Trying remove/reseal hyd line on JD 2020

[Rapid Rick]

I have a leak starting where the hyd line from the hyd pump goes into the transmission case. I had to make repair the flare on the other end where it attaches to the pump and must have upset the seal on the transmission end. I tried to pull it out to see how to fix or reseal it. It seems to be quite stuck in that port. Which is a good thing cause now I realize I have to drain the transmission first. Anyone have any experience getting this line out? It doesn’t move. Except to start leaking. Specifically it’s the line on the left.

 

[Jim.ME]

I have a leak starting where the hyd line from the hyd pump goes into the transmission case. I had to make repair the flare on the other end where it attaches to the pump and must have upset the seal on the transmission end. I tried to pull it out to see how to fix or reseal it. It seems to be quite stuck in that port. Which is a good thing cause now I realize I have to drain the transmission first. Anyone have any experience getting this line out? It doesn’t move. Except to start leaking. Specifically it’s the line on the left. View attachment 77225

You will likely need to free it from the clamps that hold it to the other lines, and probably unhook the pump end to get it out.

There are seal washer the ends of those lines push against (JD part Number R1662R) inside the hole, get those from John Deere. Also be aware there may be a check valve assembly, in that line, you do not want to lose. The ball, spring, and guide are inside the tube and the seat is in the transmission hole. The guide clips over the seat and retains the ball and spring. You may want to consider resealing both tubes, changing the transmission filter and cleaning the pump suction screen in the transmission while you are doing this.

 

[deeretails]

You'll need to unhook the front end and then remove the clamp plate. There's only an o-ring and rust holding it in, twist and pull. New lines are still available, I just replaced all of them on my 2020.

 

[Jim.ME]

You'll need to unhook the front end and then remove the clamp plate. There's only an o-ring and rust holding it in, twist and pull. New lines are still available, I just replaced all of them on my 2020.

The correct seals behind those tubes are square cut packing rings, not O-rings or quad rings.

 

[Rapid Rick]

Some very helpful comments. Like changing the filter. Probably hasn’t been done on this family owned tractor in 40 years. And when I was fixing the flare on the hydraulic pump, I had the line clamps off and I tried to take the line out of the transmission, but it wouldn’t move. Only apparently enough though to start leaking. I wanted to get that line out of the way of the pump while I was working up there. I’m glad it didn’t move at that time. I hadn’t yet known about the check ball and that removing the line would probably inadvertently drain the transmission. It’s just that it seems like it’s really stuck (how can it be rusty in there when it’s literally surrounded by oil) and not a good way to grab it and work it out. I’m thinking a quality vise-grip? I do have two new John Deere seals on order for the lines.
Again fellas, thanks for the helpful comments.

 

[Jim.ME]

Some very helpful comments. Like changing the filter. Probably hasn’t been done on this family owned tractor in 40 years. And when I was fixing the flare on the hydraulic pump, I had the line clamps off and I tried to take the line out of the transmission, but it wouldn’t move. Only apparently enough though to start leaking. I wanted to get that line out of the way of the pump while I was working up there. I’m glad it didn’t move at that time. I hadn’t yet known about the check ball and that removing the line would probably inadvertently drain the transmission. It’s just that it seems like it’s really stuck (how can it be rusty in there when it’s literally surrounded by oil) and not a good way to grab it and work it out. I’m thinking a quality vise-grip? I do have two new John Deere seals on order for the lines.
Again fellas, thanks for the helpful comments.

"(how can it be rusty in there when it’s literally surrounded by oil)"

The seals mate to the face of those tubes, not the outer diameter. It is not surrounded by oil, the seal on the face keeps oil going inside the tube, they can rust in the housing bore and outer diameter of the tube end, which are outside of the oil. With the clamps off and the tube free on the pump end it will come out with some wiggling.

The check valve seat is in the transmission bore. (If your 2020 has the hydraulic Hi-LO or reverser it may not have the ball, spring, and retainer.) The ball and spring are held to the seat with a clip-on retainer. It is likely you will dislodge it during the tube removal. Once apart you may find you need to replace the spring and retainer as the springs get weak and the clips break off the retainers. The 2020 Service Manual (SM2072) has info on it and removal of these tubes.

