1010 RUS Dual Hydraulic system - single lever 3pt "HELP"

[Hive23]

Hello all, I have a '63 1010 RUS and recently replaced the seals/rings in the 3pt hydraulics. If I would have knew before hand that it would be this much of a chore I would have dealt with the bouncing lift arms. With that said, I got back together and fired it up to "test" and the arms shot up instantly, wouldn't come down, and I could hear the relief valve chattering. Shut down the tractor and disassembled for round 2. In the second teardown I fixed what I thought was causing the problem but on start up the arms shot up, wouldn't go down, but I didn't hear the chattering. So at some point in the second teardown I fixed the overpressure issue but after rounds 3 - 6 of tearing it down to make "adjustments" I realized that I must have the "NON ACTIVE" second control lever out of time (so to speak). I have the manual from Jensales and it states that the left side control valve is in a fixed position and the right side valve controls the flow of fluid into and out of the cylinders. My question is, "WHAT IS THAT FIXED POSITION"? Is it the point where the control valve opens the check valve or just before?

 

[Mnethercutt]

Most of my experience is with the dual hydraulics, so take this with a grain of salt, but I'm not understanding your question well. What exactly did you take apart when you replaced the seals? I've replaced the main cylinder seals on mine before and I didn't have to do much more than split the quadrant and put it back together. Did you take everything apart to replace all the seals? If so, did you make sure to mark the shaft levers (part 61 in the diagram) before removal? If they didn't go back on the same splines that could be contributing to your issue.

 

[Tx Jim]

If you do not have a 1010 technical manual I highly recommend that you get a copy of that TM. Have you attempted operating 3pt hitch with 3pt control lever not being utilized to control 3pt in the forward position?

 

[Hive23]

Yes. I separated the 3 sections (rockshaft housing, cylinder block, levers and linkage section) to access and remove the cylinders and cylinder heads to replace the leather and rubber seals on the cylinders and cylinder heads. Your diagram is perfect. Part 39 is the likely culprit. The shaft for the actual position lever (part 54) is pinned in place. During disassembly, Part 39 (the shaft) is connected to Part 61 internally and has no locating hole to pin. It is my understanding the cast iron cap that splines to the external end of that shaft pins 39 and 61 in the correct position. Which brings me back to the original question. What is the correct position? I was definitely no the first person inside this system and the orientation of the parts in you pic versus the orientation of the parts in my book don't appear to match (examples 52 and 54 look flipped)

 

[Hive23]

If you do not have a 1010 technical manual I highly recommend that you get a copy of that TM. Have you attempted operating 3pt hitch with 3pt control lever not being utilized to control 3pt in the forward position?

This is the manual I have. I can't find what the "fixed" position is or how to clock it

 

[Mnethercutt]

Yes. I separated the 3 sections (rockshaft housing, cylinder block, levers and linkage section) to access and remove the cylinders and cylinder heads to replace the leather and rubber seals on the cylinders and cylinder heads. Your diagram is perfect. Part 39 is the likely culprit. The shaft for the actual position lever (part 54) is pinned in place. During disassembly, Part 39 (the shaft) is connected to Part 61 internally and has no locating hole to pin. It is my understanding the cast iron cap that splines to the external end of that shaft pins 39 and 61 in the correct position. Which brings me back to the original question. What is the correct position? I was definitely no the first person inside this system and the orientation of the parts in you pic versus the orientation of the parts in my book don't appear to match (examples 52 and 54 look flipped)

I'm afraid I don't have an answer for you. I have a different service manual that has a large warning in it that you have to put a mark on Part 61 and a spline on Part 39 prior to disassembly to make sure it goes back together correctly. It does not provide a way for identifying the 'correct' way to put it back together if it isn't marked prior to disassembly (helpful, right?). Hopefully someone else who has encountered this before can chime in with an answer, but you may have to just slowly rotate through the splines until you find the 'right' one...

Hopefully I'm understanding your problem correctly? I have a PDF of my service manual on my home computer; when I get home this evening I'll post a screenshot of the sections applicable, maybe it can help you.

 

[Hive23]

I'm afraid I don't have an answer for you. I have a different service manual that has a large warning in it that you have to put a mark on Part 61 and a spline on Part 39 prior to disassembly to make sure it goes back together correctly. It does not provide a way for identifying the 'correct' way to put it back together if it isn't marked prior to disassembly (helpful, right?). Hopefully someone else who has encountered this before can chime in with an answer, but you may have to just slowly rotate through the splines until you find the 'right' one...

Hopefully I'm understanding your problem correctly? I have a PDF of my service manual on my home computer; when I get home this evening I'll post a screenshot of the sections applicable, maybe it can help you.

My book says the same thing. My thoughts are, because the splined cap is what pins the shaft, the cap can be rotated until the shaft is in the Neutral or Lower position or clocked identical as the right side valve when the right side valve is in the lowest or neutral position. The logic is that both valves are linked to the rockshaft and will both move in relation to the position of the rockshaft. This is why I mentioned the check valves. With the check valve retainer caps removed you can feel when they contact the "ramp" to open them. My suspicion is that this is how I will have to locate and clock the valve in question.

 

[Doug Anderson]

John Deere 1000 Series Tractors Service Manual SM2033 - Google Drive

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