Help! We have a farmall 544 we have been trying to get fixed for 3 years.

[t2kjoe]

The local farm dealer sent a mechanic her said get a new one, we don't want a new one they can't fix either.
Here's the problem, the tractor will run but does under load and we can't get the carburetor to quit leaking from the carburetor. It had a marvel schebler carburator we had it rebuilt it still leaked and died under load. We installed a new zenith carburetor, it still leaks. And does under load.New distributor.

We aren't great mechanics but every time we have taken one of our tractors in to the mechanic, we end up fixing it ourselves with the help of you guys. This one really has us stumped.

Would the throttle cause the leaking? Any ideas where we should go from here?

Thank you,

 

[Oakridgewelding]

Was the throttle shaft seal replaced? If those leak it's extra air that will mess up the running. If it's leaking, check the needle set seal.

 

[old]

The local farm dealer sent a mechanic her said get a new one, we don't want a new one they can't fix either.
Here's the problem, the tractor will run but does under load and we can't get the carburetor to quit leaking from the carburetor. It had a marvel schebler carburator we had it rebuilt it still leaked and died under load. We installed a new zenith carburetor, it still leaks. And does under load.New distributor.

We aren't great mechanics but every time we have taken one of our tractors in to the mechanic, we end up fixing it ourselves with the help of you guys. This one really has us stumped.

Would the throttle cause the leaking? Any ideas where we should go from here?

Thank you,

You say the carb leaks but you don't say if it leaks from a gasket area or if it leaks out of the air cleaner tube or where. Hard for use to help you help your self with out more info

 

[ss55]

The local farm dealer sent a mechanic her said get a new one, we don't want a new one they can't fix either.
Here's the problem, the tractor will run but does under load and we can't get the carburetor to quit leaking from the carburetor. It had a marvel schebler carburator we had it rebuilt it still leaked and died under load. We installed a new zenith carburetor, it still leaks. And does under load.New distributor.

We aren't great mechanics but every time we have taken one of our tractors in to the mechanic, we end up fixing it ourselves with the help of you guys. This one really has us stumped.

Would the throttle cause the leaking? Any ideas where we should go from here?

Thank you,

Question: The description is a bit hard to follow. It stumbles under load, or it backfires under load, or it smokes under load, or it does something else under load?

The three basics to check first are compression, fuel and spark. Ignition timing and carburetor adjustments make a big difference when fine tuning.

Is this a new to you tractor with an unknow history, or do you already know the tractor well, it was working good for years until something bad suddenly happened to it?

 

[Powered By IH]

The local farm dealer sent a mechanic her said get a new one, we don't want a new one they can't fix either.
Here's the problem, the tractor will run but does under load and we can't get the carburetor to quit leaking from the carburetor. It had a marvel schebler carburator we had it rebuilt it still leaked and died under load. We installed a new zenith carburetor, it still leaks. And does under load.New distributor.

We aren't great mechanics but every time we have taken one of our tractors in to the mechanic, we end up fixing it ourselves with the help of you guys. This one really has us stumped.

Would the throttle cause the leaking? Any ideas where we should go from here?

Thank you,

Did you re-adjust the carburetor after it got installed on the tractor?

 

[Janicholson]

If three different carbs didn't make a change, there may be a distributor/timing issue. If the points are too close, or the distributor shaft bushing is worn it will act that way and possibly spit compression back causing the gas to leak out (especially into the air intake) Jim

 

[MKinON]

Following what Jim said, our MF 135 eventually just didn’t want to run properly, spitting fuel, misfiring, backfiring, stumbling, you name it. No adjusting the carb or timing would help. Checked the points gap again and found the points spring had lost its tension. New points and all was well again.

