Source for Briggs Large Flo Jet carb rebuild kit?

[Fawteen]

Title says it all. Did find one that appears to be correct on EBay, but it's "unavailable".

 

[olddog]

Just went thru this with a briggs oppy twin carb. Searched and priced rebuild kits, then found COMPLETE new carb for under 30 bux!
Probably chineseium, but all the holes lined up. Starts, runs and Idles better than it has in a long while.
Only got bout two hours on it, so time will tell.

 

[504]

The last kit I needed it came with a complete carb. Makes no sense why a cab kit that comes with a new carb is cheaper than just buying a kit. That was for a Echo trimmer.

 

[Fawteen]

then found COMPLETE new carb for under 30 bux!
Probably chineseium, but all the holes lined up.

Resorted to that for the Tecumseh on the Troy Bilt rototiller. Carb casting was broken. I've had decent luck with Chinese carbs on a variety of small engines.

 

[NormanSavesTractors]

Check Lil' Red Barn. They bought all of my iSaveTractors inventory.

 

[Fawteen]

Check Lil' Red Barn. They bought all of my iSaveTractors inventory.

I did, thanks. No joy. Found one of Ebay, so I'm covered.

 

[560Dennis]

FYI , the chiltons small engine manual discussed the issue of the warped top plate of the Flo jet carburetor. The engine will require endless adjustments of the mixture screw to no satisfactory degree.
I used an old gasket and a well placed 2 no. Permatex, to seal with some success for awhile.
I did purchase a hong cong carburetor, which worked then the engine failed .Great !
May help ?

 

[Fawteen]

@560Dennis

Thanks for that, I'll keep that in mind when I start working on the 7116.

 

[Rkh]

I have the landlord 2110 and I had the same thing with top half of carb warping. Mine is a 1968 with original engine.

 

[Watthour]

Resorted to that for the Tecumseh on the Troy Bilt rototiller. Carb casting was broken. I've had decent luck with Chinese carbs on a variety of small engines.

Broken casting? And it was probably die cast zinc alloy also, right?

Those can be repaired it you are desperate, and it's a Sunday evening in the middle of the Northwoods on a holiday weekend.

The specialty filler rod and flux from some sources can successfully alloy with the die cast materials and is really pretty strong when finished. Be sure to use good ventilation because the fluxes can be toxic, and the filler material certainly is (cadmium spews toxic metal ions when heated). If you do this, apply only enough material to fill since removing it is not easy without a die grinder. I found out the hard way.

The PulsaJet was cracked off from carrying the weight of a full fuel tank with the lower support bolt being left out.
http://www.wwdsltd.com/files/BriggsCarbBroken.jpg

A sleeve was made to reinforce the throat (intake manifold?) before assembly.
http://www.wwdsltd.com/files/BriggsCarbRefit.jpg

The silver/cadmium solder (Muggy Weld) was applied and allowed to cool, and was far harder than the original cast zinc base material.
http://www.wwdsltd.com/files/BriggsCarbBrazed.jpg

It was impressive for a silver solder alloy, and the remarkably low heat required.