Well, that time of year again, and er umm the darned heater on this tractor seems to have burned out. I checked it with my multi-meter on the OHM setting to see if I could complete a circuit, now I forget the reading (digital) but when you touch the probes together it beeps, but neither the new one or the suspect one does that, though the new one reads .25 or something, don't recall what the old one read. Seems this is how I was told you can test a hot water heater element, aren't they kinda the same ?
Ok, well maybe I'll make it more complicated than it is, but I don't want to burn out the new one, old one was about 1 year old, one season of use.
Seems that I installed it correctly, it worked fine, now orientated as if you sat in the seat, lower radiator hose(on right) with element inside it pointing to the water pump/block etc. I am however, unsure which way coolant flows, but do know you must get the air out and get that thermostat open, or that element will fail if it is not immersed in coolant. I did notice that the low side (right side of heater to radiator lower tank) of the heater at the clamp where the hose was cut did leak a drop or 2, not sure, maybe it drained down low enough and the heater came on dry ? Level in the upper tank was ok, could not see fins, room for expansion etc. Tank does pressurize when it gets warm.
Not sure if the temperature gauge works, the needle has not moved in some time, did appear to work not that long ago, though it is on manure spreader detail, not really going to heat up, and in this weather, I assume I will have to put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to get it to do so, I want to make sure that the thermostat opens and the air forces its way to the upper tank where it can be released, now I suppose I can loosen the upper clamp to make sure there is coolant at the element before it gets plugged in, check to see if coolant leaks out, then re-tighten. I have 120 volts at the end of 100'-" 12 ga. lead which is new, and it is set to go on by timer, usually 4 hours, is that too long for these ? I am told not to let em run continuous, well at 600 watts, no need to invest in the power company. It's a Katz, by Starr Mfg.
Kind of a conundrum here as I don't work there on weekends and I need this heater to work so the other person there has no issue starting it. It will start in the cold, just a little sluggish but will fire up in the 20's with no aid so I assume the motor has good compression still, must be around 4000 hours, meter still works. I think this had a manifold heater on it once, not anymore, have to wonder if that would be better to have. Yesterday it took one small dose of ether, today was much colder, same thing, then stalled, same small amount, started and ran. I do not like using starting fluid, even with upper cylinder lubricant, I certainly do not want the help using it, though I realize, a small dose would not wash the cylinders, better to leave that as a last resort for obvious reasons.
Would be nice to know which way coolant flows, once the thermostat opens, I should see some kind of flow in the upper radiator tank correct ? I did notice that the upper hose was warm after spreading 1 load, the left of heater section of hose was warm but the bottom side was cold, so I am, wondering if the cooled coolant comes up from the bottom, but might not be circulating ? T-stat stuck closed it would have to overheat or would it in cold temps, assuming it could be stuck open, that temp gauge needle would not move much if at all, like what I see now.
Well this 3600 is not in the best of shape, I like the tractor, and I hope to get to more repairs, leading to questions and some discussion here, but one thing at a time. Do appreciate any thoughts on the subject
!
Ok, well maybe I'll make it more complicated than it is, but I don't want to burn out the new one, old one was about 1 year old, one season of use.
Seems that I installed it correctly, it worked fine, now orientated as if you sat in the seat, lower radiator hose(on right) with element inside it pointing to the water pump/block etc. I am however, unsure which way coolant flows, but do know you must get the air out and get that thermostat open, or that element will fail if it is not immersed in coolant. I did notice that the low side (right side of heater to radiator lower tank) of the heater at the clamp where the hose was cut did leak a drop or 2, not sure, maybe it drained down low enough and the heater came on dry ? Level in the upper tank was ok, could not see fins, room for expansion etc. Tank does pressurize when it gets warm.
Not sure if the temperature gauge works, the needle has not moved in some time, did appear to work not that long ago, though it is on manure spreader detail, not really going to heat up, and in this weather, I assume I will have to put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to get it to do so, I want to make sure that the thermostat opens and the air forces its way to the upper tank where it can be released, now I suppose I can loosen the upper clamp to make sure there is coolant at the element before it gets plugged in, check to see if coolant leaks out, then re-tighten. I have 120 volts at the end of 100'-" 12 ga. lead which is new, and it is set to go on by timer, usually 4 hours, is that too long for these ? I am told not to let em run continuous, well at 600 watts, no need to invest in the power company. It's a Katz, by Starr Mfg.
Kind of a conundrum here as I don't work there on weekends and I need this heater to work so the other person there has no issue starting it. It will start in the cold, just a little sluggish but will fire up in the 20's with no aid so I assume the motor has good compression still, must be around 4000 hours, meter still works. I think this had a manifold heater on it once, not anymore, have to wonder if that would be better to have. Yesterday it took one small dose of ether, today was much colder, same thing, then stalled, same small amount, started and ran. I do not like using starting fluid, even with upper cylinder lubricant, I certainly do not want the help using it, though I realize, a small dose would not wash the cylinders, better to leave that as a last resort for obvious reasons.
Would be nice to know which way coolant flows, once the thermostat opens, I should see some kind of flow in the upper radiator tank correct ? I did notice that the upper hose was warm after spreading 1 load, the left of heater section of hose was warm but the bottom side was cold, so I am, wondering if the cooled coolant comes up from the bottom, but might not be circulating ? T-stat stuck closed it would have to overheat or would it in cold temps, assuming it could be stuck open, that temp gauge needle would not move much if at all, like what I see now.
Well this 3600 is not in the best of shape, I like the tractor, and I hope to get to more repairs, leading to questions and some discussion here, but one thing at a time. Do appreciate any thoughts on the subject
!