 

[560Dennis]

No the throttle will not cause leaks . Carburetor issues .
Check float test ,remove it put in refrigerator to get it cold. Then put in submerge in hot water if air bubbles are visible the repair it.
Clean carburetor , must be through clean too.
Check float seating again with or with out gasket as manual states .
Inspection of needle and set . Dirt is holding open enough to cause leak by.
Replace or cleaner input screen in input fittings s
Clean fuel line ,clean sediment bowl ,clean fuel tank .
Suggest for correction of issue you posted.

 

[t2kjoe]

You say the carb leaks but you don't say if it leaks from a gasket area or if it leaks out of the air cleaner tube or where. Hard for use to help you help your self with out more info

Sorry it is leaking from the vent in the bottom of the carburetor. The needle looks good and it is new.

 

[t2kjoe]

No the throttle will not cause leaks . Carburetor issues .
Check float test ,remove it put in refrigerator to get it cold. Then put in submerge in hot water if air bubbles are visible the repair it.
Clean carburetor , must be through clean too.
Check float seating again with or with out gasket as manual states .
Inspection of needle and set . Dirt is holding open enough to cause leak by.
Replace or cleaner input screen in input fittings s
Clean fuel line ,clean sediment bowl ,clean fuel tank .
Suggest for correction of issue you posted.

Thank you were will try this.

 

[MKinON]

Sorry it is leaking from the vent in the bottom of the carburetor. The needle looks good and it is new.

I’ve yet to see a carb with a vent at the bottom. Maybe a leaking drain, or possibly idle cut-off solenoid, or even an adjustable jet.

 

[NDIHC]

I’ve yet to see a carb with a vent at the bottom. Maybe a leaking drain, or possibly idle cut-off solenoid, or even an adjustable jet.

I'm assuming it's the sintered brass drain at the bottom of the carb. It lets gas drain if the float bowl overflows gas into the throat of the carburetor. Most likely a leaking needle and seat, float out of adjustment or binding somewhere or a gas logged float.

 

[t2kjoe]

Question: The description is a bit hard to follow. It stumbles under load, or it backfires under load, or it smokes under load, or it does something else under load?

The three basics to check first are compression, fuel and spark. Ignition timing and carburetor adjustments make a big difference when fine tuning.

Is this a new to you tractor with an unknow history, or do you already know the tractor well, it was working good for years until something bad suddenly happened to it?l

It stumbles under load and dies. We test compression and new spark plugs and distributor. We had timing checked they said it was ok but we are wondering about trying it on our own again. We have had the tractor for a couple years before the trouble but did but it used. So we don't know it great yet.
Thank you

 

[t2kjoe]

I'm assuming it's the sintered brass drain at the bottom of the carb. It lets gas drain if the float bowl overflows gas into the throat of the carburetor. Most likely a leaking needle and seat, float out of adjustment or binding somewhere or a gas logged float.

Yes it is a brass drain at the bottom. We will recheck the needle, seat and float again. Where it was a new carburetor we haven't tore it apart. But we will.
Thank you

 

[the tractior vet]

The local farm dealer sent a mechanic her said get a new one, we don't want a new one they can't fix either.
Here's the problem, the tractor will run but does under load and we can't get the carburetor to quit leaking from the carburetor. It had a marvel schebler carburator we had it rebuilt it still leaked and died under load. We installed a new zenith carburetor, it still leaks. And does under load.New distributor.

We aren't great mechanics but every time we have taken one of our tractors in to the mechanic, we end up fixing it ourselves with the help of you guys. This one really has us stumped.

Would the throttle cause the leaking? Any ideas where we should go from here?

