OEM rims vs looped rim replacements - '48 Allis 'C'

[TomWK]

The tractor I inherited from my Dad has original design 10 x24 rear rims with hub clamps, and they look pretty sorry. There is visible repair ( welding ) on both of them. Also, the inner tubes are full of calcium chloride. The tractor is mainly used for mowing with a Woods L306 belly mower and pulling the bush hog around on the back lot. I don't believe I need CC in the tires for that kind of duty. I want to reduce the overall rolling weight and free up more HP for the PTO. Besides that I'm kind of concerned about a sudden rim failure when doing either of those activities.
Are the looped rims acceptable replacements? I see they are alot less expensive than the OEM design. Seems like they would be safer.

 

[Jim.ME]

The tractor I inherited from my Dad has original design 10 x24 rear rims with hub clamps, and they look pretty sorry. There is visible repair ( welding ) on both of them. Also, the inner tubes are full of calcium chloride. The tractor is mainly used for mowing with a Woods L306 belly mower and pulling the bush hog around on the back lot. I don't believe I need CC in the tires for that kind of duty. I want to reduce the overall rolling weight and free up more HP for the PTO. Besides that I'm kind of concerned about a sudden rim failure when doing either of those activities.
Are the looped rims acceptable replacements? I see they are alot less expensive than the OEM design. Seems like they would be safer.

Loop rims can be used, however you need centers for the looped rims to replace the rims with eccentric keeper centers.

 

[Bob Bancroft]

The tractor I inherited from my Dad has original design 10 x24 rear rims with hub clamps, and they look pretty sorry. There is visible repair ( welding ) on both of them. Also, the inner tubes are full of calcium chloride. The tractor is mainly used for mowing with a Woods L306 belly mower and pulling the bush hog around on the back lot. I don't believe I need CC in the tires for that kind of duty. I want to reduce the overall rolling weight and free up more HP for the PTO. Besides that I'm kind of concerned about a sudden rim failure when doing either of those activities.
Are the looped rims acceptable replacements? I see they are alot less expensive than the OEM design. Seems like they would be safer.

I had both a B and a C. The wheels are a little bit different. I put the loop style rims on one of them, but it's been so long I can't remember which one. Seems like I had a little stress trying to get the bolts in, but I got it somehow.

 

[atlarge54]

Can't tell you about a B but I once had a C with loop rims.

 

[Dick L]

The tractor I inherited from my Dad has original design 10 x24 rear rims with hub clamps, and they look pretty sorry. There is visible repair ( welding ) on both of them. Also, the inner tubes are full of calcium chloride. The tractor is mainly used for mowing with a Woods L306 belly mower and pulling the bush hog around on the back lot. I don't believe I need CC in the tires for that kind of duty. I want to reduce the overall rolling weight and free up more HP for the PTO. Besides that I'm kind of concerned about a sudden rim failure when doing either of those activities.
Are the looped rims acceptable replacements? I see they are alot less expensive than the OEM design. Seems like they would be safer.

Here ya go1 I have them on both B's and C's. I just poke a 5/8" bolt thru as in the picture. For the fourth bolt will be a bit off. Don't force it and damage the threads of the bolt. Go get a bigger hammer and make an adjustment to the loop. Worked for me every time