Marvel Schebler Tsx flooding?

I have a tsx carb that runs a little rich at idle. It would run really smooth a few seconds after shutting the fuel off. I put a kit and a new float in it figuring it was the float or the needle. But after the new parts it's the same thing. I can hear the float move, and it's set to 1/4" to the gasket. I'm thinking of just tweaking the float down another 1/16" or so unless there's something else I should look for.
 
Most new carb kits best left in box. Needle and seat poor quality and needle sticks Our new gas as well as any sediment will cause flooding just sitting.
 
Years ago I had a new float valve and seat that leaked on something. Took it back where I bought it and in the back room they repaired vehicles. The guy back there took float out and taped the valve in the set with a small hammer. Said it needs that to make a good seat. That was before rubber tips.
 
Try 1/4" from carb body surface, not gasket.

And did you get a good carb kit? Not an cheapo Amazon? I've had much better luck from places like Carb Dr., etc.
If he wants the float lower, he needs to set it 5/16" from the body gasket surface. 1/4' from the body gasket surface actually will raise the float compared to having the gasket in place when measuring.

The float needs to be parallel to the body surface. I like to use a drill bit to check the length of the float(s).
 
If he wants the float lower, he needs to set it 5/16" from the body gasket surface. 1/4' from the body gasket surface actually will raise the float compared to having the gasket in place when measuring.

The float needs to be parallel to the body surface. I like to use a drill bit to check the length of the float(s).

Yes I'm aware and understand the issue, but this is my rule of thumb when it comes to setting the level on our MS carbs (on our Olivers for sure). Go from there. If the float height is set like this (and the tang hasn't been abused and the pontoons don't have pinholes), and continues to flood, then the problem is almost always elsewhere. As I'm sure you know, a clear tube and a fitting on the bowl is the quickest indicator of fuel level.

 
The float needs to be parallel to the body surface. I like to use a drill bit to check the length of the float(s).

This was a great idea. I was 2 screws back together when I saw this post, so I took it back apart and checked with an allen key. I have it at 5/16 now and it idles noticing noticeably better, but it still improves after I shut fuel off.

Also, both times I had the carb off, the engine backfired out the exhaust when starting. Not sure what the deal is there
 
This was a great idea. I was 2 screws back together when I saw this post, so I took it back apart and checked with an allen key. I have it at 5/16 now and it idles noticing noticeably better, but it still improves after I shut fuel off.

Also, both times I had the carb off, the engine backfired out the exhaust when starting. Not sure what the deal is there

I'm trying the understanding a little bit. You're saying it idles better as the fuel shuts off and runs out?

And it backfires when you have the carb off? Are you using starting fluid?
 
It backfired both times I had the carburetor removed. Just the first start after reinstall.

Yes, it idles better after shutting fuel off which is why I lowered the float some. It's much better, but it still improves after fuel is turned off and the bowl level gets drawn down. I'm wondering just how much I can lower it...
 
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