I Messed Up - Ford 3000 Distributor - Need Advice

[Tupperville]

I was changing the points yesterday and backed off the screw hold the points in place within seconds I noticed that screw missing after moving the wires to remove the points.

There is one hole which appears big enough for that screw to fall under the plate.

I removed the "c" clip which U thought was holding the plate down but could not see another possible screw maybe with an allen head.

That's where I stopped and came looking for advice.

The distributor is turned as far as it can go counter clockwise by the previous owner so pulling the distributor may have to be done anyway.

I have yet been able to start this tractor after I purchased from a local Kubota dealership.

New plugs have been installed and I have a new condenser, points, rotor cap.

The coil OD-121 is dated 2016 on the bottom so I will be putting it back on as it appears it also appears not that old.

Note the wires that have become brittle and my be part of the problem but that can wait until I can research a solution.

Any advice much appreciated.

 

[Jim.ME]

Welcome to the forums.

You need to find the screw or confirm it is not inside the distributor at a minimum. That likely means pulling the distributor and disassembling it.

 

[Tupperville]

Welcome to the forums.

You need to find the screw or confirm it is not inside the distributor at a minimum. That likely means pulling the distributor and disassembling it.

Thanks for that.

It would be nice to know how many screws are holding the plate and what type of screw they are.

They appeared to a hex head or allen key type but the implement shed was a bit dark and I had no lighting.

I found this photo of someone holding a distributor and it would appear that screw could not be in the engine or oil pan unless that rod going up through the disributor is hollow.

 

[pomester]

Thanks for that.

It would be nice to know how many screws are holding the plate and what type of screw they are.

They appeared to a hex head or allen key type but the implement shed was a bit dark and I had no lighting.

I found this photo of someone holding a distributor and it would appear that screw could not be in the engine or oil pan unless that rod going up through the disributor is hollow.

Here's a disassembled 3-cylinder distributor. The screws which hold the clips for the cap also secure the points plate. The screws have slot heads. Distributor removal is not difficult. Take a picture of the rotor position and scratch a mark on the distributor body to maintain timing. If you want to adjust the position of the plate that secures the distributor I'd recommend keeping the current relationship until you get it running again and then start adjusting things.

There is no way for the missing screw to enter the engine. You either dropped/flipped it outside the housing or it's in the bottom where the centrifugal advance mechanism resides. If you can't fish it out with a magnet, you need to pull the distributor and make sure it's not in the bottom. It'll mess things up thoroughly if it's loose down there and you start the engine.

 

[Tupperville]

Thanks for that.

I have to ask why that plate won't come out without removing the distributor.

As you can see in my photo I have lots of room.

I should have not removed the "c" clip because I did not mark which way was up on that thin cowboy hat brim shaped washer.

That would be the one at the top of photo.

I assume it does not matter.

Yes, thats a dental pick for snagging those tiny parts when soaking them in varsol.

 

[Jim.ME]

It's your tractor, go for the plate without removing the distributor if you want. Just remember those are small screws and parts. You are already trying to find a missing screw from the points. I prefer my chances of not losing something if I drop it, so I pull the distributor and work on it on a clean bench.

 

[Tupperville]

It's your tractor, go for the plate without removing the distributor if you want. Just remember those are small screws and parts. You are already trying to find a missing screw from the points. I prefer my chances of not losing something if I drop it, so I pull the distributor and work on it on a clean bench.

I understand now what your saying.

I will pull it.

Thanks for that.

 

[Jim.ME]

I understand now what your saying.

I will pull it.

Thanks for that.

Follow pomester's advice for marking and pulling the distributor and reinstalling should have minimal effect on timing.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

I've changed the points in my 2000 a couple of times and found it's easier to just pull the whole thing out to work on it.

 

[a49deere]

Pull it like others have said! Good time to clean it up good and lubricate!

 

[Eman85]

Mark everything. you say the distributor is swung all of the way, someone probably removed it and installed it a tooth off.

 

[Tupperville]

I understand now what your saying.

I will pull it.

Thanks for that.

The lost bolt has been found. I pulled the distributor and the bolt fell out just by turning it over. And while cleaning it, a second threded screw fell out. In the photo Pomester posted it shows an all copper wire attached to the plate, I just forget where it gets connected at the other end. Appears to be the original Motorcraft distributor and the o-ring looks good. The wire coming out of the disibutor terminal only half the wires left so I snipped it clean and will put a new end on tomorrow.

Two more other questions:

1. Should I apply white grease on the gear on the bottom of the distributor cap or just some oil.

2. There is a copper tube that goes to the vacuum advance.

I am wondering how you adjust the timing with that tube there or do you just back the nut off, turn the distributor for that final adjustment and reconnect the copper tube.

 

[Tupperville]

I watched a video about changing the points, MJM's Workshop, and he was nice enough to do a close-up.

The cable grounds the points.

He adds a dab of grease to the shaft cam.

I am forever grateful to the man.