Changing V-belts with a loader

[4140 or bust]

I can't believe I need help changing belts of all things. I have a 64 Ford 4000 Industrial 4 cyl gas with a 724 loader. Need to change the belts out and I already removed the mounting bolts from the front hydraulic pump, but that doesnt give enough clearance. I have read in other threads to loosen the bolster bolts(red circles) and pry it forward to give another 1/4" clearance for the belts. If I do that, what is the proper way to support the tractor so it doesnt want to cave in to where I cant get the bolts back together. I was thinking of jacking up the front axle and putting it on jack stands then using a jack to support the rear under the tranny. Is that a good plan? I was also thinking of just removing the crank pump hub and pulley (blue circle) but not sure there is enough clearance to pull those bolts out. What a mess to change out some belts.

 

[pomester]

The easy way out is to purchase segmented v-belts. I had the same situation on a 4500. This turned a major job into an easy one. Still working 10 years later.

 

[4140 or bust]

The easy way out is to purchase segmented v-belts. I had the same situation on a 4500. This turned a major job into an easy one. Still working 10 years later.
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Thanks! I was looking at those but had already ordered the PS pump belt. Not big loss though. Where did you pick yours up? Harbor Freight has them but not sure those are HD enough. They don’t mention tractors as an application.

 

[pomester]

Thanks! I was looking at those but had already ordered the PS pump belt. Not big loss though. Where did you pick yours up? Harbor Freight has them but not sure those are HD enough. They don’t mention tractors as an application.

I think I got mine on ebay - Amazon has them, later I found them at an electric motor shop. Grainger's? McMaster? Probably. Be sure to get the correct width. They do stretch a bit with use, install them as short/tight as you can. It's not particularly difficult to shorten them after running several hours, but it's even easier not to.

 

[4140 or bust]

I ended up buying V-link belts are Harbor Freight, but I already had ordered a belt online that would cost me to return. So I ended up removing the front pump hub so that I could push the pump shaft forward enough to give me clearance to remove the old belts. Once that shaft was moved up, the belts came out fairly easily. I took some pics to show what I did.

First, I removed the 1/2" mounting bolts from the pump flanges. Then I pushed the pump drive shaft as far toward the engine as I could (placed a socket between the hub and the pump hoping that would keep the shaft back, but it just all moved into the big hole on the mounting bracket, so I held the shaft back by hand). I then took a flat pry bar and pried the pump forward at one of the flanges while holding the drive shaft back. This allowed the pump splines to slip out of the hub. I held the pump forward by sticking a socket in there that was about an inch long. I was going to do the other side, but one gave enough clearance. I then proceeded to remove the hub bolts with a 5/8 ratcheting wrench. I stuck a big screwdriver into the hub to turn the engine... and as I write this, I am realizing that I turned it counterclockwise. Damn, I hope I didn't mess up the timing. Anyway, go clockwise in your case. This gave me access to all the bolts. Once I got all the bolts out, I removed the hub, pushed the driveshaft as far away from the engine as possible and slipped the belts through the easily. Planning on greasing the splines on the driveshaft and the pump splines before putting it back together. Also, it took me a minute to figure out that the radiator fan shroud is flared up on the top left so you can fit the belts over the blade when removing them.

Socket I tried to use as a spacer. Just push and hold the hub/shaft back with your hand.

Pried and held pump flange with a 1" long socket.

Long screwdriver to turn engine and keep it from turning when breaking the bolts loos and 5/8" ratcheting wrench to remove bolts.

Move shaft away from engine as much as possible.

Fan shroud flair for removing belt.