1460 lower [shoe sieve] sieve bolt

Replacing the aluminum "shaker" piece on the right side of the machine.
Any one have a fast way to hold the bottom bolt without taking the
lower sieve out? We did this operation on the 1440 years ago, but the
lock nut came loose easily.
Any help would be appreciated.
Jim
 
Replacing the aluminum "shaker" piece on the right side of the machine.
Any one have a fast way to hold the bottom bolt without taking the
lower sieve out? We did this operation on the 1440 years ago, but the
lock nut came loose easily.
Any help would be appreciated.
Jim
Sorry i can't help ya , while i was still working full time not one of the customers i had had a I H combine since our local I H dealer did not sell combines . My one friend who ran a late model John Deere 55 one with again John Deere 4400 , one 6600 and the few Masseys i bought used and sold or kept for myself then sold off .John Boy sold his 55 to a relative out in Ill and now one can see that one at the big show out there and replaced with a 1620 couple years back that i have never helped him work on . I never dabbled in buying the I H combines at the sales back then due to how much risk ya took when spending that much on one piece on a whim and payer hopping some one would buy it in my area with no Dealer support and the Deere dealer had the support . On the Massey's i could afford to buy any parts i needed was fifty miles either way to a Dealer who had what i needed . What i have learned over the years working on stuff is that sometimes to get to something one must that way more stuff off to get to something simple
 
Replacing the aluminum "shaker" piece on the right side of the machine.
Any one have a fast way to hold the bottom bolt without taking the
lower sieve out? We did this operation on the 1440 years ago, but the
lock nut came loose easily.
Any help would be appreciated.
Jim
I have no idea if there is any access in the way I am going to suggest. Can a wrench be welded on a long rod to get you access? Would you need to hold a bolt or nut in the wrench to reassemble? Those small rare earth magnets are really strong and may be able to hold the hardware in the wrench. Attach magnet to the wrench in the proper holding position with JB Qwik, there may even be other faster setting adhesives available. Sorry if this is way off in idiot land.
 
I have no idea if there is any access in the way I am going to suggest. Can a wrench be welded on a long rod to get you access? Would you need to hold a bolt or nut in the wrench to reassemble? Those small rare earth magnets are really strong and may be able to hold the hardware in the wrench. Attach magnet to the wrench in the proper holding position with JB Qwik, there may even be other faster setting adhesives available. Sorry if this is way off in idiot land.
Ok so now what is your issue that i have never worked on a I H combine or ever bought one ????? The FACT that the dealer here never SOLD a combine ??????? Frank was a work of art . He married the daughter of the org owners daughter and fell into it . Pat was a sweet heart and when i first started going there for STUFF way back when i first took up farming she gave me a 10 % discount on parts way back when i had my old 450 diesel and i was STILL A PARTS MANAGER AT A CHRYSLER PLYMOUTH DEALER . When i went to repair Frank scoffed me when i started buying and selling he made jokes about me . One day at lunch time at the local watering hole he made a snide comment about one of the 706's setting at the shop not five miles from his dealership . His comment was I SEE YA STILL GOT THAT 706 SETTING THERE . Ah no Frank that one Donny just dropped off that i bought last Saturday out in Bern In. , there are three more in the shop that came from Stilesville last week and will be off to a sale in Eastern Pa on Thursday for the sale in Fridays . And by the way i do not see ANY used tractors setting on your lot . But Frank the ones i SELL around here become a NEW parts Customer For you . Loved the look on his face . I also said what ya need is for me to find you some nice used late models to put on your lot . And i get NO WAY you buy Junk . Yep your right i buy junk and FIX them and sell them , How many tractors did you sell last week as i sold five . Yep i bought Massey combines , why because they were Cheap and the used market was FLOODED with them out west Many good low hour combines that could be bought for around 500 to 2500 bucks for a late model . Put yourself in a famers mind set , he needs a combine a machine that MIGHT work twice a year to do small grain in the summer and maybe shell fifty - hundred acres of corn . MOST dairy farmers around here PICKED EAR CORN to feed the herd , many picked corn with CORN PICKERS but could use a SMALL combine to cut OATS and bale straw behind . Crop rotation ran CORN OATS HAY on farms under 200 acres . I myself and Don and Bob bought CORN PICKERS for the local market . A dairy guy wanted a CORN PICKER that worked a few days a year and SAT and the top selling picker tractor was a M or Super M and if ya had a picker mounted on a 560 wow let the bidding war begin . My friend Don and i stating in late july hit every sale that had a new idea picker in it . don dabbled in a few combines but not as heavy as i did . He would go after the small Gleaners . I went after the Massey's as Gleaners in my area was a nasty taste in the mouth of farmers . While Elmer had the Massey dealership8 miles from my shop Elmer sold Massey and sold a hand full of 300's a few 205's an a few 510-550 . for me the 550's were way out of my price range . 510's cost more to haul so i stuck with 300's and 410's I ran a 300 for like 8 years doing custom work and my own corn as i did not dabble in small grain myself but cut many small fields of Oat . wheat . and barley with my 650 dollar 300 and on avg of over 400 in Corn . with 65 of the corn acres of mine . Custom work paid 24 bucks and acre on a 650 dollar investment . On a usuall year that came down to one set of drive belts from all the road travel on our hilly roads and ran with only one major harvest break down that almost caused a major combine fire . That 650 dollar combine shipped the best grain sample any where around given the customer a 0 DOC at the elevator . Beat that . A tune up once a year a bearing here a belt there . The crown jewel of my combine buying came from Winnamac when i bought a 1980 750 Massey with a 20 foot bean header and a 6 row corn head for 2450 bucks because it would not start sale day and it had 1640 hours on the clock . oh and it came with a header cart also the cab was clean and like new . Issue was a bad altr and three dead batterys . I thought about keeping it BUT while on the drive home imade a phone call back in the days when ya hqad your cell phone mounted on the dash and one phone call i sold it and they had to come and get it . sold it for less then the one they had last bid on before someone out bid them and that one had twice the hours . I fixed the issue and put the new batterys in iot out there when i went out to load the other stuff on my trailer and had arrangement for the four big tractor to be hauled as the hauler could load all four on one trip and he held the over sized permits for Ohio . I helped them load it and remove the side steps and platform to keep it under 12 foot . you wonder why i never worked on I H combines?? well the cost to buy and no dealer suppot anywhere close who supported I H combine in m area Frank and pat had no parts and yea they could ORDER them you were looking at three to five days of down time and Down time in trucking , construction and FARMING is a KILLER . so OK i lay out 12-20 grand for a I H combine fix what is WRONG with it pay the over sized trucking on 350-500 miles who around here is going to buy a 1460 or a 1660 or even a 1480 , that was what was out there and in the 25 years of running the sales i saw two 1420's and BOTH had broken cab mounts with the cab being held up by the feeder house , yea that is NOT a small repair . Where i did my SHOPPING the combine sizes started at the 1440's and went up way to large for the crowed around here for a machine that spent more time in the shed then working . Then ya factor in the special tools to work on one , ya need the fixture to remove the rotor and a FORK LIFT . If the engine needs to come out our 580 CK with the boom pole or the 706 with that I H 2000 loader is NOT the tool to remove the engine . so this is another reason i never worked on a I H combine . with the Massey IF i had to pull the engine i had what i needed for the job the 706 with the loader and boom pole or the 580 CK with the boom pole would work great . If i needed and engine for a GAS powered Massey i was just a JUNK yard away from a 225 slant six or a 292 chevy and if i needed a 358 Perkins well i was 290 miles away from one of them .
 
