Winter storage on an 8N, movin from TN to OH this year

[PSI28]

Been wrenchin on old iron 30+ years but just moved from middle Tennessee up to central Ohio this summer, and the 51 8N came with me. Down south I just topped her off with Sta-Bil and parked her. First real northern winter comin so figured Id ask before I assume.
Side dist, TSX-241 I kitted 3 years back, still 6V pos ground, 2 year old Grp 1 up front. Barn is uninsulated pole, dry but gonna swing well below freezin.
Run the Marvel dry or leave the bowl full with stabilizer? Trickle tender in the barn or pull it inside? Anything specific to the side dist Id wanna hit before she sits 5 months? Appreciate what you northern fellas learned the hard way.

 

[DanielW]

This subject always comes up a few times around this time of year, and there are a lot of strong opinions. For me, it's definitely leave the tank full with a good dose of stabilizer in it (run it a bit too, so the stabilizer makes it's way through the carb and lines). My grandfather and father were always fans of running things dry. When they did that, it seemed like every year two or three engines needed the float/needle cleaned and unstuck or a carb diaphragm went hard. Haven't had any problem since we started just keeping them full with stabilizer. This summer I fired up a Fordson Major gasser that had been parked for two winters. Fired up instantly on that old gas and purred like a kitten.

My logic is that when run dry, you leave the tank exposed for condensation. And you have all those lines and carb bowl with a thin trace of fuel in them, but lots of open air to oxidize it and make it turn into varnish. When kept full, at least there's no air to make it oxidize and go punky.

 

[Ed S.]

Howdy, former neighbor!

We lived in The Middle West on a small farm for a bit over 18 years and saw winter temps down to -25*F on occasion. My ‘50 (6V front mount) sat in an uninsulated machine shed; I topped it off with stabilized gas (as I did with all my gas equipment), and never had a problem. Make sure your antifreeze can handle the lower temps and you should be good to go!

 

[bradleydavidgood]

This subject always comes up a few times around this time of year, and there are a lot of strong opinions. For me, it's definitely leave the tank full with a good dose of stabilizer in it (run it a bit too, so the stabilizer makes it's way through the carb and lines). My grandfather and father were always fans of running things dry. When they did that, it seemed like every year two or three engines needed the float/needle cleaned and unstuck or a carb diaphragm went hard. Haven't had any problem since we started just keeping them full with stabilizer. This summer I fired up a Fordson Major gasser that had been parked for two winters. Fired up instantly on that old gas and purred like a kitten.

My logic is that when run dry, you leave the tank exposed for condensation. And you have all those lines and carb bowl with a thin trace of fuel in them, but lots of open air to oxidize it and make it turn into varnish. When kept full, at least there's no air to make it oxidize and go punky.

This makes a lot of sense to me. Thank you for sharing it.

 

[Jim L WA]

PS128, welcome to the forum. You're plans are all sound. No need to take the battery inside as long as you can keep the Battery Tender on it.
You might want to block or tie the clutch pedal down to keep the clutch disk from sticking.

 

[Hobo,NC]

On a N that would set for awhile I would run the carb dry. I don't keep my fuel tanks full I keep about what I think I need to do a job. If I have a tank with rust I coat it with por-15. On my thousand series gassers I just fire it up 2/3 times a winter just like I do all my lawn mowers. All get fuel stabilizer and maybe a dash of ATF in what little fuel is left. I have a few gallons of 2cyl oil I should be using that.

 

[PSI28]

PS128, welcome to the forum. You're plans are all sound. No need to take the battery inside as long as you can keep the Battery Tender on it.
You might want to block or tie the clutch pedal down to keep the clutch disk from sticking.

Jim, that tip about blocking the clutch pedal is a lifesaver. I would've hated to find a stuck clutch come spring. I'll get that tied down today.

 

[PSI28]

Thanks for the replies, guys.
I think I'll go with topping the tank off with stabilized non-ethanol gas and running it through. The condensation in a half-empty tank up here in the humidity and cold sounds like a recipe for rust. I'll also double-check the antifreeze to make sure it can handle the sub-zero temps.
Appreciate all the help!

 

[OldBlue61]

Thanks for the replies, guys.
I think I'll go with topping the tank off with stabilized non-ethanol gas and running it through. The condensation in a half-empty tank up here in the humidity and cold sounds like a recipe for rust. I'll also double-check the antifreeze to make sure it can handle the sub-zero temps.
Appreciate all the help!

This is exactly what I do - I always run non-ethanol fuel in all my outdoor equipment, along w/ adding stabilizer this time of year. All of my equipment also has a battery tender on it. My '94 Ranger (which rarely gets driven) is still rockin' an almost 10 year old battery now. It's always on a battery tender if in the barn.

In a few more weeks, my 8N will go into hybernation. Over the winter months it will only be used to plow the driveway should we get a measurable amount of snow. Other than that, it will sit until spring when I get it out to work around the property again.