3020 gas ignition question

[jdaxle]

hello all, got my dads old 3020 running after i put on a 2nd hydraulic remote. hasnt been running good for a couple years now. i rewired the tractor minus the lights. has a new ignition switch with internal resister, 6v coil, points and condenser from roberts. it had a marvel schleber on it. i just put a zenith on it and rebuilt it with a comprehensive kit. my question is that after setting dwell to 31 degrees, after i remove the dwell meter it cuts out and either wants to die or just stalls. the ignition circuit has 2.2 ohms from the switch. ive not seen this before. coil b plus side is wired to distributer, tractor is wired positive ground. any one seen this before. thanks

 

[teddy52food]

I am guessing the condenser is bad & your meter when it is hooked up is doing the job of a condenser???

 

[Janicholson]

hello all, got my dads old 3020 running after i put on a 2nd hydraulic remote. hasnt been running good for a couple years now. i rewired the tractor minus the lights. has a new ignition switch with internal resister, 6v coil, points and condenser from roberts. it had a marvel schleber on it. i just put a zenith on it and rebuilt it with a comprehensive kit. my question is that after setting dwell to 31 degrees, after i remove the dwell meter it cuts out and either wants to die or just stalls. the ignition circuit has 2.2 ohms from the switch. ive not seen this before. coil b plus side is wired to distributer, tractor is wired positive ground. any one seen this before. thanks

The voltage at the coil is more important than the ohms. The ohms across the coil (disconnected is usually about 1.2 to 1.5 ohms. Voltage at the coil input (ignition on and engine not running points closed) should be about 6 volts. Jim

 

[wore out]

I am guessing the condenser is bad & your meter when it is hooked up is doing the job of a condenser???

I agree with t5f, it sounds like a condenser issue. Is the lead properly connected and the body well attached/grounded to the breaker plate?

 

[jdaxle]

thanks for the replies guys. been so long since i bought the points and condenser that i thought i had already put them on. turns out, i did not. the parts from roberts carburetor worked very well. i guess the dwell meter was helping the old set of points out. Also was not sure that i had the correct coil on there[6v], but like i said it runs great now. voltage at coil with key on and points closed was about 5v. On another note, is the voltage of the coil supposed to match close to the actual voltage going though the resister with points closed? if so, is a 12v coil supposed to be wired without a resister on a 12v system? never really understood that. I know they will get hot if the voltage is to high. the old delco coil was a 12v and the old ign switch had the resister too. my 3020 is an early one. i think the newer 3020's used a resister wire. thanks

 

[Janicholson]

No the coil rated at 6v will show 12+ volts points open and ignition on, not running. The resistor needs to be loaded with the circuit to show actual voltage. Jim

 

[ss55]

thanks for the replies guys. been so long since i bought the points and condenser that i thought i had already put them on. turns out, i did not. the parts from roberts carburetor worked very well. i guess the dwell meter was helping the old set of points out. Also was not sure that i had the correct coil on there[6v], but like i said it runs great now. voltage at coil with key on and points closed was about 5v. On another note, is the voltage of the coil supposed to match close to the actual voltage going though the resister with points closed? if so, is a 12v coil supposed to be wired without a resister on a 12v system? never really understood that. I know they will get hot if the voltage is to high. the old delco coil was a 12v and the old ign switch had the resister too. my 3020 is an early one. i think the newer 3020's used a resister wire. thanks

I would leave it as-is, maybe clean the connections to raise the 5 volts at the coil to 6.

Those gas Deere used a 6 volt (1.5 Ohm ) coil with 12 volts only applied when starting to get a hotter spark when the starter is engaged ( time of the highest current draw and lowest battery voltage ). An addition 1.5 Ohm resistor is near the ignition switch reduce coil voltage to 6 volts during normal operation.

 

[used red MN]

reply removed

 

[wore out]

I would leave it as-is, maybe clean the connections to raise the 5 volts at the coil to 6.

Those gas Deere used a 6 volt (1.5 Ohm ) coil with 12 volts only applied when starting to get a hotter spark when the starter is engaged ( time of the highest current draw and lowest battery voltage ). An addition 1.5 Ohm resistor is near the ignition switch reduce coil voltage to 6 volts during normal operation.

In a situation like that it's good to check the primary CURRENT, with a fully- charged battery and the points closed you want to see 3.5 to 4 or possibly up to 4.5 Amps if there's a good match between the coil and primary resistor.