NAA safety switch or selinoid issue

[Final Frontier]

So I got a very well running now low priced 1953 NAA.
Jubi was a wired shameful mess and owner gave up on her, so I bought it.
3 resistors wired in it for some reason and over rode the shifter safty button with a push button on the dash and lever did who knows what had me very confused.
It is 12 volt from previous owner.
The three prong solenoid must have been internally burned out before I got it because they jumped it with that cobbled mess having that lever to shut the starter off once it was running.Where do these people come from?Not any farmer I know.
So I got a new supposed ford NAA three post starter solenoid and shifter safty switch.
Since it was already twelve volt, I got the correct electronic ignition along with the correct spark plug wires, plugs at 28 per Petronics and a whole new wiring harness rewiring everything.
All new dash gauges too now.
Shifted into neutral, pushed the brand new button, nothing and of course, the key is on.
Cross the two big selenoid bolts like our old school vehicles in the 60s and she fires right up
Now I take a wire from the negative side of the battery with the key on and touch, the little post, the tractor fires right up.
It smoked at start up first run then hooking my overrun, along with the flail chopper on the rear, I decided let's go and she purred like a kitten for several hours, all guages reading fine, oil at 45 two hours later, turned on lights and watch amps increase, turned off.
Got home and shut it off.
Redid standard startup just like the 8Ns here.... nothing.
Wire back on negative post on battery with one touch on the little small prang, fired, right up again.
I don't know if something can be wrong with that new safety button on the shifter cover, or if there's something really wrong with this solenoid, but I just ordered and received two new solenoids from a big name company just in the case, there's something internally wrong with the new mounted solenoid. Nothing on the solenoid, says positive/negative or battery on either one of the big bolts. Rachel's video on Jubilee 12 volt followed and checked 7 times.
What's your thoughts
Thanks
Mike

 

[Andy Wickiser]

If you touch the little post with ground (negative in your case) and the tractor starts then the solenoid and starter are working. Make sure you have continuity from the terminal on the starter switch to the little terminal on the solenoid. The starting switch can be tested by seeing if you have continuity between the starter switch terminal and ground when the button is depressed. This can be done with a multimeter on ohms. The interlock is mechanical - button should go down all the way when in neutral and less than all the way when in gear (and not make an electrical connection if in gear).

 

[Final Frontier]

If you touch the little post with ground (negative in your case) and the tractor starts then the solenoid and starter are working. Make sure you have continuity from the terminal on the starter switch to the little terminal on the solenoid. The starting switch can be tested by seeing if you have continuity between the starter switch terminal and ground when the button is depressed. This can be done with a multimeter on ohms. The interlock is mechanical - button should go down all the way when in neutral and less than all the way when in gear (and not make an electrical connection if in gear).

Thank you very much for your reply. I will try that shortly after dawn's early light here on Wisconsin's final frontier
Mike

 

[Final Frontier]

Well, went through everything again and checking out polarity and verifying I had everything right and after getting it running by ended up switching out starter solenoid, and she started right up. I've never seen an all silver solenoid on an older Ford, so I took it to an old time Ford mechanic, he said, you've got a positive starter, solenoid

 

[Final Frontier]

If you touch the little post with ground (negative in your case) and the tractor starts then the solenoid and starter are working. Make sure you have continuity from the terminal on the starter switch to the little terminal on the solenoid. The starting switch can be tested by seeing if you have continuity between the starter switch terminal and ground when the button is depressed. This can be done with a multimeter on ohms. The interlock is mechanical - button should go down all the way when in neutral and less than all the way when in gear (and not make an electrical connection if in gear).

Frustrating day wrong starter solenoid.

 

[Texasmark]

I've been running Fords in the 25-50 hp area since the 1980's. I think I had a solenoid problem once. The rest of the time the safety switch in the tranny was either bad or there was too much wear on the "depression" components to push the switch far enough down to engage it. I do recall putting a flat washer in with the ball to get more stroke to get engagement.

 

[Final Frontier]

I've been running Fords in the 25-50 hp area since the 1980's. I think I had a solenoid problem once. The rest of the time the safety switch in the tranny was either bad or there was too much wear on the "depression" components to push the switch far enough down to engage it. I do recall putting a flat washer in with the ball to get more stroke to get engagement.

Well, after so much frustration to think that a brand new solenoid would be defective that's a new one for me.
But tractors purring like a kitten.