Deere 2640 - Good, Bad and Ugly

Bill VA

Well-known Member
Got a friend selling a JD 2640. New rubber all the way around, new injectors and rebuilt pump. Price is good and it’s in my neighborhood. Use: Batwing mowing and haying as needed.

Seller says the clutch makes a knocking noise and recommends a new clutch. Does not have a remote installed, but he has one. It is not a shuttle, has a dry clutch. Tach has been replaced, he estimated 5,000ish hours.

What’s the good, bad and ugly on these tractors? What should I be on the lookout for? How easy is it to add a loader (for lifting round baled and bags of fertilizer into a spreader) ?

Any sage advice is appreciated.

Thanks!
 
2030 experience. Sounds like clutch knocking but most I have been around all knock at idle speed. Never had a problem as a result. IMHO
 
Got a friend selling a JD 2640. New rubber all the way around, new injectors and rebuilt pump. Price is good and it’s in my neighborhood. Use: Batwing mowing and haying as needed.

Seller says the clutch makes a knocking noise and recommends a new clutch. Does not have a remote installed, but he has one. It is not a shuttle, has a dry clutch. Tach has been replaced, he estimated 5,000ish hours.

What’s the good, bad and ugly on these tractors? What should I be on the lookout for? How easy is it to add a loader (for lifting round baled and bags of fertilizer into a spreader) ?

Any sage advice is appreciated.

Thanks!
If the seller would allow or do then a coolant test should be done to determine pH which will offer a clue as to liner corrosion. Clutch might be a loose finger but as seller hinted be prepared to replace the full assembly. Independent, live, or transmission driven PTO? Differential lock? Should be little trouble finding a loader and tractor hydraulic capacity should not be an issue if in good condition. Transmission shift lever boots are in good condition not allowing water in to affect things such as brakes? Things such as drawbar and three point lift arms are tight and show little wear indicating not a high houred unit?
 
Got a friend selling a JD 2640. New rubber all the way around, new injectors and rebuilt pump. Price is good and it’s in my neighborhood. Use: Batwing mowing and haying as needed.

Seller says the clutch makes a knocking noise and recommends a new clutch. Does not have a remote installed, but he has one. It is not a shuttle, has a dry clutch. Tach has been replaced, he estimated 5,000ish hours.

What’s the good, bad and ugly on these tractors? What should I be on the lookout for? How easy is it to add a loader (for lifting round baled and bags of fertilizer into a spreader) ?

Any sage advice is appreciated.

Thanks!
do not connect the loader to the SCV's for oil .
 
Got a friend selling a JD 2640. New rubber all the way around, new injectors and rebuilt pump. Price is good and it’s in my neighborhood. Use: Batwing mowing and haying as needed.

Seller says the clutch makes a knocking noise and recommends a new clutch. Does not have a remote installed, but he has one. It is not a shuttle, has a dry clutch. Tach has been replaced, he estimated 5,000ish hours.

What’s the good, bad and ugly on these tractors? What should I be on the lookout for? How easy is it to add a loader (for lifting round baled and bags of fertilizer into a spreader) ?

Any sage advice is appreciated.

Thanks!
There's a reason they were/are called 'Utility Tractors'. They could be equipped many, many different ways. You'll need at least one remote valve & coupler for the batwing mower. Two would be better. Make sure you have all the parts for it. Surprised he has it but never installed. You might find the second set in a salvage yard.

2640 was offered quite a long time, and there was a major break. If the hood slopes up from the cowl forward = earlier. If it slopes down = later.

As to adding a loader, 2640 was available with straight, swept-back, or heavy duty front axle. You should have the HD axle for stability on loader applications. There were also two hydraulic pumps offered. Since he didn't have SCV(s) and I presume no loader, that one could have the smaller pump. You will need the bigger one. Cast rear wheels would mean you won't have to add quite as much rear ballast.

As to plumbing, I thought I could direct you to an on-line 146 loader op manual to see the hydraulic connections, but I was disappointed. Looks as if a tech. manual would have the info but I bet it's pricey. Might find one on eBay or just find a tractor to look at. B&D says don't connect loader to rear SCVs, and that's the best advice. But for occasional use, SCVs are the simple plumbing route. Only problem- you'll need them for the batwing. You could remove the loader or simply prop it up and disconnect the hoses, but that's kind of a pain.

Don't know what kind of mowing you plan to do, but a batwing seems like a heckuva load for that size/age of tractor. Would need engine and drive train in tip-top condition to take the strain.
 
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I had a 2440 which I think was the same tractor. I put duals and a rock box on it to pull a 6 row planter. Planted thousands of acres with that until I finally went 12 row. I just did not have any trouble with that tractor. Used it for haying too. I wore out the shifter and rebuilt it and I had to rebush the front end and new tie rod ends. Nothing failed I just wanted everything tight.
 
Keep the shifter boots on it in good condition to keep moisture and dirt out it’s amazing how much gets in the transmission really quickly and causes a mess within a year.

It only stays in park in the one transmission selection there was an update long ago my uncle warned me about when the first one showed up here.

It’s quite unlikely you will have engine trouble

The clutch noise could be a few things alot were equipped with a 2 speed as well that could make noise before failing

It is somewhat likely you will have transmission and hydraulic trouble soon 5000 hours is quite a few on a working utility tractor and the steel lines inside I’ve seen brazed up on multiple machines.

I’ve been told by 2 customers to put a hydraulic pump in even when I advised them it was highly unlikely to actually fix the problem and that it’s more likely to be an internal leak.

They run an unbelievably long time the first time but if you don’t fully commit to a major rebuild when the transmission issues arise you will be back in. If you have it double split between clutch housing and diff all new lines and orings inside

A lot of those tractors around here I think just about every one of my customers has one. Or has had one.

Cheap
Generally good other than all that

I’ve stuck with the 2555s but they will have a lot of the same problems eventually just fewer shifter problems an actual parking brake and they cost more
 
JD 2640 were built '76-'82. They had 4.5L(276 CID) 4 cyl engines. That similar engine is used in several later model JD tractors. R&R clutch or adding frt end loader aren't very difficult tasks. When adding FEL be sure FEL control valve is designed for closed-center hyd system.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. Went and looked at the tractor this morning and passed on buying it.

Thanks again!
 
Got a friend selling a JD 2640. New rubber all the way around, new injectors and rebuilt pump. Price is good and it’s in my neighborhood. Use: Batwing mowing and haying as needed.

Seller says the clutch makes a knocking noise and recommends a new clutch. Does not have a remote installed, but he has one. It is not a shuttle, has a dry clutch. Tach has been replaced, he estimated 5,000ish hours.

What’s the good, bad and ugly on these tractors? What should I be on the lookout for? How easy is it to add a loader (for lifting round baled and bags of fertilizer into a spreader) ?

Any sage advice is appreciated.

Thanks!
Prior to purchasing used. Always price out a new zero hour unit with warranty at the dealer
 
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