To save time and fiddling around just drop the straw spreaders and remove the sieves. Pretty simple. Does work better if you have a helper to install everything back, but I have done it myself
 
Replacing the aluminum "shaker" piece on the right side of the machine.
Any one have a fast way to hold the bottom bolt without taking the
lower sieve out? We did this operation on the 1440 years ago, but the
lock nut came loose easily.
Any help would be appreciated.
Jim
I have had luck with an Impact wrench. It seems that sometimes hitting it really fast will zip it off before the bolt wakes up (-:

If that doesn't work, pulling the sieve isn't that bad a job.
 
Thanks for the replies, guys. I suppose we'll be taking the sieve out
to get the job done. The guy up at the yard used his impact & got
all the nuts off. Not so lucky here, though.
Jim
 
Thanks for the replies, guys. I suppose we'll be taking the sieve out
to get the job done. The guy up at the yard used his impact & got
all the nuts off. Not so lucky here, though.
Jim
I don't know if this applies or not, but I've found I have much better luck trying to "surprise" a bolt & nut with an air impact than a battery-powered one.

Just a thought.
 
To save time and fiddling around just drop the straw spreaders and remove the sieves. Pretty simple. Does work better if you have a helper to install everything back, but I have done it myself
Never dug into a I H , like i said we had NO dealer support here as Frank would not stock or sell any combines or parts . Elmer sold Massey and HE stocked and service what he sold . The guy and i am sorry i forgot his name he sold A/C and he sold the Gleaner line and serviced them , the J D dealer west of me sold the Deere's and he serviced them . So farmers in my area bought what they could get service . We had two I H dealers some 10-12 miles apart and NOT one ever sold a combine . way back in the early sixty's while i was a pup my uncle bought a 91 with a 12 foot header i ran that combine , no cab just a umbrella since my uncle had hay fever big time . I am not sure where it came from . I just ran it in wheat , the second crop on the farm , a farm where half was wheat planted after the taters were dug and the other half was taters . sorta neat old combine with the two sticks to steer with . Around here on the farm ground MOST farms had to small grain was 10-20 Acres . Some ran Deere 3300 or a 4400 . a Massey 300 or 410 and gleaner A's of K's ten to 12 foot heads and maybe a two or four row corn head for wide row . . Most dairy farmer with small grain had Oats out for FEED , a few had some winter wheat five acres here and fifteen there . they did not have a combine , they relayed on a neighbor or someone like me who would come do there tiny patch . My buddy and OLD customer John was the First in this area to have a I H combine that he bought off another Jockey friend long after i closed up a half decent 1620 that has some HOURS on it and he has been payen the price of a higher hour Axelflow . rotor rebuild out of the machine , transfer gear box rebuild , Now at this time as of sunday evening he was replacing sprockets , bearings and clean grain chain . His has around 3400 hours and like and old lady she NEEDS things . Me all the Massey's i bought were under 2000 HRs and needed vary little A belt here a bearing there . And the FIRST the 300 that other then Main drive belts from running the HILLY roads and a few bearings it was a money maker for me and i got vary fond of it as it just went and made MONEY at 24 bucks and acre/
 
Well, finally got it without taking the sieve out.
Stuck a bar in the shaker hole under the sieve where the bolt goes
through & put pressure on the sieve. Walked the lock nut off with
the usual amount of effort.
Thanks again for all the suggestions, guys.
Jim
 
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