Free 1947 Ford 8N

[BOBWhite12]

Hello everyone I am new
I was given this Ford 8n that was down the road from me, all I needed to do was get it off the property. It came with a mower and whatever parts I could find in the shed. From what I was told it hadn't run in 15-20 years or so but after an afternoon of messing around with it I was able to drive it home. After doing some cleaning this looks like a really early one. From what I can tell the serial number is: 8N2815, which would make it near the top of the registry. The only big problem with it that I have found so far is it doesn't like to turn left, I suspect the steering boxes bearings are shot. Are these common bearings? I have looked in the manual and it doesn't look like it should be too bad of a job, just have not gotten to it yet.

I am new to 8Ns so what else should I know? After an oil change it runs really smooth which surprised me seeing how it sat outside for so long. The PO did a 12 volt conversion on it but I think he kept the 6V coil and just used some resisters to bump the voltage down. If the battery is low it has weak/no spark.
Anyways, its been a pleasure to join the forum and thanks for any advice.

 

[HarryVanderpool]

You're going to have a lot of fun with that tractor and may be surprised how much work it will do for you.
First thing is to replace the hydraulic fluid, and coolant.
Take some fun time on weekends to look it over carefully and dial it in.
Next thing you know, years will have gone by without ever having to pick up a wrench, other than oil changes!
Great job; have fun!!

 

[bradleydavidgood]

That's great, you should be able to clean that up and fix it up and have a nice little tractor. If I was doing it, I'd convert to a fully 12V system with electronic ignition, new cap, rotor, wires, plugs. I'm doing that on my 1951 8N, which is a little different than yours I think. I think you have the distributor on the front and that's the major difference.

If you haven't yet, change the engine oil, filter, and hydraulic fluid. Maybe remove the gas line off the bottom of the tank and flush it a little with gas. I'd get a new bowl and screen, rebuild the carburetor (don't buy a new one they are junk). And new thermostat and hoses and belt if you want to do it all.

Sand it and wire brush it and do some rust treatment then brush or spray on Rustoleum farm and implement paint sold in the gallon can. They have the Ford colors for this tractor.

And I think your serial number should have 6 numbers after the 8N not just 4. Keep sanding and wire brushing it until you can see the other ones and shine bright light at angles.

 

[bradleydavidgood]

Here is a link to what I did on mine so far:

https://www.youtube.com/@bradleydavidgood/search?query=ford%208n

 

[soaked]

Hi BOBWhite12, welcome aboard!
Thats quite an achievement waking her up after a long sleep, in only an afternoon, well done!
Agree 2,815th 8n off the assembly line.
Star symbol before 8, and after the 5 are denoting .040" engine cylinder sleeves.
Does your clutch linkage look like this

Its the early version.(from John Smith)

 

[BOBWhite12]

Yes it does look like that and thank you for the kind replies.

I read also that there was something different about the pto lever on the early ones but I do not remember. Also looks like I might need to do a clutch job soon as the adjustment bolt is about at its max. Does clutch petal travel increase or decrease with clutch wear?

As for the transmission oil I had to add some when I first started but I have not decided what to change it out with. Trans/hydraulic fluid? I loosened up all the plugs to see if there was water before I started but there was none.

Whoever took care of it before me was very meticulous, I really didn't have to do anything to get it back running. The gentleman who owned it died when I was young and I don't remember him. I wish I could have met him, you learn a lot about a man from how he treats his equipment.

I plan on keeping the points ignition system for now, I have no ill will towards points. I might try and find a 12v coil to swap in if they are available for the front mount dizzies so I can get rid of the resisters. The cap, rotor, and points are in excellent shape so they were done pretty recently. The carb had also been gone through since the needle valve was one of those cheep rubber tipped ones.

 

[Jim.ME]

I believe you will need to keep the original type of resistor/junction block in service even if you install a square 12-volt coil.

From past discussions about the 12-volt conversions on this forum, the 12-volt coils are designed with internal resistance to use that resistor in the ignition circuit.

 

[soaked]

Yes it does look like that and thank you for the kind replies.
View attachment 162893
I read also that there was something different about the pto lever on the early ones but I do not remember. Also looks like I might need to do a clutch job soon as the adjustment bolt is about at its max. Does clutch petal travel increase or decrease with clutch wear?

Not sure if pedal travel changes with wear.
The adjustment on the clutch linkage bolt can be too short, leaving a clutch that wont disengage.
Looks like your bolt head is under the arm, compared to the John Smith Pic where the bolt head is actually contacting the arm?
Do you have the 3729-G July 7, 1947 owners manual?
Here is the image from page 8

Im not aware of a pto arm difference.
Got this tatterd manual in a box of stuff when bought a sidemount 8n a decade or so back.

 

[Jim in LA]

Hello everyone I am new
I was given this Ford 8n that was down the road from me, all I needed to do was get it off the property. It came with a mower and whatever parts I could find in the shed. From what I was told it hadn't run in 15-20 years or so but after an afternoon of messing around with it I was able to drive it home. After doing some cleaning this looks like a really early one. From what I can tell the serial number is: 8N2815, which would make it near the top of the registry. The only big problem with it that I have found so far is it doesn't like to turn left, I suspect the steering boxes bearings are shot. Are these common bearings? I have looked in the manual and it doesn't look like it should be too bad of a job, just have not gotten to it yet.
View attachment 162879View attachment 162880
I am new to 8Ns so what else should I know? After an oil change it runs really smooth which surprised me seeing how it sat outside for so long. The PO did a 12 volt conversion on it but I think he kept the 6V coil and just used some resisters to bump the voltage down. If the battery is low it has weak/no spark.
Anyways, its been a pleasure to join the forum and thanks for any advice.

Love the front hub caps! This site sells parts for all N series. Check out YouTube for 8N repairs. Dan and Rachel Gingell have good repair vids on there. I rebuilt the steering box on a "51 I bought. YT has two or three videos on how to do it. It's not hard to tell the guys that know what they're doing from the hacks. Vice Grip Garage guy is a ghood one. You can get shop ,parts, and maintenance manuals from here. Have fun!