Thank you,

Well here is my thoughts , The warm BODY the dealer sent out is NOT a real mechanic . He is a parts replacer . A real OLD mechanic will fix the issue . Myself personally have worked on carbs a vary LONG time and only had one in all those years that flat up and drove me up a wall . Since your sorta new to this world of tractors ya have to understand that with a up draft carb will Do some dripping once it is shut down , it is just the nature of the beast . BUT if it is pouring out a steady stream well then ya have and issue . Since i personally can not see or test this tractor i can not give a true recommendation of what all is going on . You may have issues else where , like in the dist. and ya just can't go swapping them out of one that looks just like it . The inside timing advance curve is not the same and this affect performance . Carb settings affects performance , the gas of today affects OLD engine performance and i am not talking about the old LEADED gas . NOBODY reads the ORG manual to see what that tractor requires to get max performance . The NEW KIDS working in Ag service dept's don't know or understand the OLD IRON and they can't plug in there lap tops to tell them what is wrong or how to fix it . US OLD GUYS who have worked on the OLD IRON for a living we are getting fewer by the day . We have ideas of what MAY BE wrong but were are NOT standing there ourselfs . We USE to have Pete 23 , and Owen on here who worked for I H that had years behind them and a wealth of knowledge . Me i went full time back in 83 in on farm repair and in 85 into repair and used equipment buying and selling and specialized in IH and that BUYING was also my way of learning and buying what others threw away ya learned how to fix and do it right . People forget how many good jobs ya do but ya screw up one time and four countys around ya hear about it in less the 24 hours and that does not pay the rent . Now as to the ORG carb that tractor came with as long as it is NOT broken or cracked INSIDE it can be rebuild buy and OLD GUY that has done many . And a few drips out the bottom of a updraft carb is NORMAL but a steady run gas tank draining run is not . Ing timing has to be correct thru the whole operating range of the engine , valves adjustment has to be maintained as these OLD engines do NOT have hyd valve lifters like a car or pick up and once again this is not something everybody can do correctly as it is becoming a lost art to have the FEEL and a sloopy valve adjustment affect performance .

 

[the tractior vet]

It stumbles under load and dies. We test compression and new spark plugs and distributor. We had timing checked they said it was ok but we are wondering about trying it on our own again. We have had the tractor for a couple years before the trouble but did but it used. So we don't know it great yet.
Thank you

