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Hydraulic help on Yanmar 2210D !!

Yesterday's Tractor Forums
You purchased a Chief valve from some place, then purchased a power beyond adapter from Summit Hydraulics for a Summit valve? It may be ok but a small difference in the right place could be an issue.

Why did you not go back to the place you got the valve and get the adapter for that valve from them?

Did you confirm with Summit to see if they say that adapter fits the Chief valve?
 
Hello all, first of all I would like to thank everyone that is providing help and ideas to my problem. This forum is such a wealth of knowledge and much appreciated.

Let me give a little update on some things that I have found and what I plan to do going forward.

I noticed that on the lift arms only the left side seems like it's trying to lift. I was using the tractor probably a little beyond the recommended limits when the problems started. I think that the right lift cylinder is blown and while not leaking externally, I think it may be leaking badly inside and letting pressurized fluid go back the to the control valve through what should be the other non-pressurized line and causing the other problems.

The bucket was working when I pulled it into the garage. However, as I stated in an earlier post, a mechanic friend of mine came over and was trying to figure out what was going on after it had stumped me. I was sitting on the tractor and he was trying a few different things. I think he tried switching a couple lines that went to the bucket and lift arms to see if they would work the other cylinders when the bucket slammed down violently. Thinking back, it hasn't so much as wiggled since. Therefore, I think he may have blown a seal out of one or both of the bucket cylinders causing the same problems as the arm cylinders.

I came to this idea after a little experiment I did today. Since I never saw my pressure line psi go above 1100 with my gauge installed directly in the pressure line from the pump to the control valve, I wanted to make sure that the hydraulic pump was producing pressure as it should. I backed off the pressure relief valve on the control and then hooked my pressure gauge into one of the lines going to a bucket cylinder. Essentially dead heading that one port. I gently applied pressure to it with the bucket raise/dump lever and adjusted the bypass pressure to 1900 psi. That told me that the pump is fine and capable of producing good pressure as it should.

That is how I began to think that this really may just be a series of odd occurrences and not just one simple issue. Here's how I hopefully will find out if I'm correct. A friend of mine has a compact tractor as well. I am going to see if he will bring it over Friday and let me connect (2) lines from his tractor to my bucket cylinders and then my arm cylinders and see if they function as they should. If they do, I am really confused and will be back on here looking for advice. If they don't, as I suspect, I will know that the cylinders are blown and I will order the seals to rebuild them.

Now I just have to convince him to let me do this quick switch-a-roo test.


I'll post back Friday. Thanks everybody.
 
You seem to be dancing around it, but to me it still leads back to the pump one way or another. It may or may not be sucking air, but it's simply not putting out. If the problem affects both loader and three point systems, blaming cylinder seals somewhere doesn't lead to any solutions. Maybe your mechanic friend can come up with a flow meter and settle the question?
 
I agree with what you say. I don’t have time for it tomorrow but the checking of the cylinders is so easy and quick that I’d like to do it. Once it’s ruled out, I’ll move on to other possibilities. I will admit that I have no answers on the 3 point.

If the cylinders all work and the control valve and power beyond sleeves are all new (and functions exactly the same as the old valve) it can only be the pump, hoses/lines or the internals of the 3 point.

We’ll get this thing working before Christmas!
 
Why not just block the lift cylinder that you are suspecting and see i if the other one continues to lift as it should. You could do that test slowly. Or maybe remove the hose from the loader valve that is coming from the upper hose on the suspected lift cylinder and hold it in a catch pan and slowly actuate the lift lever and see if you get continual flow. If so, you can know the inner piston seal is blown.
 
I know, I mentioned that. Mysteriously, the 3 point did function briefly on Sunday. I think I put that in a post a few days ago, but when I hooked the FEL back up, it again stopped working. Hasn’t moved since.

I don’t have the answers (obviously) so I’m just going to try to rule things out.

If a cylinder(s) is bad, I’ll fix it and move on to the next thing.
 
Update as promised. I got time to check the cylinders as Winston suggested. Sure enough, one lift cylinder was blown and both bucket seals.

I ordered all four cylinders new seals. I'll get them back together sometime next week depending on shipping speed.

Then on to the 3 point issue. Doesn't seem like cylinder seals could cause any problems back there but this will definitely get it closer to being usable.

Have a good weekend everybody.
 
Hello all, I have an update on the 2210's hydraulic problems. Monday all of the new seals came for my Koyker 110's 4 cylinders. I installed all of them this morning and reassembled everything. Started the tractor and let it warm up a little. The lift arms and bucket are working perfectly. I set the pressure relief valve on the hydraulic control to 2100 psi. Progress has been made......BUT....still no 3 point lift. Aside from it working last Sunday for a brief time as stated in an earlier post, it has been dead. I still have the "T" (tank) port on the control valve plumbed directly into the hydraulic oil fill hole as Winston suggested. It used to be plumbed into the "suction/fluid in" line to the pump and always worked fine but we wanted to eliminate a variable with the new control valve in case it didn't like that. Seemingly it has made no difference. When the 3 point did raise up last Sunday, I left it in the up position overnight and when I checked the height in the morning, it had not dropped at all so I would think that that rules out a bad seal on the lift cylinder. Any thoughts, I'd love to get this thing back to operating properly. Thank you for your help and replies. thebubbleboy
 
Hi Winston, I tried that with no success. I had some time a few days ago so I figured I would pull apart the 3 pieces on the axel assembly that have to do with the 3 point hydraulics and see what I would find.

Back plate (the plate that the top link attaches to): spotless inside and the round-headed push rod was attached to the heavy cast piece that raises the 3 point arms with a big roll pin. All ok.

Front plate/cylinder head: shut off valve functioned as it should, removed the piston, piston and cylinder looked great with no rust, scoring or gouges. Just because I have it apart, I ordered new seals for the piston and new o-rings for where the ports are in the cylinder head. They should be here Monday. The big o-ring on the piston looked a little worn but not to the point that it would do nothing. Remember that when I did get the 3 point to raise last week, it held it's maximum height overnight so I think that would rule out a bad seal on the piston anyways

Side cover: both roll pins that control the hydraulic valve were intact and tight. (I was hoping that maybe one had sheered and therefore the lift lever wasn't really doing anything but no) Inside was very clean. Romoved the control valve and disassembled it to inspect all of it's components. Everything looked great and tight. re-assembled it and set it back to exactly how it was before I tore it apart. I mic'd the amount of thread showing on each piston before disassembly and put it back as it was.

I'll post back next week after I try it out with the new seals.

thebubbleboy
 
I’m pretty confident. The pistons were in great shape as well as the two o-rings that are used to mount it. Everything looked great.

I guess if I get it back together when the parts come and it doesn’t work, it would have to be the control valve or how it’s adjusted. I just don’t see any way that it can’t be good. The thing looked like new, clearances all tight etc.

Do you or any other members have any information on adjusting the valve? The valve has threads on the end of each cylinder. I just put them back exactly as they were. They were all tight when I took it apart so it’s not like they worked loose and went out if adjustment.

Hopefully it will work when reassembled. The FEL works great. Works smooth and fast and has its power back. There just isn’t much to the 3 point system. Seems like it should work but what do I know? We are close. Thanks for all of your help.
 
You didn't say but I assume you believe your relief valves are both seating off. Always a possibility one of them unseated and failed to reseat.
 
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I really checked them over and they seem fine. Spring has great tension, ball and seat look good and clean, the big one had two shims on the top. The little one by the shut off valve was in great shape too. No shims but the ball, spring and seat looked good.

I’m looking forward to Monday if the parts come. I’m hoping it just works. Won’t take long to throw it together.
 
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