1020 John Deere crank not start

And Is the meter valve inside the pump?
Number 7 and in the 2nd photo the full top lever is shown. And that top cover shows an electric solenoid shut of style that you don’t have, as in where the wire would connect Jim is talking about. If you have a wire with nowhere to go it may be for an air filter restriction monitor that would be somewhere on the air filter piping.
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Please forgive me for my poor reading comprehension in my haste earlier I didn't view the photos of your tractors inj pump or comprehend that fuel on your 1010 was manually controlled. Sorry for confusion & I agree your tractor doesn't have electric fuel control solenoid on IP.
 
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I figured out your wire mystery? The JDB injector pump on the tractor now has no green paint on it. So sometime it has been changed. The original pump was a small CD or CB injector pump. It had a electric solenoid shut-off. That is why that wire was laying there. Make sure the end of that wire is taped up. For it may have 12 volt in it when the tractor is running? With this injector pump, you do no need to use this wire.
 
I figured out your wire mystery? The JDB injector pump on the tractor now has no green paint on it. So sometime it has been changed. The original pump was a small CD or CB injector pump. It had a electric solenoid shut-off. That is why that wire was laying there. Make sure the end of that wire is taped up. For it may have 12 volt in it when the tractor is running? With this injector pump, you do no need to use this wire.
I do not think he has an unattached wire on his 1020. I believe the wire in question was a wire TX Jim suggested to add/try if the pump had a fuel shut off solenoid which that pump does not have. The part number on the pump is a JD reman part number. I would think if one had a pump with an electric shut off and they were buying a reman from JD, they would have bought the reman with the electric shutoff.

If Tx Jim's suggestion of trying it with the little plate on the side loose and leaking fuel and towing do not work. The answer to Mtynes question of if the pump could be bad: is Yes, the pump could have failed.

I suggest Mtynes direct message (start conversation) with Dieseltech and see if he has any other thoughts, but I expect he will end up sending the pump to him.
 
I suggest Mtynes direct message (start conversation) with Dieseltech and see if he has any other thoughts,
That’s a good idea, I would first recommend even before pulling the top to remove the timing window and look to see if anything is turning in there. I don’t think failures of the drives on those horizontal mount Roosa../Stanad.. pumps is real common on Deeres but one should never say never. Also it looks like one of the mounting studs is MIA?? A metering valve sticking on a running engine is not very common, but the never… thing applies here as well. If his flex ring is giving out and a good sized chunk floats into just the right position that would do it.
 
Removing the two screws on the timing window plate remove the plate, if things are turning, he will see it in the window opening, no reason to open the top.

I had a pump on a 2030 that I pulled in to change the engine oil and it refused to start after the oil change. The pump needed a rebuild, it was shot. Ran fine until it didn't start. So, I won't rule out that his pump failed.
 
OK guys so I did put pressure through the line and it didn’t start trying to force diesel into it. I opened up the timing window and it was full of diesel. I cranked it over nothing in there was moving. It was not spinning at all, so I’m gonna go ahead and assume that this pump is bad. Please advise thank you.
 
OK guys so I did put pressure through the line and it didn’t start trying to force diesel into it. I opened up the timing window and it was full of diesel. I cranked it over nothing in there was moving. It was not spinning at all, so I’m gonna go ahead and assume that this pump is bad. Please advise thank you.
With the window off did you see the two discs. The rear one is stationary; the front one should turn when the engine is cranked with the starter (or running). If you confirm the front disc is not turning when cranking the engine, the pump drive has problems and needs to be checked out.
 
I pulled the pump plate timing cover off the front of the injector pump. I cranked it over. There’s a pin in there with the spring on the back of it. It’s spinning, but I also took a video of the timing window while I was being cranked and one of those places is supposed to move there’s no movement in any of those plates so I believe that the injection pump is not working properly. Please advise telling me what you think guys watch the video please.
 
If nothing rotates in pump when engine crankshaft rotates then probably inj pump shaft is broken. Your video is too dark for my aging eyesight to determine any movement inside open pump window
 
I say you need to pull the pump to find out if the shaft broke, or something else has happened. I don't have the service manual for a 1020. Do you? I believe you remove all the lines and linkages from the pump, wire the throttle linkage wide open to keep it in that position, and the pump should slide backwards off the shaft.

If you took the cover over the gear off from the timing cover that is the pump gear cover, not the pump plate timing cover.
 
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