Need more info , What did your compression test show?????? what plugs are you running ??? did you check the advance of the dist from ideal to W O T ???? are up running solid copper core wires ???? How much slop in the dist shaft ????? Is the carb set for max load running 4-5 five full turns off the seat or does it have the solenoid still on it and is it working if it is ???? . Are you running the cheape4st gas ya can find ??? THAT IS THE WRONG GAS TO BE RUNNING . The 544 GAS like all the GAS line up from back in that era called for a MIN . of 93 Octane , think i am kidding ya then read the ORG owners manual . Bad in them GOOD OLD DAYS the reg gas at the pump at the full service gas stations was 95 and for us nut case performance guys that had what ya'll call Muscle cars they got fed a min of 105 or better , and the 93 was what the COOPS sold to farms or the elcheapo stations sold to the public for three cents a gallon less the what the normal stations sold and that stuff would make a old wore out 6 cylinder Chevy ping and knock and make your rope start lawnmower had to start . Around me we had a lot of OLD gas tractors and over the years we fought many issues of poor running gassers . I ran gas powered equipment for years in my hobby farming because it was CHEAPER to buy , easy to maintain , easier to get gas anytime i wanted and i did not have to have a large bulk fuel tank just a clean 55 gallon drum and a hand pump to start then a bed tank that i could fill with a 110 gallon at the gas station . It took me a long time to figure out why i was NOT having the ISSUES that i was seeing with the customers were having . My pick ups were NOT 100% stock off the show room floor . My 1973 Ford F 250 4X4 did NOT have the factory dead dog 360 2 BBl under the hood , what was under the hood was a factory new 1969 428 S/CJ four bbl with a 11 to 1 compression ration a new in the crate ready to run Ford Drag club left over from the Ford Drag Club drag racing days built to the drag team . It got fed pump high test of 105 or better depending on stations . What the truck got fed it what i ran in my tractor and combine . IN Nov of 77 i bought a new Ford F 250 4X4 that came with the 400 boat anchor . That truck was a factory lemon and man i had big time issues with it and that one i ran the REG no lead gas like the BOOK called for till the warranty ran out and the second engine took a dump and in it's place went a 1970 460 four bbl and it got fed the hightest and spring was appon us and the tractor was woke up and back in the field and dinning on the good stuff with no issues . BUT others where calling and i was working on them and working on them . Then my close friend had the first major engine failure and the moment i opened it up and saw the carnage it hit me and knew the issues i was seeing was fuel related and at the time i had just bought a 706 gas off the org owner out in Bern In. and got my first ORG owners manual and started reading and in the section of fuel there is where i found the fuel required to that gas engine , That 706 was a 1966 model and it stated MINIUM octane of 93 was required . and i started digging more and found that the 460-560 needed no less then 89 octane . And by 1975 the Gas farm tractor era was now dead and GONE and by the mid 80 the Octane was dropping . In 1972 the performance car was dead castrated over night across the whole line up of every mfg. Back in those times i was working in the car dealers and as a parts manager i was allowed the perks of management DEMOS and this dealership stocked and sold the Plymouth line up , my demo's were the Road Runner's , GTX's Cuda's and Dusters . 340- 426 hemi's mostly four gear cars . My new Demo was a GTX 440 and the serive manager and i took it out for it 's first shell we say test drive and the difference between the 71 year model and the NEW off the truck 72 was DEPRESSING as a 1971 Fury with a 318 would have eaten it alive . Now today you guys buy these old tractors that god only knows how bad they were beat micky moused by who ever over 50 years and expect them to run like new . Can it be done yep but ya need and OLD Goat to get them to and ya need to feed them a diet they can digest. . Your 87-89 octane gas of today is made to run way hotter and flash burn . Todays gas engines are fuel injected computer controlled with knock sensors that control ing timing . OLD tractors are updraft inefficient with a old world out dated ing system that is a crude centrifical advanced timing that does not retrad when per ing. knock is starting and you will not hear it by ear . Your loss of power and dying under load could be the pistons ar3e super heating and expanding digging into the cyliner walls . This comndition i have seen many times on tractors from the late fifty's thru the last of the gassers . They do not like your Al-KI-HOL laced gas at all PERIOD . I would recomend you pull the plugs and get a bore scope in the holes ans LOOK . Ya can get a hald decent bore scope on AMAZONE with a short 3-4 foot leed like the one i have . Not a tool i use often but man it sure helpd getting a look see where ya can't see till ya do a tear down . If you were with in say 30 miles of me i would come look and tell ya what is wrong and how and IF it can be and easy fix or not . BUT we are not running across the country Since RED never left me a neat paid for LEAR JET .

 

[the tractior vet]

The more i think about it he is having piston swelling due to low octane and his carb leaking is the normal drip drip drip after shut down ya get with every updraft carb on the planet . Ya can't run 87 octane and try and work it . Now if some wizz kid would come up with fuel injection and compure controled ing and injection then maybe ya could run the 87 . I bet if you took a look inside that 544 you would see scored walls and piston damage. And IF we could find true Fordged Pistons like they had when they were built . These Cast pistons can't take the new hotter burning gas. All the gas engines i have been into all show the same carnage , and this take plce above the top ring where the piston is a smaller Dia. then the skirt area by .019- .021 . That piston can and will swell way over that and most times plum lock the engine up till it cools for around a half hour then fire back up with a slight to decent knock and if you try to put it back to work it will die even faster and lock again. .

 

[Hemmjo]

I’ve yet to see a carb with a vent at the bottom. Maybe a leaking drain, or possibly idle cut-off solenoid, or even an adjustable jet.

My Ford 860 has a drain/"vent" in the bottom of the updraft marvel schebler carburator. It is just a hole with a sintered bronze plug in it. If that vent gets plugged up, and the needle/seat does not seal, fuel cannot escape, it will fill the throttle body until it gets to the level of the choke and throttle plate shafts, then leak out those shafts. I have never seen an "updraft" carb without a "vent"/drain in the bottom

 

[JIM MN]

What are your compression readings?