Need to build a shop on the cheap

Lots chicken houses are being torn down in eastern Oklahoma as we speak. Buy trusses cut short legs off and extend to your height. You can build with these cheaper than anything. They also sell metal sheeting. I was going to cover my corral until I talked to tax office. Used material didn’t make any difference on tax value. Crazy in Texas. I found everything on marketplace.
 
I needed a warehouse added to my molding room in 1980 and the bank didn't think they wanted to loan me the money. I was trying to store supplies out side with tarps.

I set the batter boards for a 30x 60. set stakes foe poles. I used my loader tractor and auger to set 6"X 6" on 8' centers. set the poles and braced them plumb and nailed 6" Penta on level with the help of my son and son in law. Ordered trusses and started to put 2"X 4"'s to nail steel siding on. I used a 2X 10"'s at the top to set the trusses on at 4' centers. I used the fence type rather than rerod in the cement. I stretched a line over the penta at every 4' driving rerod in the ground every 4' under the line across the width. With a front shoot on the cement trucks I was able to use a 4' bull float and level the cement to the top of the stakes and then step the stakes over. With my son pushing the cement into low areas the two of us was able to get it poured. I rented two power trowels and the two of us was able to finish the pour in one day. It took about three months to have it ready to use. I was able to pay all the material bills as they came due out of sales I set the trusses by raising the bed using 6"X 6" poles under the tail gate and over the cab. Lifted the trusses with a forklift to hook them to end of the pole. My son on one side and my son in law on the other spiking them fast.

That is how you build on the cheap. Both my son and son in law was on the factory pay roll.
 
Used drill stem truss being mounted with a Ford 800 and loader with extended forks. At the time, used stem was $1.22 per lin foot. Five in 12 pitch, used approx 61' of pipe, three mating fittings and some 6011 rod. Total cost per steel truss installed: $78.
20180528_121457.jpg
 
Well if you want cheap not sure you get to much. I'm building a 52 by 53 shop currently for my welding shop.. 4 foot concrete walls and floor. Walls will be 20/30 k ish. Floor will prob be around that. Then I'm installing the used steel building myself with a hired guy. Tin will be 8 or 10 k. Very simple electric service will be 10 k ish. Hoping to get it for 80. But I have 10 k in engineering plans due to county requirements A farm shop doesn't need plans here.
 
My advice,
Check with your county appraiser and ask what the taxes will be first.
I was going to build a 40x60 until I found out what the property taxes would be.
I then decided on a 30x40x14 ft and made a second floor.
My taxes are based on the square feet, not the height.
I also found out I couldn't build on a vacant lot.
So I attached the vacant lot to my house's property adjacent to it.
I highly recommend putting even on the pole barn and putting windows under the vented eves.
I had a 10x10 ft overhead door too.
Check with your building inspector to see what he wants.
If you don't require a permit, check with reputable builders for their recommendations on the correct materials to use.
For $16,600 an Amish crew built my pole barn in days back in 2019 before the massive inflation. I did the ground work, Labor for my concrete finisher $1000 Concrete was around $2600 for a 6 inch floor with wire and plastic underneath. I was told my pole barn would cost about 2x what I spent.
With ridge vents and eve vents ZERO condensation issues.
In my opinion windows are like advertising online: ROBMENOW.COM
The clear siding under the vents is plenty of light in the daytime.
Well worth every penny. The loft is a great place to store things. I can easily add more lost space when needed
I think you should look at the cost of using the best materials, not the cheapest materials. Only use CCA treated lumber for poles and any wood that comes in contact with the ground, Inspector or no inspector, built to the right way.
The cost of materials from Menards was more than what it cost me from a local builder who used Amish labor.
View attachment 97859View attachment 97860
Glad to see ya back George!!
 
My reply was to SkipperII who quoted Geo-TH and welcomed him back, missing the fact that the post he quoted was almost 2 years old. Geo-TH is not back.
My replies were not directed at anyone specifically, except the audience who is looking for cheap methods to build a shop. Frankly, I don't care who is, or isn't present and accounted for, and the date on the OPs post is meaningless when a thread comes up as 'What's new', and I have some possible data points that may be of probative value(for anyone).
 
Considered that. Others may find value in some money saving input - post 2024. No harm in reviving earlier commentary.
My reply was to SkipperII who quoted Geo-TH and welcomed him back, missing the fact that the post he quoted was almost 2 years old. Geo-TH is not back
My replies were not directed at anyone specifically, except the audience who is looking for cheap methods to build a shop. Frankly, I don't care who is, or isn't present and accounted for, and the date on the OPs post is meaningless when a thread comes up as 'What's new', and I have some possible data points that may be of probative value(for anyone).
Docm, Jim’s reply quoting SkipperII which basically means he is addressing what was said by SkipperII in that reply, has nothing to do with the value or how relative any added “on topic” comment/reply is to this thread. Whether this was posted today or two years ago. If I was adding something of “probative value” to the thread I would not give a seconds notice to what Jim is saying to SkipperII.
 
Last edited:
I know.. Post 55 identified it as two years old. My post 59 provided some cheap methods. Beyond that it was pointed out AGAIN that the thread was two years old. My reply after that should be read atomically, except that I replied to the 2nd notice that this thread was revived, and I didn't care about any of that, my contributions stand alone and typically should be taken atomically, and not directed at anyone(unless I use a posters name/handle).

It's common practice when replying directly to another user to identify them, typically with '@<username>' or, simply by writing 'hey Jim.....'. In the future I will go back to my usual method of rarely, almost never using quotation.
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top