Newly acquired Farmall 200

[jeepguy03]

I just picked up a 1955 Farmall 200.

This tractor has a fast hitch and touch control hydraulics. It is still 6 volt, and all the lights work, but the generator isn't charging. I'm thinking about throwing a set of brushes at the generator for now, but eventually converting to 12v.

1. Any suggestions on mini alternators to use? I've seen a few nice small ones on other Farmalls like Super As but can't seem to find model numbers of them or what to look for.

2. This tractor has clean engine oil, but it is overfilled. From my research it seems the hydraulic pump has a bad seal in the front leaking into the crankcase. Any tips on where to get a good seal, and how much of a pain this job is?

3. In relation to the above, does this mean I should run engine oil in the hydraulic system until I can fix the sharing of fluids to be safe? Was thinking about just running a good 10w30 oil in both.

4. I want to change all the fluids. What coolant is recommended for these, just regular green? Any favorite brands? I use Valvoline Zerex G-05 in my Kubota and a Jeep Wrangler 4.0L I own, but not sure if that is compatible with old Farmalls. What gear oil is recommend for the rear end? I see 80w90 a lot as a recommendation, but do these have yellow metals in the transmission that would be sensitive to a modern GL-5 oil? I have to run GL-4 in my Wrangler's manual transmission for this reason, but wasn't sure on the Farmalls.

5. I have the fast hitch, and would love to get a 3 point adapter to be able to run other attachments like a rake or blade on the back from my other tractor, any recommendations or favorite adapters people use?


Any advice is appreciated, glad to be back behind the wheel of a Farmall.

 

[Red Dave]

Before you buy an alternator, try putting a jumper from the field coil to ground. If that makes it charge, your problem is with the regulator, not the generator.

Also, if it has sat idle for awhile, you may need to polarize the generator to get it to charge.

 

[Jim Becker]

Agree with Red Dave, plus some more. Follow this link to a complete step-by-step for troubleshooting your charging system:
troubleshooting procedure

1. Use the search function on this page for "mini alternator" to find several suggestions. Most will just say something like "mini Denso". Actual model/part numbers will vary by output level, mounting etc. with most usable.
2. IH used a variety of pumps. Some have a lip seal and others an o-ring seal. You may find a part number on the pump and be able to look it up. More likely, you may have to remove it and check. If an o-ring, it may help to use an x-profile o-ring. Whichever you need, auto parts stores will probably be able to supply. The job isn't that big. Remove the manifold (back will need a new gasket, front 2 o-rings) then remove the pump. Pump will have 4 bolts. 2 hold the pump on (the long ones), 2 hold it together (the shorter ones). You have to open the pump to change the seal be sure to put all the internal parts back exactly as they were (There aren't many parts.).
3. Don't put motor oil in the hydraulics. Detergents tend to foam. Multi-weights are even worse. Just fix it and be done.
4. Same story as the Wrangler. Use a GL-4. Some of the newest GL-5 oils may be okey. But the older GL-4/GL-5 oils aren't. Hytran is GL-4 and recommended by CaseIH. Many prefer to use the thicker 80W90.
5. Whatever you can find. I would prefer keeping the Fash-Hitch and plug-in a FH to 3-point adapter. There can be some advantages to a conversion that replaces parts of the Fast-Hitch. Either should work with a rake/blade.

 

[560Dennis]

Put sae 90 gl1 gear lube in your differential. Mineral oil