10SI POSITIVE ground internal schematic?

JMOR

Well-known Member
Location
TX
Does anyone have or know how to draw a 10SI POSITIVE ground internal schematic? I started to modify a normal neg gnd schematic, but stopped short , as I realized that I don't have enough information to complete it. Thanks in advance.
 
Does anyone have or know how to draw a 10SI POSITIVE ground internal schematic? I started to modify a normal neg gnd schematic, but stopped short , as I realized that I don't have enough information to complete it. Thanks in advance.
Don't have one, but all you would have to do is reverse the polarity of all the diodes in the rectifier, diode trio, and regulator, including the zener, and change the npn transistors to pnp. The internal components of the regulator are inaccessible anyway and schematics that explain how the alternator functions vary. Also 4 Ohms is a bit high for a typical 10SI rotor, field current is 4-5 amps normally. No wiring changes needed.
 

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I think Dean covered it pretty accurate. Only thing to add is the res values for R1 and R4 would need to be reversed. (use R1 value in R4, and R4 value in R1). If C1 is electrolytic, can maybe leave as is, if it's tantalum, flip it over. The smoothing cap down by the rotor, might want to move it to the other group of flipped diodes so it's smooths the switchover. Might be able to leave it where it is and reverse it.
 
Does anyone have or know how to draw a 10SI POSITIVE ground internal schematic? I started to modify a normal neg gnd schematic, but stopped short , as I realized that I don't have enough information to complete it. Thanks in advance.
Jesse's toying with you guys, a bit.

All that's needed is a reversed polarity rectifier bridge and some creative wiring.
 
Jesse's toying with you guys, a bit.

All that's needed is a reversed polarity rectifier bridge and some creative wiring.
If one were to disregard the internal parts of the regulator and just assume that what is inside the dotted line was a 1wire (self exciting ) regulator, it would work as drawn. However the 40 Ohm resistor should probably be removed in any case as Its function is to provide a ground path for the "idiot light" if so equipped in the particular application. in the case of a missing power source at pin 2 or an open in the field circuit. That resistor is not present in alternators intended for use in applications without an idiot light. If it were to be used for excitation current it would cause excessive battery drain when the engine was not running.
 
Technocrats try to make things too complex. Think simple folks! Just a couple of bits of wood/plastic/whatever insulator in mounts and tie standard one wire alt output to chassis ground (+) and tie alt housing to battery negative. DONE!
 
Technocrats try to make things too complex. Think simple folks! Just a couple of bits of wood/plastic/whatever insulator in mounts and tie standard one wire alt output to chassis ground (+) and tie alt housing to battery negative. DONE!
Other than having a totally hot housing ready to short to "ground" every spark plug wrench ever made. Sure. Jim
 
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