Oklahoma
Hey all, I wanted to post a timeline of restoring my grandfather's 1978 Massey Ferguson 200-4, and use this as a way to ask a few questions along the way.

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To start, the 200-4 seems to be a ghost as far as origin goes. My grandfather originally imported it from Japan and it appears like it is actually a Toyosha tractor at heart. The closest comparisons I can find *any* documentation of are the 205 and 205-4 from around the same time period, but thankfully their controls, parts etc seem extremely similar. It has a 1.1L 2-cylinder Toyosha diesel engine in it that puts out a little less than 20 hp, and as of writing has only 158 hours on it.

My grandfather left the tractor to sit for around 2 decades out in the weather, which has been less than great for it's wellbeing and I am now taking up it's restoration so I can put it back to work. We just purchased 40 acres of land to homestead and I think this tractor will be a great, reliable tool to help me get things started.

To start with, the tractor was buried in trees, on flat tires, with a half-tank of fuel and a flail mower still attached.

View attachment PXL_20260617_011324674 (1).jpg

I drained the old diesel, replaced the split-open fuel filter with a temporary inline filter and put in some quick wiring to get it to crank. The wiring is shot from rodents and weather, but all I had to do was get the starter and glowplugs working. Unfortunately we couldn't find the key for it, so I replaced the keyswitch with a Kubota part with the same general wiring setup. I had to bleed the air from the fuel system which ended up being a long, annoying process, but after a couple of hours I was able to get fuel, preheat, and it started right up.

Getting tires on it was challenge #2, it had 7-20 rear tires which are apparently a size lost to time. I was able to find 7.50-20 fits well enough, so got new tires put on and was finally able to move it to the garage.

My current laundry list is as follows:
1. New tires (already done)
2. Get the mower disconnected
3. Replace a blown wheel seal on the right rear wheel
4. Fluid changes
5. Clean the fuel tank
6. Replace various dried, split rubber seals/gaskets/boots
7. Replace broken zerks and repack everything
8. Replace the temporary fuel filter with a better one
9. Completely new wiring
10. New headlights and field light
11. Paint
12. Steering wheel and seat

It's going to be an involved process, and I'm unfamiliar with tractors specifically, but know my way around diesels and general mechanics/electrics, so I am hoping I won't have too much trouble and I'll learn a lot along the way.
 
And now my first roadblock, if anyone has any advice.
The PTO shaft seems to be well and truly stuck. The shaft spins, I was able to turn over the mower, and it doesn't seem seized on the splines of the tractor output either, I can get it to wiggle just a little bit, but the release button on the u-joint portion of the shaft just does. not. budge.

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I've soaked it in penetrating oil, a little bit of heat (not much, I was concerned about overheating the seal on the PTO output), tapped it with a hammer and a bar and I can't even get the button to budge. The clip on top, I believe, is it to indicate the depth the pin needs to be pushed in to release the lock. The pin doesn't rotate, move up or down, nothing. The guard is welded onto the tractor so I can't unbolt it to get it out of the way, and I'm concerned I might end up having to remove the guard and cut this shaft off.

Any advice?
 
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Welcome to the Forums.

Patience, don't start cutting things yet. Lightly tap on the pin with a hammer, vibration should free it; it might take a bit before it frees. Are you putting penetrating oil in the hole at the opposite end of the pin? You could also try using a punch to tap the other end of thepin. Tap one way then the other.

There is a dedicated Massey Harris & Massey Ferguson Forum here in the manufacturers section. You might want to post about this on that forum. Not saying you won't get some answers here just that sometimes there are people who only follow one of the specific forums, not a general one like this.
 
I did put oil in both ends of the opening. After about 2 hours of trying to work the pin this morning, I still have no movement. Unfortunately, I can't directly tap the pin with a hammer, the guard blocks my access, so I am having to use a bar, levered against the guard to get at it. I'm not sure I would be able to get a punch into the other side, but I will see if that's possible.
 
I did put oil in both ends of the opening. After about 2 hours of trying to work the pin this morning, I still have no movement. Unfortunately, I can't directly tap the pin with a hammer, the guard blocks my access, so I am having to use a bar, levered against the guard to get at it. I'm not sure I would be able to get a punch into the other side, but I will see if that's possible.
With the PTO out of gear, you should be able to turn the shaft such that you can get better access to the pin. If need be, drill a 1/2" hole in the guard in line with the pin so you can use a punch to tap with the hammer. Direct impact through a punch will be better than trying to use a bar to tap on.
 
That did it! I thought the same and was able to get away with a 3/8 hole just large enough for a punch to line up from the bottom, and then was able to get some movement after tapping the back side of the pin. The grease inside was basically roofing tar, the pin didn't move back into locked position until I cleaned it with solvent.

I however, immediately ran into the next issue, HA!
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Likely with the change in tire profile, I don't have enough clearance to remove the draft links from the fixed pins on the mower. I believe the implement is slightly wider than this tractor was designed for.
 
That did it! I thought the same and was able to get away with a 3/8 hole just large enough for a punch to line up from the bottom, and then was able to get some movement after tapping the back side of the pin. The grease inside was basically roofing tar, the pin didn't move back into locked position until I cleaned it with solvent.

I however, immediately ran into the next issue, HA!
View attachment 162054

Likely with the change in tire profile, I don't have enough clearance to remove the draft links from the fixed pins on the mower. I believe the implement is slightly wider than this tractor was designed for.
Are the rims dished out with the new tires (as they are in your first picture)? The mower is likely category 1, and the tractor was designed for category 0 implements. You may be able to turn the pins end for end so the arms will be inside the frame rather than outside as they are now to improve clearance between the arms and tires.
 
The tires fill the rims completely and are centered. They don't seem dramatically larger than previous (hard to tell given how flat the old ones were), but are the same profile and R1 tread as before. But what I am noticing is they flipped the rims around, which I would guess is used to change the width, so that might have brought the wheels closer together.

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I think I will have to lift the tractor and swap the wheels to opposite sides, to get them further apart and keep the tires rotating in the right direction.
 
I have been an old Ford enthusiast for many years, and some forty years ago I became aware of the small Ford tractors of the seventies and eighties that were imported from Japan, built by Shibaura. Over the years there have been numerous posts about the abandoning or scrapping of these tractors due to the unavailability of major parts.
 
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