How bad are JD 2010 tractor hydraulics?

[ironandsteel]

I may be getting a John Deere gas 2010 from a neighbor for free or very cheap. It has not run in years and he said there was a hydraulic leak from the pump.
I hope to get it running and dedicate it to running a 3 point log splitter.
It should be straightforward to get the engine running, but I'm wondering about the hydraulics and the pump. I've read that this model has a bad reputation in this regard. Should I just walk away and avoid a rats nest of problems?

 

[ss55]

I may be getting a John Deere gas 2010 from a neighbor for free or very cheap. It has not run in years and he said there was a hydraulic leak from the pump.
I hope to get it running and dedicate it to running a 3 point log splitter.
It should be straightforward to get the engine running, but I'm wondering about the hydraulics and the pump. I've read that this model has a bad reputation in this regard. Should I just walk away and avoid a rats nest of problems?

Check the serial number to determine the year made. Early builds had the most problems that were somewhat improved on the later builds. Maybe get an inexpensive I&T service manual and an operators manual to get familiar with the unique design.

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/JD21_9092.htm

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/JDSSM2035_13016.htm

Even the engine used a unique sleeve deck design.

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/John-Deere-2010_Cylinder-Liner-Deck-Plate_AT15761.html

 

[JD Dave]

A 2010 gas is a better bet than a diesel but still and all, 2010's are probably John Deere's biggest blunders ever. The design was bad, the engines were a nightmare and the hydraulics were weak and parts are scarce. I'm unsure if the hydraulics are even able to run a splitter.

 

[bus7260]

i have one the lift works fine just no depth control the gas engine is a good motor easy to work on.

 

[Jim.ME]

I may be getting a John Deere gas 2010 from a neighbor for free or very cheap. It has not run in years and he said there was a hydraulic leak from the pump.
I hope to get it running and dedicate it to running a 3 point log splitter.
It should be straightforward to get the engine running, but I'm wondering about the hydraulics and the pump. I've read that this model has a bad reputation in this regard. Should I just walk away and avoid a rats nest of problems?

The 2010 hydraulic system was only rated at 1150 PSI, which is low pressure by today's standards. I doubt you will be happy with your wood splitter if you plan on running it from the tractor hydraulic system. I am going to say 1150 PSI is about half of what most wood splitters use.

 

[Tx Jim]

2010 hydraulic system left a lot to be desired!!!!

2010 didn't get labeled "sorriest JD tractor built" by accident they earned that title.

 

[Hay maker2]

Not enough hydraulic capacity. If you still want it, get a PTO hydraulic pump and you will be fine.

 

[ss55]

The 2010 hydraulic system was only rated at 1150 PSI, which is low pressure by today's standards. I doubt you will be happy with your wood splitter if you plan on running it from the tractor hydraulic system. I am going to say 1150 PSI is about half of what most wood splitters use.

Most small engine powered log splitters use a 3000 PSI dual stage pump to achieve fast extend until hard resistance is met and also fast retract. A small engine would only burn one third to one quarter as much fuel as a 45 HP tractor running at fast idle ( PTO speed under light load to get sufficient GPM flow ).

I am not sure how the GPM's compare. A 1150 PSI splitter will require a cylinder at least 60 percent larger diameter to the same splitting force as a 3000 PSI splitter.

 

[Jim.ME]

Most small engine powered log splitters use a 3000 PSI dual stage pump to achieve fast extend until hard resistance is met and also fast retract. A small engine would only burn one third to one quarter as much fuel as a 45 HP tractor running at fast idle ( PTO speed under light load to get sufficient GPM flow ).

I am not sure how the GPM's compare. A 1150 PSI splitter will require a cylinder at least 60 percent larger diameter to the same splitting force as a 3000 PSI splitter.

True for splitters with their own engine and pump. Comparing the 2010 to other tractors that are used to run 3-point wood splitters (which was the type asked about here), the 2010 only has one half or less of the pressure of many tractors.

I am in the school of a stand-alone splitter with its own engine and pump is more economical if you split much wood. I guess a case can be made if the use is not much yearly the 3-point type eliminates one engine and the issues that might come with it for setting a lot. I do have a trailer mounted splitter that will split 4-foot wood, it has a self-contained hydraulic system with a PTO driven pump. It does not get much use many years. It uses a good bit more fuel than the smaller engine driven ones, when used for up to the 24" wood, which the smaller splitters can handle.

 

[ironandsteel]

I dragged the 2010 home today. The sn says that it is a 1961 - 1st year of production, which is not ideal. It has 1049 hours on it. My neighbor said that it was running when he parked it. He used it to bush hog.

