Old 9 horse Tecumseh not starting.

[da.bees]

Craftsman 143.969005, 9 horse single cylinder flat head pull start. It's an oldie but stored indoors all it's life and was purring along,not burning oil and always easy to start when it sputtered out and died. Half tank fresh fuel and spark but not even a little smoke or indication of firing. Squirt gas in carb,nothing. Change plug squirt start fluid still nothing. "Nothing" meaning no smoke or other indication fuel is igniting. Borrowed compression test didn't move needle. I say" borrowed" because the little man on my shoulder thinks tester was bad and I didn't think to try it on another engine before returning it. Clasped hand on muffler feels air pushed out and momentary suction while pulling start rope. Figured suction was because exhaust valve keeper came off. Removed crankcase vent cover and examined keepers looked fine and I can't see where a spring broke. Working through plug hole in head I slipped a 0.002 feeler gauge between valve and seat then eased engine over until valve closed. 0.002 feeler was firmly gripped by intake and exhaust.

Next suspect is broken flywheel key but I'm not looking forward to tearing it down. Old age, achy bones and hot weather.
Is there anything meaningful about the momentary suck-back at muffler?
Is there anything else I should try before chasing after a broken key?
Any tricks for stuck flywheel?
If I pull flywheel should I replace or clean anything inside before buttoning up?

 

[Fawteen]

Some ideas:

1. Momentary suck-back could mean sticky or out of adjustment valve.

2. You didn't mention if the engine is installed in something like a garden tractor but over all, pulling the shroud off to check the flywheel key is not terribly difficult.

3. You didn't mention checking for actual spark. Changing the plug only confirms the condition of the plug, not the rest of the ignition system. Could be as simple as the coil being grounded from a shorted wire or a bad plug wire.

 

[Loosehandle]

Tecumseh ignition is fickel at best, I would suspect it.

 

[da.bees]

I failed to say so but I put one of those little guys on it after checking for fuel.

 

[da.bees]

Some ideas:

1. Momentary suck-back could mean sticky or out of adjustment valve.

2. You didn't mention if the engine is installed in something like a garden tractor but over all, pulling the shroud off to check the flywheel key is not terribly difficult.

3. You didn't mention checking for actual spark. Changing the plug only confirms the condition of the plug, not the rest of the ignition system. Could be as simple as the coil being grounded from a shorted wire or a bad plug wire.

1. My red neck feeler gauge between valve and seat seamed to indicate both valves seating. In addition to sticky valve I thought compression release might be malfunctioning,although I haven't found a release listed in parts brealdown.

2. Craftsman wood chipper 247.795890. That's why it's had an easy life.

3. I held old and new plugs against block to make sure there's spark,pluse I used a tester.

It was dumb on my part for not trying the compression gauge in another motor before returning it. I guess that's why the guy that keeps borrowed stuff for 2 years is actually smarter than me who always trys returing asap. BTW,did I mention that I own two? Yep,but I don't recall the last time I used them and finding one has eluded me. I think I'll have another go at compression test before pulling fly wheel. Am I correct in thinking busted key has no effect on compression? Dumb question but I'm not feeling so sharp lately.

 

[Fawteen]

Am I correct in thinking busted key has no effect on compression? Dumb question but I'm not feeling so sharp lately.

Correct, only affects timing.