 

[Rapid Rick]

"(how can it be rusty in there when it’s literally surrounded by oil)"

The seals mate to the face of those tubes, not the outer diameter. It is not surrounded by oil, the seal on the face keeps oil going inside the tube, they can rust in the housing bore and outer diameter of the tube end, which are outside of the oil. With the clamps off and the tube free on the pump end it will come out with some wiggling.

The check valve seat is in the transmission bore. (If your 2020 has the hydraulic Hi-LO or reverser it may not have the ball, spring, and retainer.) The ball and spring are held to the seat with a clip-on retainer. It is likely you will dislodge it during the tube removal. Once apart you may find you need to replace the spring and retainer as the springs get weak and the clips break off the retainers. The 2020 Service Manual (SM2072) has info on it and removal of these tubes.

View attachment 77363

Jim, thank you for further details, helpful tips and a great picture!

 

[Rapid Rick]

I hate to admit this, and maybe someone can learn from this, but the leaking tubes could have been mechanic caused. After I replaced the seals in the tubes, they were leaking even more that before. I was stumped. Then I noticed that the lock washer on the hold down bolt didn’t seem completely compressed. I had the bolt tight. And as I removed the bolt it seemed to have resistance on the way out, like the threads were slightly damaged. I then found a bolt that was about 1/4” shorter. I tightended it down and the clamp pulled the tubes in tight to the transmission case and no leaks. When I worked on that tube the first time, to repair the flare at the pump, I may have gotten the bolt mixed up with one of the clamp bolts. Just when I thought I was a careful mechanic, I found out not careful enough. Just passing this along in case it could help someone else out in the future.

 

[Jim.ME]

I hate to admit this, and maybe someone can learn from this, but the leaking tubes could have been mechanic caused. After I replaced the seals in the tubes, they were leaking even more that before. I was stumped. Then I noticed that the lock washer on the hold down bolt didn’t seem completely compressed. I had the bolt tight. And as I removed the bolt it seemed to have resistance on the way out, like the threads were slightly damaged. I then found a bolt that was about 1/4” shorter. I tightended it down and the clamp pulled the tubes in tight to the transmission case and no leaks. When I worked on that tube the first time, to repair the flare at the pump, I may have gotten the bolt mixed up with one of the clamp bolts. Just when I thought I was a careful mechanic, I found out not careful enough. Just passing this along in case it could help someone else out in the future.

Good to hear you got it.

Parts catalog calls for that to be a 3/8" x 1-1/8" cap screw. As well as bolt length, I have seen some where the cap screw hole area is bent, not straight, from tightening forces over time. The bend will lessen the clamping force and sometimes turning it end for end improves clamping force.

 

[Jim.MD]

I read your July 2024 discussion about repairing leaking hydraulic lines on your John Deere 2020 tractor, and was thrilled to find this thread and all the information it contains.

I have a John Deere 2020 High Utility gasoline tractor with what appears to be the same problem. The two hydraulic lines were held by a hand-tightened bolt. It turned out, it is the correct bolt and includes a lock washer. I was able to tighten the bolt but could not get the tube ends to go in any further. Not to long ago, I had the clutch replaced and at the same time, a quick shot of spray paint was applied in the area that now leaks. The end of the hydraulic lines show clearly how far they were inserted in the transmission. There is easily 1/4" or more of unpainted metal indicating to me the lines are not inserted far enough to prevent a leak. I want to inspect the mating ports in the transmission. Since I don't know if a check valve or a R1662R washer is installed in either line, I want to check that out before I start to reassemble. Any pointers on that portion of the process would be much appreciated.

Rapid Rick- Did replacing the bolt completely eliminate your leak, and has the repair held up? Also, did you replace both R1662R seals?

Thank fellas for all your help and advice.

 

[Jim.ME]

If the seals were not replaced or the wrong ones used that could be the leak. Drain the transmission, pull the lines and see what is there; is the best I have. Use the Service Manual and Parts Catalog to be sure everything is there and in the right order. If you look at the Parts Catalog the retainer (T23059) has a slight bent at the top where it goes against the transmission. That helps put more pressure on the line ends when the bolt holding it is tightened. Be sure it still has the bend and is the correct side up. Make sure the retainer bolt is the correct length (no longer than called for).

 

[Rapid Rick]

Jim MD, fortunately putting in the correct size bolt (that was not bottoming out) fixed the issue and has not been leaking anymore.