So far, it looks decent- oil looks fine. Gas tank is bone dry, so maybe the carb is not totally varnished up. I pulled the plugs and they looked fine. I shot some acetone/atf in there and will see if it is stuck tomorrow.

Re the hydraulics, that is bad news about the low pressure and capacity. I want to look into PTO driven hydraulic pumps. I bet they are pricey- maybe i could build one.

I have a dedicated self powered splitter but I found that my 3 point splitter worked considerably better. I was running it from the hydraulic remotes on m New Holland skid steer. It worked great, but I don't like tying up the skid steer.

 

[rrlund]

I dragged the 2010 home today. The sn says that it is a 1961 - 1st year of production, which is not ideal. It has 1049 hours on it. My neighbor said that it was running when he parked it. He used it to bush hog.

So far, it looks decent- oil looks fine. Gas tank is bone dry, so maybe the carb is not totally varnished up. I pulled the plugs and they looked fine. I shot some acetone/atf in there and will see if it is stuck tomorrow.

Re the hydraulics, that is bad news about the low pressure and capacity. I want to look into PTO driven hydraulic pumps. I bet they are pricey- maybe i could build one.

I have a dedicated self powered splitter but I found that my 3 point splitter worked considerably better. I was running it from the hydraulic remotes on m New Holland skid steer. It worked great, but I don't like tying up the skid steer.

Convert your splitter to mount on the 3pt and leave the engine and everything on it. Cheaper than a PTO pump.

 

[ironandsteel]

Convert your splitter to mount on the 3pt and leave the engine and everything on it. Cheaper than a PTO pump.

No, it is not as strong as the 3 point splitter. The standalone I think has a 3 inch cylinder and the 3 point has a 4 inch. Also, the engine on the standalone is always a pain to start.
I am looking into pto pumps now.

 

[Jim.ME]

No, it is not as strong as the 3 point splitter.
I am looking into pto pumps now.

My splitter with its own engine and two-stage pump is stronger than the big splitter with the PTO pump. What is the diameter of the cylinder on your three-point splitter?

You will need to add a reservoir for the PTO pump, filter and a control valve. The reservoir should have a capacity at least equal to the pump volume plus room for expansion.

 

[ironandsteel]

My splitter with its own engine and two-stage pump is stronger than the big splitter with the PTO pump. What is the diameter of the cylinder on your three-point splitter?

You will need to add a reservoir for the PTO pump, filter and a control valve. The reservoir should have a capacity at least equal to the pump volume plus room for expansion.

I think the self powered on has a 3: cylinder and the 3 point is 4". Also, I like being able to roll a big log onto the 3 point splitter- no lifting.

 

[ironandsteel]

I wonder if there is any possibility of replacing the 2010 hydraulic pump with a stronger one?

 

[Jim.ME]

I think the self powered on has a 3: cylinder and the 3 point is 4". Also, I like being able to roll a big log onto the 3 point splitter- no lifting.

The cylinder size is likely the biggest reason your 3-point splitter is stronger. Relief pressure on the two hydraulic systems would tell the rest of the story.

 

[Jim.ME]

I wonder if there is any possibility of replacing the 2010 hydraulic pump with a stronger one?

I would say not in a practical manner, as it ties into a system not designed for the pressure you want to use.

 

[ironandsteel]

I put a battery in it, and it is stuck- of course. It sat for 10 years outside. I have atf/acetone in the cylinders. I guess I'll see if I can get a socket on the crankshaft bolt and see if I can get a wiggle. If I can get any movement at all, I can get it free.

 

[ss55]

I wonder if there is any possibility of replacing the 2010 hydraulic pump with a stronger one?

Most other post 1960 Deere tractors had 2000 PSI closed center hydraulic systems, 73 percent stronger than the 1150 PSI on the 2010. Some Allis-Chalmers tractors had 2500 PSI systems.

If the tractor is stuck after sitting outside for 10 years it could need new sleeves and pistons, price them and a full gasket kit before investing much more, it could over $4,000 in parts plus the cost of labor to overhaul that engine. Do you know the reason it was parked for that long? It may because of other major problems. Unless you are looking for a challenging restoration project, it might be quicker and less expensive to find another running field ready tractor.

 

[Tx Jim]

Most other post 1960 Deere tractors had 2000 PSI closed center hydraulic systems, 73 percent stronger than the 1150 PSI on the 2010. Some Allis-Chalmers tractors had 2500 PSI systems.

Most other post 1960 JD tractors had 2250 psi hyd pressure which could easily be adjusted to a recommended maximum of 2350 psi.