drsportster
Member
You think a container is hard to break into .How about a portable Sawzall and two minutes No torch required
Well you might not literally need a torch to get into a shipping container they are way more secure than some pole barn.What kind of container is that? I see, load, unload them all day and havent seen one yet that required a torch to get into unless there was a problem with the latches.
Down here in Texas we don't need to insulate!When you figure out how to build a 40x60, concreted, Insulated, heated and cooled for cheap please let us in on it, LOL
Well George. when I first moved to this what turned out to be a farm in 1978, my first building was a 40x40 x10' corrugated steel sheeted, wood framed building. I had 10" roof overhangs on a 3x12 pitched roof which I supposed would be adequate. First time a thunder storm happened upon me, the wind blew the rain that was coming off the roof into the air passage ways that I had allowed under the purlins......so much for that potential air conditioning ploy.My advice,
Check with your county appraiser and ask what the taxes will be first.
I was going to build a 40x60 until I found out what the property taxes would be.
I then decided on a 30x40x14 ft and made a second floor.
My taxes are based on the square feet, not the height.
I also found out I couldn't build on a vacant lot.
So I attached the vacant lot to my house's property adjacent to it.
I highly recommend putting even on the pole barn and putting windows under the vented eves.
I had a 10x10 ft overhead door too.
Check with your building inspector to see what he wants.
If you don't require a permit, check with reputable builders for their recommendations on the correct materials to use.
For $16,600 an Amish crew built my pole barn in days back in 2019 before the massive inflation. I did the ground work, Labor for my concrete finisher $1000 Concrete was around $2600 for a 6 inch floor with wire and plastic underneath. I was told my pole barn would cost about 2x what I spent.
With ridge vents and eve vents ZERO condensation issues.
In my opinion windows are like advertising online: ROBMENOW.COM
The clear siding under the vents is plenty of light in the daytime.
Well worth every penny. The loft is a great place to store things. I can easily add more lost space when needed
I think you should look at the cost of using the best materials, not the cheapest materials. Only use CCA treated lumber for poles and any wood that comes in contact with the ground, Inspector or no inspector, built to the right way.
The cost of materials from Menards was more than what it cost me from a local builder who used Amish labor.
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I don't have any personal contacts, but there are many listings on Facebook marketplace for trusses and some people that sell "kits" of used materials for any length building you want."Either go to Idabel for the monthly auction, or check it out on Proxibid. They're right across the highway from a metal siding/roofing manufacturer. There's always odd lots up for sale at the auction. I've bought some steel roofing real cheap from there."
Good information I'll have to check on that.
"In that area there are many 40' wide steel truss poultry houses being dismantled. This is going to be your cheapest option. If you are going to put all the money in concrete, insulation, HVAC, I don't know if it makes financial sense to go with used materials though."
Any references on where to find these used trusses and whatnot?
Given that I already own four containers that wouldn't cost anything. A crane for half a day to stack wouldn't be terrible expensive. Used 40' steel trusses could go on top and give 24' x 40' space under cover. Cut side doors into the containers for interior access. Dirt work cost mostly just diesel since I own backhoes and tractors. Electrical, HVAC, etc. I also do myself so just material costs there. I'll have to crunch the numbers when I have time and see what it would work out too.
We all want 10ac bomb proof shops with bridge cranes and enough HVAC to keep 80F year round, but I'm pretty poor and just need enough space where I can work in relative comfort to extend my life expectancy and perhaps make a small income doing odd repairs / job shop work.
This place puts up lots of buildings even up here at the bottom of the bluegrass.
JohnWell you might not literally need a torch to get into a shipping container they are way more secure than some pole barn.
Lets just leave it at a shipping containers are one of the most secure shed building options out there. Come hurricane tornado or beast a shipping container may falter but it will be the last building option standing for similar cost per sq ft.
The heck you don't, I've been in buildings where it looked like rain from the moisture dripping off under a cold roof.Down here in Texas we don't need to insulate!
Since shipping containers only require four point support, settling isn't a big deal. If it settles enough that the doors don't operate easily it only takes a few minutes to jack and shim a single point to adjust it.John
Where I live the ground will freeze and thaw. How will you prevent the shipping container from settling? Heavy rains will soften the ground and cause settling too. I built 10x10 storage sheds, they have settled. How will you keep critters from getting underneath shipping containers?
I had a critter get under my storage shed, pushing the dirt up for termites to eat the floor.
I don't think there is such a thing as a good cheap building.
That, and up here in NE TX you certainly need to insulate if you want any hope of comfort in the winter. It was 27F this morning.The heck you don't, I've been in buildings where it looked like rain from the moisture dripping off under a cold roof.
Yikes. Glad I beat the inflation bump of the last few years.I just took delivery of the trusses for my new 40x60 pole shed. Just basic with no floor or insulation, a 20' sliding door on each end and one man door. Over hangs on the gable ends but no eves. All done on my site the total cost is $48,000 with labor. I think materials were about $24,000, but that will be higher here because of the snow load.
I have gotten new tin surplus from my local Cleary headquarters, it will be mixed colors though.It will get down to zero with some regularity in the winter. Frost depth is supposed to be 20" though it's at the southern end of that band on the map so reality is probably a bit less. Generally I want to be able to keep the shop a stable temp to prevent condensation / rust issues on machines and probably 65F-85F depending on the season. I have containers, but I'm not sure those roof on container structures really make sense for anything but a covered unconditioned work area.
If you're doing the bulk yourself, pole barn is the cheapest route in that part of OK, and the concrete is where you want to pay someone. Metal is faster but the kit costs more up front, stick frame is the most expensive unless you're getting lumber cheap. Garman Builders does this kind of outbuilding work but they're PA based, so not much use in Oklahoma. And yeah, ik this thread is old, but if anyone's reading this later the local lumber yard is the best source for real region
Yup.When you figure out how to build a 40x60, concreted, Insulated, heated and cooled for cheap please let us in on it, LOL
Edit- I didn't realize this was two years old...Yup.
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